crwdns2894164:0crwdne2894164:0

crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0

Use this guide to replace the entire display assembly on your MacBook Pro, in order to fix a cracked or faulty screen. This assembly also includes the integrated ribbon cables that are known to fail as part of the “FlexGate” defect, so replacing it will also resolve the “stage lights” effect and other issues resulting from ribbon cable damage.

For your safety, discharge your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% before you begin. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.

  1. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: step 1, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: step 1, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: step 1, image 3 of 3
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you begin. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Four 4.7 mm screws

    • Two 6.6 mm screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    These screws are TINY and different lengths. I highly recommend purchasing the recommended magnetic project mat.

    Steve - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    So this need to replace each and every screw in its exact former position explains exactly the excruciating difficulty I am having in getting the set of four shorter screws screws back in after everything else having gone successfully. Wanna scream at the top of my lungs. Maybe this point needed to be made in all ALL CAPS and BOLD for me. So can I still just start over trying each screw in each hole or have I messed up the threads in trying to screw in screws mismatched to their holes?

    hatuxka - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The front screws are at a slight angle, pay attention when putting them back!

    Cristian Caprar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did not have the magnetic project mat, but instead I stuck loops of blue painter's tape on the table, wrote the step number on them in sharpie, and stuck the screws/covers for the corresponding step on them.

    dunhamsteve - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If the battery you are replacing is swollen and you do not know it is - swollen, Watch out![br]

    You may strip threads on some of the screws. Rotate the unscrewing as in a clockwise - counterclockwise manner if some of them start to feel tight.

    G Sena - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Lift up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.

    You can probably just skip to step 6 if battery is swollen. These steps will likely be taken care of for you.

    G Sena - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip.

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) just enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.

    • Two additional hidden clips near the middle of the cover may pop free at this point, if they haven't already.

    • Don't lift very far and don't try to remove the lower case yet.

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    This step drew blood. Darn you Apple!

    Kyle B - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.

    Athanassios Diacakis - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.

    Adrian Brown - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!

    wmetzgerusa - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.

    tonygreenfield - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.

    stevanuscg - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.

    Indawg Wetrust - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks Indawg Wetrust, Made it very easy!

    Louis C - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    They, iFixit, are not kidding. Quite a bit of force needed.

    Norm Hils - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This step requires a lot of force to slide the back cover away. Make sure you get a good grip of the mac body and of the back panel.

    Cristian Caprar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips. You should feel and hear them click into place.

    I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross

    Ross Elkins - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Battery Connector: step 9, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Battery Connector: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Peel up and remove the large rectangular battery board cover, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.

    • If the cover doesn't seat securely during reassembly, try rotating it 180 degrees. It must be oriented correctly in order for the adhesive pads underneath to contact the board screws.

    What is the though behind this step? I have replace my trackpad before, and I did not do this step. At the time, there was no guide. As a result, I’m wondering how this changes/or if it is necessary for the repair process.

    Anthony Bleyer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It’s necessary in order to disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the battery before making repairs.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I found my one of my fan making some noise, when open the bottom of my Mac I see this piece floating over the fan. Trying to put it back where it goes but don’t seem to stick anymore and move around. Does this piece is really necessary or I can simply remove it or order a new one from you?

    Alexandre Bolduc - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It should be pretty easy to reattach. Put a dab of rubber cement or a bit of double-sided tape on top of each of the screws underneath the cover, press the cover down, and close up your MacBook. It should stay put. Don’t use superglue or anything else that will harden over the screw heads and make it impossible to fit a driver in there later.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.

    scoop scoop - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My Macbook doesn’t appear to even have this piece.

    Nate Bartlett - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This cover is not attached to anything critical underneath, so do not be afraid that you can break anything like pulling anything from the mainboard. Just pull it out. To reattach, I removed the old double side adhesive tape and replaced with fresh one.

    Cristian Caprar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Peel back the tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape may not detach completely; just peel it back enough to access the connector.

    Wow, mine peeled up from the board. Now I have some board level soldering. Any part number on the connector for this cable on the board.

    Mark Mata - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I second that; does anybody know where this battery board data cable connector can be purchased?

    Tim - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The replacement battery did not come with the “tape” in this cable so it was very difficult to reinsert the cable into the zif socket. Now I can’t get the replacement battery to charge.

    J D - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I have the same issue, My battery is not charging. Did you figure out how to get your battery to charge?

    Jeremy Smith -

    In my case, the original replacement was faulty. iFixIt sent an RMA without hesitation, and I am happy to report that the new one works fine. But also recheck this step and steps 13/14.

