Use this guide to replace a broken MagSafe DC-In board.

  1. Remove the following ten screws:
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

    Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

    Seji the veggie -

    What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

    Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

    pmhparis -

    The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

    While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

    Dan -

    I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

    John Adam Wickliffe - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hey guys,

    this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

    I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

    renatumb - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

    kschmesk - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Totally agree!! I used the #00 screwhead for 7 out of the 10, but for the remaining tricky ones I used the #0 screwhead and it helped me out. I was so worried I would strip the tiny screw, but this comment saved me!

    Juliana Mak -

    I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

    Alex - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

    . Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

    I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

    brian whittle - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hello MacWorld,

    Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

    wer 10/5/15

    tayseer999 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

    ForumHermit - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

    Maximilian Klotz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

    gilded yak - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

    Jack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

    Michael Wilkens -

    I’ll second that. I could never find them being different.

    otetz -

    Same here… I could not notice hte difference. Anyone at iFix would like to comment?

    LDS -

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

    Stephen Smith - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

    Wilder Torres - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

    this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

    Matt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

    Luca Giancarli - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.

    Raymond Ives -

    The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

    Don Cely - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Two screw types:


    Shouldered Unshouldered






    El Crashitan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

    Patrick Langvardt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did this last weekend, and definitely, a Phillips #000 screwdriver is required (not a Phillips #00!)

    Javier Campos Delgado - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    WIll this card be good with MacBookPro 17 inch 2011

    Zafar Ali - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I just followed this guide and it really helped me install a replacement cable and a new Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD in my aging MacBook Pro 13 A1278 MID 2012. It’s performing like a new machine now! The guide worked fine, but I’m curious why this HD cable costs €45 on Ifixit’s webshop, and only €13 on (I live in Europe)? The Amazon purchase also included two screwdrivers and a spudger.

    Jeff Baker - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found out that one way to reduce the chance to loose screws is to leave them in their holes of the lower case right after unscrewing them. In fact, you can put the lower case back in place with all but one screws in place. The only one that I ever needed to put apart was the long one at the top right in the picture (the one that goes close to the display data cable underneath the lower case). Hope this help others! and you stop wondering about shouldered versus not shouldered short (3.5mm) ones :-)

    LDS - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    For a MBP 2011, I’m not able to unscrew one of the 14.4 mm in the lower back. Can I know how can I get that done?. Thank you..

    Rajesh Rajasekharan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent. Remove the lower case.
    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

    If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

    Thanks for your help.

    Mikell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

    Shi Feng - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

    Claire Rapp -

    Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

    Volkan Ogul - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.
    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Sooo the track pad is under the kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

    stiknrudder -

    This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

    Steven Layton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

    Diego Hernandes -

    Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

    stiknrudder -

    Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

    ausmkv - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

    Peter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

    John - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

    toiu - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

    Anrothan -

    Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

    fasthans - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

    MacProUser - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

    Simon Mundy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

    Zeerachen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

    Ed Oliver - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

    Bradley Marks - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

    No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

    nichoferr - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

    Mfernandez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

    Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

    BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

    wassberg -

    Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

    Stephen Smith - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

    Raymond Rinaldi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

    Marijke de Vries - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static.

    B T - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0


    Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

    Myzcio - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I have a late 2011 MacBook Pro 13in and did not disconnect the power from the battery. I upgraded from 4gb to 16gb and worked perfectly. Just make sure to power it down and be gentle. It was super easy and quick, and I feel a significant boost in performance. Cant wait to install my 1TB SSD Samsung 860 next!

