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If the volume control wheel is not rotating properly or adjusting the volume, follow this guide to access and replace the wheel mechanism.
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Lift the edge of the cushion and pull out slightly.
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Work your way around the cushion until it comes off completely.
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Repeat for the other cushion.
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Remove the three 5mm screws with a Phillips #0 driver head on the headphone with the microphone.
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Lift the speaker off the headset to expose the circuit board.
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Remove the three 5mm screws using a Phillips #0 driver head.
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Lift the circuit board out of the plastic housing.
I am worried about damaging the board while lifting the board out, there is quite some resistance, do I apply more pressure?
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Remove the 5mm screw using a Phillips #000 driver head.
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Pull on the wheel to remove it from the circuit board.
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Flip over the circuit board and desolder the five pins to remove the wheel mechanism from the circuit board.
I need to replace the volume component, where did you find it, what is it called, what is it’s part number? Please share details about the part itself.
exactly as @kelly said, I want the part number of the replacement potentiometer?
Same do you have the reference ? help :)
I found the following potentiometers that look the same, but I don’t know the resistance. Mine had a “102B” stamped on top of it, but I’m not sure how helpful that is. https://tech.alpsalpine.com/prod/e/html/...
Hi Andrew, thanks for the link to a potential supplier for the potentiometer :-) Did you have any success in finding the specific part number? Cheers, Simon
did the same thing with a arctis 7, only it was the game-chat volume mixer on the right ear and the screw was loose so the wheel was wiggling around making an annoying noise. all of the arctis headsets are structured very similarly. this tutorial is not difficult like the rating says, as long as you have a replacement wheel if you need one, and the right screwdrivers, this takes a maximum of 10 minutes. the arctis sets are very easy to disassemble, and i appreciate Steelseries for making it that way.
Hi!
Firstly, thank you for this guide - very well presented; and this forum thread on this issue is the by far the best I’ve found in my online research.
Secondly, did anyone find/identify the correct part number for the potentiometer?
Thanks also for the suggestions for where a new potentiometer can be purchased.
Cheers, Simon
Just guessing but I think the “102” on the potentiometer means its a 1000 ohms. E.g. the 2 equals an additional 2 zeros. When looking at pots that have “103” they appear to be 10000 ohm pots. This being said i am yet to find one of the right package type in 1000 ohms :)
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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What is the part number of the replacement potentiometer?
What is the part/model number of the potentiometer? I want to replace mine since it’s having issues.
For anyone having static noise or discontinuity when you’re moving the volume wheel, it might be due to oxidation inside the potentiometer.
I managed to fix mine with some electrical contact cleaner (such as DeOxit, I used something available locally though). First make sure your headphones are turned off!
What you can do is, get a cleaner with a fine tip nozzle and point it at the sides of the potentiometer (see step 7 pic 2) that is the joint between the metal and the top plastic. Once that is done, out on the scroll wheel and move it around to make sure the solution spreads. Then take off the scroll wheel again (and keep it somewhere safe!), let everything completely dry up.
Once it’s dry you can put everything back together again, or if there’s some residue on the PCB, you can clean it up using some 90% isopropyl alcohol. Once you make sure that everything is completely dry you can try turning it on again and check if your problem has been fixed.
Wantei -
For anybody who did this, I’m curious about the wheel. From the pictures it seems that the inside of the wheel is some rigid plastic, and it locks onto the potentiometer with those straights sides. The outside of the wheel seems like some kind of rubber enclosing the inner wheel. On my headset, I keep accidentally forcing the wheel when handling the headset, and at one point I turned the wheel ‘up’ beyond its max position. Since I see here that the inner plastic locks onto the potentiometer, I don’t think I managed to turn that (since it would probably break the thing), and instead I turned the outer flexible rubber around the inner rigid plastic. I’m a little apprehensive about this, it really doesn’t inspire high build quality because of this, I’m afraid I can accidentally break it. So what do you guys think about simply setting the potentiometer to the max position, and removing the wheel altogether. Do you think this poses a risk, leaving that wheel hole empty like that?
I was able to follow the instructions and used it to tighten the potentiometer as it was loose. The circuit board is slightly a pain to get out and in.
Has anyone tried to use this guide to remove the circuit board of an arctis pro wireless? I’ve opened mine up and it seems there’s one less screw. It seems pretty stuck in there. I tried pushing in on the volume wheel but that doesn’t seem to work.
Does anyone know what the replacement potentiometer part number is?
I do not believe that my Arctis 7 uses Phillips #0 it looks to be some kind of tamper proof start bit, do you know what kind that would be?
Jerrett Smith - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0