    J D -

    Note that the tape covering that comes on the OEM battery is not included in the battery sent from iFixIt. I removed it from the old and attached it to the new, but it does not “re-stick” very well, so it’s rather difficult to re-insert. Be careful, the ribbon is fragile.

    J D - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross

    Ross Elkins - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    REALLY important. You need to really pull this back in snug for things to work when you reassemble.

    Michael Stelzner - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I didn’t seem to have any tape covering it, I just proceeded to the next step

    Nathan Skene - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My battery board connecter is broken. Let me know where can I get these cables.?

    Lalitha Prasad - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I recommend to just lift a little the right end (end of the cable side), then keep the socket in place with a spudger while removing this adhesive tape, to avoid any accident like ripping off your socket. With a little care, it is safe and easy to remove completely.

    Cristian Caprar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

    Mein Sicherungsbügel ist abgebrochen, oder zumindest nicht mehr auf dem ZIF-Stecker. Ist dieser Sicherungsbügel sehr wichtig, oder kann ich das Kabel dennoch zurück stecken?

    Fabio Jock - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hallo Fabio, wahrscheinlich wird das Kabel ohne den Bügel nicht mehr halten. Das Zurückstecken geht, aber es bleibt nur sehr fragil drin.

    Fabian Neidhardt -

    Sie sollten in der Lage sein, das Kabel wieder anzuschließen und mit einem guten Klebeband abzudichten.

    mark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.

    Ian Simmons - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    lock flap broke when I was about to close it, is there any way to fix it? The computer can't find the battery

    Gabriel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had no issue here but I recommend to use a second spudger to keep the rest of the socket in place while GENTLY lifting the lock. It should lift without effort.

    Cristian Caprar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When putting it back, be careful, there might be a little piece of transparent adhesive foil on top of the socket, gently lift it up on the side of the cable. The cable should slide in easily, but do not force it. About 0.5mm of the cable contacts will be VISIBLE on the left side, when the cable is fully it, do not force it more than that.

    Cristian Caprar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

    If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?

    Jose Lopez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.

    Mark Mata - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.

    Charles Braxton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/

    Sebastian Fritsch - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I couldn‘t find the fpc 6 pin connector with 0,5 mm grid. However I managed to connect the flex cable directly on the mother board with 0,3 mm isolation filament! It was tough but I‘m so happy that it works again :)

    Sebastian Fritsch - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Would you be able to give a little instruction on how you were able to make this work? I’m super curious and need a solution to the same issue.

    Tim -

    Anybody know where this connected can be purchased? Mine completely snapped to pieces the moment I touched it.

    Tim - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Surprised by the tolerance of this little connector to my mistake of not flipping up the not very noticeable clamping element on side opposite to where the contact tip is inserted. The contact tip pulled right out without having done that. Saw in a video I should have done that before pulling the contact tip out. Remembered when reinstalling it.

    hatuxka - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The cable is stuck on the board underneath with adhesive, so it is best to first work it a little from left under (as the picture is oriented) in order to break the adhesive, and then pull it sideways. At all times, I kept the socket safe with a spudger to avoid ripping it off the board. The cable will come out with a little effort. Remember, it is the socket you need to take care of, not the cable (the cable will be thrown away with the old battery).

    Cristian Caprar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had issues in reassembly - the lever for the ZIF socket was missing. I think it came off with the tape. I found the lever, but it was way too small for me to reattach (I couldn't hold it well enough with the tweezers and wasn't sure where the hinge pins went).

    The computer did not recognize the battery or recognized it with errors (if I got the cable just right) without the lever.

    My solution was to cut a tiny bit of electrical tape and put it on the back of the ribbon cable to make it thicker. This gave it enough traction to stay in the socket and pushed the ribbon onto the contacts.

    dunhamsteve - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 2
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

    It was actually T6 in my case

    Fedor Pudeyan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    I tossed a piece of tape on the connector just to be safe.

    Kyle B - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    wondering if i didn’t heed this warning close enough. mac not powering on. only black screen with battery and lightning bolt beneath it. What happens if this connector makes contact?

    ONYCHA HAZEL - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    im in the exact same boat right now.

    Was everything okay in your case?

    Anthony Gasbarro -

    Same here until I realized that I never reconnected the tiny power button/Touch ID connector in step 31! It’s underneath the headphone cable jack from step 30. Mine was hiding under the board and I carefully fished it out with a tweezers.

    ajm0824 -

    I have the same issue. Followed Instructions to theT. Battery is connected properly as it fully charged however, it will not power on. If i disconnect the battery and connect the power adaptor, it powers on. How did you resolve your issue?

