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Follow this guide to replace the right joystick in your Nintendo Switch Lite. Replacing the joystick will fix the notorious “Joy-Con drift” issue.

Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.

    • Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

  1. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the back panel: Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:

    • Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device

    • Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device

  2. Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device. Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
    • Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

    • Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.

    • Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

  3. Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device. Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.
    • Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

  4. Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device. Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
    • Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

    • Twist the opening tool to release the clips.

    • Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

  5. Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device. Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.
    • Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

  6. Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips. Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.
    • Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

  7. Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book. Remove the back panel. Remove the back panel.
    • Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.

    • Remove the back panel.

  8. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following four screws:
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following four screws:

    • Three 3.1 mm screws

    • One 4.5 mm screw

    There are four screws instead of three mentioned

    Khurram Chaudry - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  9. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste. Remove the shield plate.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

  10. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

  11. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

    I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on

    User Service - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  12. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.

    Craig Osman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-

    Justin Kerr - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?

    Jannalyzer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.

    Adam O'Camb -

  13. Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    When reassembling, the foam may fold down between the fan and heatsink, blocking airflow. Gently lift the foam back up on top of the fan. The adhesive film should hold the foam together.

    Kean Stump - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is removing the heat sink absolutely necessary?

    Clark Aulden - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It’s not necessary, but it makes it much easier to remove and replace the game card reader, since the heat sink partially covers the connector.

    Craig Lloyd -

    Not really…….. I never remove it. It slides out quite easily once disconnected.

    Alan Sears - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  14. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

  15. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

  16. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.

  17. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

  18. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector. Remove the game card reader and headphone jack. Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.

    • Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

  19. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

    I think a whole step to remove the game card reader and speaker jack was skipped here…

    ConfusedAzn Random - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  20. Remove the right trigger button assembly. Remove the right trigger button assembly.
    • Remove the right trigger button assembly.

  21. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.

  22. Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard. Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable. Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

  23. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

  24. Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

    There’s a step missing after this to remove the screws that hold the orange game cartridge slot. Those 7 screws have to be undone and the ribbon unclipped first before moving on to the next step.

    Heather Thrasher - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  25. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.

  26. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  27. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

  28. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  29. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.

  30. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  31. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:

    • Three 3.1 mm screws

    • Three 4.5 mm screws

  32. Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess. Remove the motherboard assembly. Remove the motherboard assembly.
    • Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.

    • Remove the motherboard assembly.

  33. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

  34. Use your fingers to remove the joystick. There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.
    • Use your fingers to remove the joystick.

    • There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

    Where are parts for the right joystick?

    John - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.

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Craig Lloyd

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iFixit crwdns2886886:0iFixitcrwdne2886886:0

Community

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crwdns2892924:06crwdne2892924:0

Not for the faint of heart and will take much longer than the indicated time. In the end bring it to a professional, as the battery does NOT come off as indicated. I now have an even more expensive repair as the battery socket came off the motherboard.

Craig Osman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

This looked a bit daunting at first, but as you start going you get into a flow and as long as you follow the instructions slowly and carefully you shouldnt have a problem. I would say i finished in the recommended time.

Dom Swooz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Great guide - completed with no issues easily within the recommended time.

Abelard Snazz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I did not need to take out the heat sink. It’s a bit difficult. I used this guide and another to replace both buttons.

henreeg - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Minor orange juice spill on the rights side, cleaned it quick but the home button and joy stick were a little sticky.

Thank god this guide was so clear, made it easy to check the board for stains and clean up the buttons.

Daniel Peregrym - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I had to replace my right Joy Stick and it went extremely smooth with these instructions.

Jimmy Bailey - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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