crwdns2933803:04crwdne2933803:0
crwdns2933797:0Kristen Gismondicrwdnd2933797:0crwdne2933797:0
crwdns2936043:0crwdne2936043:0 crwdns2933505:0crwdne2933505:0 Kristen Gismondi
- crwdns2933769:0crwdne2933769:0
- crwdns2933771:0crwdne2933771:0
- crwdns2933801:0crwdne2933801:0
crwdns2933807:0crwdne2933807:0
| [* black] Prepare the opening for the new piece: pull nails and remove any screws on the underside of the rafters to ensure a flat mounting, and use the 6" taping knife to skim away a swath of the popcorn texture along the edges of the undamaged ceiling surrounding the opening. Pic 1. | |
| - | [* black] Stabilize the sections of undamaged ceiling around the opening with drywall screws placed a little back from the edge |
| + | [* black] Stabilize the sections of undamaged ceiling around the opening with drywall screws placed a little back from the edge—this helps to avoid crumbling or buckling of your nice, clean-cut edge. Pic 2. |
| [* icon_note] Use enough pressure when driving screws so that the screw heads imbed ++slightly ++into the wallboard surface. | |
| [* icon_note] Center rafter screws go in ++straight++. | |
| [* black] Hold the screw gun at a slight angle and drive screws into the side rafters, starting the screws a little back from the edge as before. Pic 3. | |
| - | [* icon_note] Screws in side rafters are ++angled ++because you are fastening to half a rafter |
| + | [* icon_note] Screws in side rafters are ++angled ++because you are fastening to half a rafter—a straight-in screw may miss the rafter altogether. |
| [* icon_note] If the opening needs insulation replaced, do it now. |