    Ian Duff -

    Mine will power on, but will not charge.

    J D - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi, did you manage to fix this? Ive got the same issue sadly.

    Cooldude2222 -

    Lifting up to about 75 degrees is more that enough and safe, and I did also use some electrical tape to block the contact. When this goes back, there is no socket in place, it is just the screw that keeps it there.

    Cristian Caprar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Screen: step 15, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Screen: step 15, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement, Screen: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.

    • Remove the display board flex cable cover.

    I have T4 sized here. Same with a lot of the other ones. Make sure your driver fits snugly!

    Mac Daddy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Which one is the back light? Anybody know?

    Gary Esser - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    T3 worked for me, the T4 I have was too big.

    Louis C - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  15. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 16, image 3 of 3
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.

    • Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector.

    I had a problem with the display and I managed to solve it by disconnecting the display board flex cable and connecting it back. It worked for a while, until the first restart of the laptop, again display became inoperable.

    When I tried to do the same thing, I realized that this bracket is missing. Most likely I lost it when I first worked on it.

    Could be this piece the reason why the display stopped working after the restart?

    I ask because I try to eliminate every step in finding the source that is causing this problem at the moment.

    Thank you!

    Lei Mi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A lot of these are actually T4, not T3, so be sure to use the right bit. It should fit snugly.

    Mac Daddy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  16. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable.

    Are parts (cover and bracket) from Step 15 and 16 required in order the display to work?

    MiniMe - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  17. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total).

    Thanks for sharing. Emus4u app is the best app, I love this app. Emus4u easy to download all game chats app and emulators apps. This app has advantages to download the free cost of app and quality and quantity apps. Emus4u apps design for PC, ISO devices, and Android. All the apps including the paid ones that you see in the official app stores are available for free using Emus4u. There is a lot to explore in the app store. I really enjoy this app Click more information Emus4u

    jinn dev - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    ^ Clearly there needs to be a report button on comments because of shithead spammers like jinn dev

    John M - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  18. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 19, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 19, image 3 of 3
    • Remove both hinge covers.

  19. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 2
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

  20. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 21, image 3 of 3
    • Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

  21. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 22, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 22, image 3 of 3
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board.

    • Before reinstalling these screws:

    • Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.

    My model uses T3 screws here, not T5. FYI if this is a typo. Thanks for the great guide!

    enricolimcaco - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    IF when you are putting your new screen in, and it looks different than this picture, make sure you routed the cable properly, with respect to the antenna you just reinstalled. Its very easy to route the display cable around the antenna the wrong way and have a bit of extra cable flapping around when you are done. It should look nice and tight like this pic shows.

    Mac Daddy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Also, enricolimcaco is right. These screws are T3, not T5

    Mac Daddy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Make sure you pay attention to which screws you remove here! I removed the 2 next to these 2 that hold in that metal plate and then couldn’t figure out why my antenna would not come out!

    Christopher Meats - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    VERY IMPORTANT to pay attention to the screws in the is step if you don't want to struggle or even damage the antenna

    Eddie Ali - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  22. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly.

    Same problem. All but the very last one. Which now makes me think I should’ve left a few of the other ones in and taking it out first. Maybe it’s causing too much torque on that last screw. ?

    Chris Leeds - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I made the mistake of buying a cheap ebay P2 Pentalobe. It stripped out after the first screw, even though I was slow and careful. 2nd time bought the iFixit brand from Germany and a little WD40 to easily get all 16.

    Jimmy D - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had to be VERY careful with these. More than any other screws. The first 4 wanted to strip out on my. Started to be WAY more careful, and apply way more pressure and was able to get them all out. A combination of not being careful enough on the first ones and having a cheap toolkit almost got me in big trouble!

    Christopher Meats - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The secret to these is to lightly twist the P2 to make sure it’s fully engaged. Once it is, then push straight down (very very) firmly on the screw as you turn it counter clockwise and it will come right out.

    Do the same but clockwise when you reinstall and you won’t strip a thing.

    Corey Mack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The secret to this is, don’t buy the iFixIt toolkit. Most of it’s alright but the P2 bit is too brittle and stripped itself after removing only two screws. Borrowed my brother’s Tekton set and had ZERO issues.