    Rock Hash - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    u can use 16GB DDR3 @ 1600mhz. intel says 16 @ 1333, and apple 8.

    apple will solder even the folders to the background for to sell you the “open” or “move to the trash” command. if the battery is not removable, its not a casuality…. u can be sure

    Oscar Sanchez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Would draining the battery (by using the machine until it runs out of power) do the trick for this? Seems it would be less risky than potentially damaging the connector/cable during disconnection for example.

    moshimoshi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Cannot install any os on new ssd ? Mac is reading it.. please help

    robertbruen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

    What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

    Diego Hernandes - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

    The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

    One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

    Great guides. Thanks!

    timgunkel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

    Sal Ergrapes - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

    Ian Thal - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

    Darren Rose - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Très bonnes explications. Concernant le débranchement de la batterie, faute de “smudger”, on peut le faire tout doucement avec le bout des ongles (s’ils ne sont pas coupés trop à ras, LOL), et surtout ne pas tenter de le faire d’un coup: il faut y aller tiers de mm par tiers de mm. Le retrait des anciennes mémoires n’est pas facile non plus, car on a très peu de place pour manœuvrer, là encore il faut y aller petit à petit, avec les plus grandes précautions! La barrette située le plus profond doit être soulevée assez fortement dans sa partie libre pour pouvoir être extraite de son étroite cuvette et ce n’est pas simple. Le remontage est nettement plus simple que le démontage. Il faut surtout faire très attention à ne pas confondre les petites vis à épaulement avec celles qui n’en ont pas. Je conseille, avant de remettre le couvercle de fond du Mac, de faire un essai de redémarrage pendant une minute ou deux pour bien voir si tout est OK.

    Lionel Colbere - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  5. Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector. The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.
    • Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

    Can the socket be soldered back if broken? Or am I screwed? Can I use the laptop without the fan?

    ricardosaez395 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I have the same question, looks like instead of "unplugging" these micro connections, I accidentally pried it off the Board instead. Harumph. Can these be fixed?

    Steve White - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

    Scott Stanley - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

    Thomas Carr - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

    Carolyn Ryan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

    jcundy2 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Rut roh… after trying this computer is running like stuck in mud. the sprocket thing broke and have 2 of the gold looking plugs, now what should I do? any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance. fan speed 0 rpm lynz4tex

    Lynn Foyt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I broke it off as well. Fortunately I am replacing the board so the new board will have an intact socket. I just popped the fan plug out of the broken socket and tossed the broken off socket. The fan plug is undamaged and ready to be plugged into the new board socket.

    Speaker - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I simply skipped this step and left fan wire connected to logic board. Just unscrew screws from Step 6, put fan on the logic board and remove whole stuff togheter.

    paczor - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  6. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:

    • One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

    billytalentlovexo -

    Nope just tried a T6 and its too big, don't have a T5 but it's gotta be one

    billytalentlovexo -

    It would be helpful to have recommendations about how to clean the dust from inside. What places to direct the compressed air,

    garyrclark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Forget the dust inside: replace the fan for about $15! Here’s what I ordered and it worked perfectly:

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Wah. My screws got rounded out and the old fan is stuck in now. Anybody have a solution to get them out without frying the logic board? It definitely seems as if locktite has been used here. Has anybody else found evidence to support that?

    Jimbo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  7. Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.
    • Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.

  8. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case. Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  9. Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail :

    VARE - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

    giovanni.billet - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

    moonsugar33 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable :

    To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial :

    Guillaume Lamaison - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  10. Disconnect the following four cables: AirPort/Bluetooth cable
    • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

    • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  11. Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    • The cable may be difficult to insert. If you are having trouble, temporarily attach a piece of tape to the cable to help you guide the cable into the socket.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    Thanks! This saved me hours!

    Marc Steffen -

    David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

    simolinic - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

    Jacob - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit

    works great!

    mark Andrews - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    “Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.” <=== perhaps the best suggestion I’ve read in years!

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The tape trick works. Since we’re in the middle of a home renovation project I used a piece of painters tape that was lying around. It doesn’t really stick to the cable but it just gives you that extra grip.

    Rob Kruit - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.

    nikowesome - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.

    Zakary Womack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The tape trick was the only way it could go in for me.

    Lee Hughart - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    PLEASE post the tape trick for reinsertion into the MAIN instructions for this repair. I managed to destroy the cable traces requiring me to replace the whole keyboard before I found the tape trick info. Please, please, please keep anyone else from &&^&^$^ up this way.

    Robert Daverin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The most difficult part. It is hard to get it out and put it back. It seems there are a lot of suggests how to do it easier. I spent on this about a half an hour :( Pitty that I didn't see that suggestions before.

    dmitrybalabka - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    For me the most difficult part as well. Tape trick is great .

