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The upper case assembly includes the keyboard. Use this guide to replace the entire case/keyboard assembly as a single unit.
To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable. These accessories are not included with your MacBook, so make sure you have them ready before you begin.
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Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:
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Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.
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Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.
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While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.
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Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.
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If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.
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If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
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Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.
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Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.
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Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
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Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
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Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.
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Carefully turn the MacBook over, so that the lower case lays flat.
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Raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.
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Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.
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Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.
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Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:
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1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw
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3.5 mm T5 Torx screw
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.
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Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.
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Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.
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If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.
I'm in trouble, pulling the tape I took off the flap, what can I do?
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.
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Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.
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Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.
I should have used a hair dryer to warm up the glue because the black paint stuck to the board and It exposed a patch of the cable. It might be ok.
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Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
A step was skipped. You have to flip up the metal locking tab on the socket before the cable can be removed. See the photo.
And be careful when re-inserting the connector. One end of the two indentations got a little bent (I did not notice) which resulted in a black screen when powering up. I used a heat gun (low setting) to separate the cable from the labtop housing. When re-assembling, first insert the connector (after closing the metal flap as instructed), verify that it’s properly seated, then re-attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing. In the first try, I first re-attached the cable to the housing, then tried to insert the cable connected into the metal socket. Because of a lack of slack, the cable connector at one end got bent slightly. After identifying the problem, I had to straighten it/unbend out using my fingers. Hence it is easier to insert the connector first, then attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing.
Black screen upon reboot:
Inserting the display ribbon cable into it’s contact without closing the metal flap before reassembly will result in a black screen.
I live in a colder climate (and it's winter now) - a hair dryer was absolutely necessary to get this cable loose.
The flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly. Carefully line up the cable with the gold contacts facing down, and gently slide it into the connector.
OK, when I read those directions, I did it wrong. I followed the instructions and kept the flap closed when the cable was reinserted during reassembly. Of course I got a blank screen. It should read the flap must be closed AFTER the cable is reinserted during reassembly.
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Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.
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Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.
Does unplugging the "dual microphone assembly ribbon cable" affect anything other than the microphones? The headphone jack is separate, for example, right?
Right. We haven't tested it, but unplugging that cable shouldn't affect anything other than the microphones. You can see the microphone assembly in this guide.
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Use tweezers to pull the microphone assembly ribbon cable free of its connector.
I broke the microphone assembly ribbon cable, from step twenty five. Is there anyway to fix this, soldering kit, or can I order a new cable online?
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Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the audio jack board to the case.
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Remove the audio jack board.
On your way back during reassembly, as long as you are VERY careful with the ribbon once you do it, it is easier to reattach the ribbon in the connector before reseating the audio jack board.
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Prepare an iOpener and apply heat to the upper case directly behind the microphone assembly.
If you are replacing the case upper case check to see if your replacement case has a microphone assembly included. If it does you can skip 28-30
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Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case.
very difficult to remove, even with heat. Can be purchased on eBay for ~ $10
The upper case sold by iFixit comes with the dual mic
impossible to remove without damaging the mic. I strongly suggest to remove the screw hodling the keyboard before removing and installing the new mic
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Remove the dual microphone assembly.
During reassembly, do you need to apply adhesive to the microphone assembly to glue it back to the case? What adhesive is the best to use?
Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.
So this was very hard to take off. I probably didn’t allow enough time for the adhesive to heat up and loosen. But I noticed that my new upper case assembly already came with a new dual microphone assembly attached. I’m assuming that all new upper assemplies will come with a microphone preinstalled. If that’s the case this part is not necessary and can be skipped in my opinion.
it is hard to install the new one, but not impossible. I strongly recommend to peel the adhesive and try to insert the dual mic assebly with actual mic holes facing up. Once inside push with some tweezers to final position. Make sure you remove the blck screw holding the keyboard, it will make iy a bit easier
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Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable assembly.
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Remove the single 4.3 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the USB-C port ribbon cable.
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Unfold the USB-C port ribbon cable until it lays flat, allowing access to the bracket beneath.
On the 2016 model the USB-C is actually one whole part and can be removed once the display is removed, unfortuanatelly.
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Lift and remove the metal bracket securing the USB-C port ribbon cable connector.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port ribbon cable by prying the connector straight up.
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Pry from the side nearest the back edge of the MacBook.
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Remove the ribbon cable.
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Fully open the display.
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Set the MacBook down on its right edge with the display facing away from you, as shown.
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Remove the four 4.8 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display hinges.
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Holding the display assembly with one hand and the upper case with the other, push them together slightly to move the hinges out of their recesses in the the upper case.
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Push the upper case forward while pulling back gently on the display.
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Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.
There is a small metal part that falls off once the display cable screws are removed and you try to separate the display from the top cover. Just make sure you put it back correctly.
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Remove the single 2.9 mm T3 Torx screw securing the USB-C port to the upper case.
this was a 00 philips on my 1.1ghz 2015 gold macbook.
I was going to write the same thing…it is a Phillips screw on my 2015 MacBook.
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Slide the USB-C port out of its recess in the upper case, and remove the USB-C port.
Be careful not to lose the rubber grommet!
To add to Jon's note about the rubber grommet, alse make sure there is only one rubber grommet if you're using a second hand replacement top assembly.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector on the trackpad.
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Using a spudger, flip open the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Gently pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its slot in the frame.
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Remove the five 2.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the trackpad to the case.
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Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Gently peel the keyboard ribbon cable up from the case, and remove the cable.
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The upper case remains.
Great guide!!! Thank you!!! It is not very difficult to replace the keyboard / top cover. However, for some reason the computer didn’t immediately started, I had to reset and connect to power supply and then it started and works fine.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.
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please where do i have to put the mushrooms screws? 923-01012
If you look closely at this image in Step 36 you can see them pretty clearly.
I changed the keyboard itself; you follow the instructions to step 35 (skipping 29 to 30, microphone removal) and then remove the keyboard ribbon cable connector to the trackpad (step 45). Maybe the most complicated step is ungluing the black backing stuck to the back of the keyboard and then there are almost a hundred tiny screws holding the keyboard to the frame, mostly only an eye strain. Got the keyboard through ebay (spanish keyboard layout).
I replaced my keyboard and it won’t turn on.