    Sean Zubrickas - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Sorry to hear this—for whatever it’s worth, this is the exception rather than the rule! iFixit bits carry a lifetime warranty. Reach out to customer service and they can ship you a replacement bit, free of charge. I’ve done hundreds of repairs with the same set of bits; haven’t yet had any of them strip or break. Better luck on your next repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a problem using the ifixit tool kit to remove the 16 antenna screws (striped one badly) so i ordered the Wiha drivers from Germany and found the ONLY bit that would fit and thus remove (press down firmly while rotating driver) the pentalobe screws was the 1PLx40 driver, not the 2PL as many have said here. 2PL was just too big to even fit in the screw head.

    Robert DiIorio

    robert - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had some real issues with these screws. It was because the P2 bit was stripped somehow. iFixit was super helpful!!! They replaced the bit and the new bit worked perfectly. Only stripped one screw. Thanks iFixit!

    KeithMelara - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Oops — deleted my old thread. Posting to leave this link to replacement P2 Vent/Antenna screws: https://beetstech.com/product/vent-anten...

    enricolimcaco - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is a very tough step.

    Louis C - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Used the IFIXIT toolkit and applied significant pressure, as recommended in the comments. However, the P2 bit was too weak to move the screws, and ended up twisting itself (how?!) before stripping itself and the screws. Repair is on halt until my order of a different P2 bit arrives (praying that the screws aren’t too stripped…)

    Niklas Bastuck - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Ah! You need a bit of heat and/or solvent to loosen the sealed screw.

    Dan -

    I know well the effective technique to remove these, but occasionally that’s not enough. I found myself in this situation recently. While I do plan to avail myself of iFixit’s lifetime warranty, I also purchased a small set of Wiha pentalobe screwdrivers. The 1PL is the equivalent and the fit is glove-perfect; if you look at the tip under a microscope you’ll understand why. As happy as I’ve generally been with iFixit parts/tools, their P2 *never* fit like Wiha’s 1PL, and you don’t need to push down on these screws to release them with very little effort.

    Michael Fleming - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  23. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 24, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 24, image 3 of 3
    • Use an opening pick to pry up the antenna assembly and separate it from the MacBook Pro.

    • Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables.

    How do I properly reinstall the antenna assembly during reinstallation?

    ase310 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This did not need much prying for me. Could almost lift it out by hand once all the proper screws were removed. Make sure to remove the correct 4 middle screws from step 22 or you will be prying trying to figure out why it wont come out!

    Christopher Meats - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  24. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 25, image 3 of 3
    • Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat sink.

    • During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.

    I took a short piece of scotch tape and “bundled” the 3 cables together. I kept The screw loop out of the taped bundle. I was able to push the bundle thru the hole including the loop. Using tweezers helped grab the bunch and pull them thru.

    lamajr - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Watch out when re-assembling to get the ribbon cables back under the antenna.

    tonygreenfield - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    PLEASE Consider Tonygreenfield’s comment. I ended up having to take the whole computer a part because I reassembled the laptop with cables on the wrong side of the antenna!

    Corey Mack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  25. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 2
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs.

    Mine are T4. Make sure your bit fits snugly!

    Mac Daddy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Take care to replace these correctly. It is easy to put the film over the top of the black hinge holder.

    Geoff Kayum - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  26. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 2
    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 4.9 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).

    • Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.

    TR8 if you have the pro tech toolkit

    stmfwc - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  27. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 28, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 28, image 3 of 3
    • During reassembly, first install the hinge screws without tightening them. Then adjust the screen until it is correctly centered and aligned on each side. Finally, tighten the screws.

    • If your screen clicks or snaps upon opening, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the screen doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the body when opening and closing.

    • If desired, add a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads to prevent them from loosening over time.

  28. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step.

    • Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.

  29. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 30, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 30, image 3 of 3
    • Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 4.9 mm hinge screws (one from each hinge).

    • Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.

  30. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 31, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 31, image 3 of 3
    • Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

    • Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

    • Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.

  31. MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar 2017 Screen Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the screen.

    Hi, great guide! I followed along to replace the screen assembly on my orange stained MBP!

    Only one minor correction, on step 16, the screws inside my unit (owned since new) were T4, not T3.

    Thanks!

    Mitch Stephenson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    È possibile cambiare solo la scocca in alluminio?

    marcello.paolucci60 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

crwdns2915888:0crwdne2915888:0

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

crwdns2878426:041crwdne2878426:0

Jeff Suovanen

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387,950 crwdns2915208:0crwdne2915208:0

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iFixit crwdns2886886:0iFixitcrwdne2886886:0

Community

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crwdns2917036:02crwdne2917036:0

I think you can safely bump the difficulty from moderate to very for this one.

maccentric - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Just completed it; works great but took me no less than 3 hours.

fararai - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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