    Stefano Paliaga - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Foto’s of the tape trick to insert the keyboard ribbon into the ZIF socket:

    Leon Abelmann - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This was super helpful! I started with a rolled up piece of tape, and that didn’t let me pull with enough force to get the cable inserted. Thank you!

    20thme -

    Hi! I seem to have damaged the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket and is there a way I can make my Mac work again through an external keyboard or something? What kind of keyboards will help and how does it work?

    Sandeep G - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

    Jonathan Davis - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  12. If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.
    • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.

    Bill Kirby - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.

    moonsugar33 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  13. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  14. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    Hello Guys , I accidently Broke the Cable , is there a replacement for it?

    dewa - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  15. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    Probably a long shot but can this cable be replaced? I think i broke mine

    Ahmad z - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.

    mark Andrews - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!

    Shannon Maguire -

    My display is also not working after reassembly. External monitor works, but the internal display doesn't.

    Chris - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.

    Steven Weeks -

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Matt Did the internal display then turn on? Mine is still dark…

    Tony Feldhaus -

    When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?

    Wayne McCarthy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Any update on this issue?

    what did you change to fix it?

    Michael Aumueller -

    Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon

    Shannon Maguire -

  16. Remove the following nine screws:
    • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

    • In some models the screws may be slightly shorter as follows:

    • Five 3.0 mm T6 screws

    • Two 3.6 mm T6 screws

    • Two 6.7 mm T6 screws

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    ForumHermit -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

    rubenwiersma - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

    msvicious510 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm

    sebdominguez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

    jeff chasalow - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  17. Remove the following two screws: One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

    The last screw is the onde that's getting me. Been trying to take it out for half an hour...

    leotowers - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Not necessary to remove the small screw holding the silver colored retaining clip on the data cable retainer. (pictured still attached in the guide) Cost me 45 minutes trying to get it back on which included looking for, and fishing it out of, the places where it tried to hide because it’s so ding dang small it was tough to reattach and seemed to have a guided navigation system sending it everywhere but where it was supposed to go. Additionally, the middle hole on the retainer is empty in this step for reassembly as that is where one of the long rear cover screws goes when you put the case back together.

    tues boomer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Definitely not necessary to remove this bracket. You can disconnect the mic from the logic board and not have to deal with this bracket.

    kc7gnm77 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  18. Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    The mic adhesive was the only adhesive which seemed diminished by disassembly. I don’t know what apple uses for internal adhesive but I finished the project wishing I had some to secure this mic assembly a little better.

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I managed to get the board out without prying the microphone off by twisting the board out while the microphone is still connected.

    You can then disconnect the microphone cable, which is a similar style connector to the fan cable and remove the board completely

    Alex - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

    raph raph - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

    Avocet Peregrine - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It is better to leave the mic glued down and just disconnect it from the logic board.

    kc7gnm77 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  19. Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.
    • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

    • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

    I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

    Jean F - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

    fasthans - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

    fasthans - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I got the microphone cable out fine, but what I'm really struggling with is the camera cable - it doesn't seem to wanna come out and I don't want to force it because I know it's fragile. Anyone find a trick for this?

    ingwis - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    There is one flexible metal plate near each connector probably a grounding plate which can get bend while pulling out the logic board. I had one of them bend but fortunately it didn't break off.

    Leo Jose - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/

    Denise Vondy -

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.

    airshack - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    In my case I need to repair one of the USB ports so I just ended at this step.

    paczor - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  20. Pull the MagSafe DC-In board cable toward the heat sink to disconnect it from the logic board.
    • Pull the MagSafe DC-In board cable toward the heat sink to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • Do not pull upwards. Pulling the connector upwards may break the socket from the logic board.

    • Remove the MagSafe DC-In board.

    My experience with the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes me suggest paying close attention to how the DC-in board's cabling is situated as you remove the motherboard from the computer, especially in relation to the microphone and the display data cable retainer. The replacement DC-in board I used had fabric wrapping around the individual cables to the motherboard. Consequently, there is more material to navigate between these parts on reassembly.

