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Use this guide to replace your Retina MacBook's lower case assembly together with the battery as a single unit. Follow this guide if you’d like to separate the battery from the case.
To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable. These accessories are not included with your MacBook, so make sure you have them ready before you begin.
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Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:
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Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.
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Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.
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While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.
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Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.
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If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.
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If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
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Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.
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Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
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Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
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Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.
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Carefully turn the MacBook over, so that the lower case lays flat.
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Raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.
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Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.
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Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.
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Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:
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1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw
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3.5 mm T5 Torx screw
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.
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Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.
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Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.
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If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.
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Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.
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Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.
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Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
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Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.
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Use tweezers to peel up the tape covering the two ZIF connectors—one for the right speaker cable, and one for the audio jack board cable.
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Use the point of a spudger to flip up both ZIF connector retaining flaps.
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Carefully pull straight back on the two pieces of tape you just peeled up to disconnect the two ribbon cables.
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Use the point of a spudger to peel up the foam pad covering the two antenna connectors.
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Insert one arm of your angled tweezers under the metal neck of the first antenna connector and pry up to disconnect it.
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Pry up the second antenna connector to disconnect it.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the left speaker cable connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
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Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
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Disconnect the trackpad cable from the logic board by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
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Remove the single 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw securing the logic board to the lower case.
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Flip up the front edge of the logic board.
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Lift and detach the EMI tape securing the logic board to the lower case.
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Using tweezers, remove the foam pad covering the screw on the left side of the right speaker.
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Remove the two 4.1 mm T3 Torx screws securing the right speaker.
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Using tweezers, carefully peel up the tape securing the right antenna cable to the lower case.
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Prepare an iOpener and heat the lower case directly beneath the right speaker for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften up the adhesive securing the speaker.
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Use a plastic opening tool to pry under the top edge of the right speaker, and separate it from the lower case.
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Using tweezers, remove the foam pad covering the screw on the right side of the left speaker.
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Remove the two 4.1 mm T3 Torx screws securing the left speaker to the lower case.
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Prepare an iOpener and heat the lower case directly beneath the left speaker, in order to soften up the adhesive securing the speaker.
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Use a plastic opening tool to pry under the top edge of the left speaker, and separate it from the lower case.
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Carefully peel away the audio board ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the lower case.
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Remove the audio board ribbon cable.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.
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Nice guide and though indeed not easy, not difficult if you're careful... note I invested in the set of iFixit tools and having those really is a good investment... given they saved me a Macbook that the repair shop said would cost 2000Eur to repair (and would give me 200Eur as a scrap price)... found the bottom case/battery set on eBay for 150... did the guide, and back in business :)
Great guide. Saved a big bill for a MacBook dropped in water. Battery needed replacing. Worked perfect.
Does anyone know the correct orientation of that touchpad cable?