    I managed to make it work, but if I had paid more attention to exactly how the cable was routed before removing the original, reassembly might have been easier.

    Larry Horton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    DC-in board remplacement ok, BUT, now S and Q keys don’t work anymore… Don i have to change the upper case or something else to do before ??

    ROS - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It took me a while  to work up the courage to take this project on….after I’d received  the part from eBay.  I was  concerned about finding a way to get my daughter’s photos and documents retrieved before taking it on.  My dilemma was that there didn’t seem to be a way to charge the battery, which  only had about 5% left.  I used a 276gb flash drive to transfer  the essential  stuff using the remaining battery life.  Then I took the project on.  For a while, I still couldn’t get the bright green or amber light to come on, but just left the laptop plugged in with the dimmest green light showing on the magsafe charger.  After a few days, the battery charged up (almost like a slow trickle charge).  I fiddled with resetting  few things, per several suggestions, to no avail.  Today, however, out of a clear blue sky, I plugged the charger into the magsafe port and it turned green, then amber for the first time, and started charging pretty fast.  It seems a bit finicky about how it rests in the socket. Go for it!

    Carolyn Ryan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi Carolyn, I am in the same boat as you. I have the parts, just waiting for the courage ! I have already replaced the battery and the trackpad without any issues. Just concerned about breaking anything in the disassembly process. Maybe Apple make these parts so delicate on purpose so that its not user friendly to easily replace without risk (otherwise everyone would be doing it themselves right - no fun or $ for Apple !).. Wish you were here to guide me through the process (knowing that you have already been there, done that ! so to speak !). Cheers Ron

    Ron - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I replaced the battery. The computer turned on. When the battery was dying I tried to charge. It wouldn’t charge. Replaced the MagSafe. Still won’t charge

    theredeygo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I completet this “surgery” on my A1278 Pro, since the old magsafe board did not connect at all anymore. Now my mac can run of the magsafe power supply, however it does not charge the battery.

    Does anyone know what could cause this, or have experienced similar? I did search the answers forum, but the “solved” ones were faulty power supplys or similar. Both the magsafe charger and the battery is recognized by the Mac OS, but it simply says “Battery not charging” when plugging in the magsafe. My battery is working fine and the mac did also run of it after the new DC-in board replacement, however it just ran out of juice just now, since it does not charge. The magsafe LED does not light up either.

    Do I simply have to retrace my steps and check if the connector is i porly placed or did i &&^& something up in my operation?


    It’s in danish i know, but basicly it was to show the fact that both the battery and charger was shown in the OS, number of cycles (1300) ‘n such. Thanks!

    Mikkel Rask - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.



It's worth noting that the two ribbon cables held in place by ZIF connectors are a real pain to put back in - it's very hard to get any force pushing them back into the ZIF connector. It took two small tweezers and a bit of luck on the keyboard cable.

peter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

To get back the keyboard ribbon I put the piece of Anti-Static Kapton Tape to enter it.

Ivan Oliveras -

As stated the keyboard connector is a nightmare to get back in, how I finally did it is, I presented the cable to the socket and using a sticky label pressing down pulled the label towards the centre of the mainboard

The magsafe connector is not under the mainboard and it would be easy for apple to have designed it so that the socket was on the top not the underside of the mainboard

brian whittle - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I was using my Laptop (literally in my lap), with the charger connected when it felt very warm on my pant leg. Felt the bottom of the case by the Mag Safe connector and it was very hot, almost burnt my hand. Surprisingly hot. Wouldn't charge right after that, kept getting hot, intermittent charging. Looked at the contacts with a jewelers loupe; the gold contacts were burnt and blistered, plastic melted so it wouldn't make full contact with the AC charger. Charger contacts OK. Replaced DC in board, works like new, saved a bundle of cash. Laid all the screws out in related groups on table top. e.g. All 10 cover screws in a square. MoBo Screws in MoBo pattern, or, you could use a small metric/millimeter ruler to tell which screw goes where.

ovenwally - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

is it possible to use this magsafe board for macbook pro 11" 2011? please let me know!

niloulotus2005 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I followed all the MagSafe installation instructions on a Macbook Pro 13" early 2011, and it worked flawlessly at first, charging all the way up to 100%, with the connector LEDs turning first green and then orange.

After that, unplugged it for some time, and now MBP recognizes the power adapter, but MagSafe connector LEDs show no sign of life and the battery won't charge up any longer. Any ideas??

Jorge - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Great guide. Where can I get the part???

Reid - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

This is a terrific guide. My project, a mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5, was a little different, and the biggest challenges I experienced were places where my computer's connections were different than the model illustrated. So I'll share how that computer differed for those who might come up against the same challenges. I'll add those notes and illustrations in the sections that apply.

I lucked out with the two keyboard ribbon cables. I simply nudged them into place with two different spudgers—one to pry gently upward from underneath, the other to redirect that force to press the cable directly into its slot. I was anticipating a struggle, but it was a nothing.

Thanks for the great work, Andrew Bookholt, and everyone else!

Larry Horton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Reid, I got my part on Amazon. I got the impression that the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 used the same part as the 13" 2011 model, but check it out. Here's the part I used: (661-5217, 661-5235, 922-9307) MagSafe DC Power Board - Apple MacBook Pro 13" A1278/ 15" A1286 (2009, 2010, 2011, 2012)

Larry Horton - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I used this guide to replace the magsfae DC jack on my Macbook Pro 13 A1278 Mid 2012 model. It matches to the letter.

face - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I did this and all seemed to go well, plugged the computer back in and it started without pushing the power button. It all seemed to work at first, keyboard, track pad, backlight keys. However my friend tried loading up some web pages and it was just coming up in plain text, then her mail server wasn't working properly. So she tried a restart on the computer and now it just chimes, the apple logo comes up, it starts loading maybe for 10 seconds, and the shuts down. we left the power connected and eventually the light on the magsafe went from orange to green, so it seems like that is working. strange that it all seemed to work for a moment until she tried to restart it. Any ideas what could be happening or what we can do?

duncan punkin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

while replacing the Magsafe DC port the Hard Drive cable might have got damaged. Try taking out the Hard drive and booting through an external USB connection. If all works fine you might have to replace the Hard Drive Cable. This version of the MacBook tends to have the worst Hard Drive cable, personally have replaced it 3 times in the last 6 years of usage.

abhilash_kris -

Excellent guide. Everything went as described and new magsafe works like a champ!

Levi Hoover - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Good guide, worked out well. Thanks

Mark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Replaced in about an hour, I broke the fan conector so do it as is explained here.

My jack works and charge perfectly since the first boot

Erick Servin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Same here i don’t know what is the problem now..


Worked well. My laptop would not charge unless I did the jiggle with the connector, eventually it stopped charging altogether, so had to do this.

Spent about 2 hours, but totally worth it. My battery indicator lights don't seem to work, but at least the Macbook charges properly.

Omkar Danke - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Just changed mine and it's still not working. I followed everything on this guide and didn't break any connectors. The green light on my charger is still dim. Any other suggestions or assistance on how I can resolve this?

Peter Pastor - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Mine is the same. Replacement went well but I also have the dim green light and no charge still. I’m hoping that I didn’t plug something back in all the way, or there is something else that will fix the issue.

Bobby Dirkmaat -

Hey ! I have the same issue here.. Replacement went well.. MBP charged at 80% at the first time and then I unplugged the charger and replugged and nothing happened.. no charge, no green/orange light. Any idea someone ? Thank you very much.

Adrien Mercuel -

Amazing tutorial, I have changed the borad without any hassle.

At one point of time I thought I broke it (at Step 11) but, it was supposed to get out that way. I was not expecting it to be just ribbon.

Thank you very much!!! Keep up the good work.

Gopal Krishna - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Extremely helpful! Thank you so much for sharing! Most likely saved me a bunch of money!

Justin Patterson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I have a MacBook retina 2014 model. The thing wouldn't even boot up. I have changed the battery and got it working again. However the battery percentage does not change from 32%. The charger does not light up to either green or orange but recognises the charger is attached. It also says it is not charging but the battery is normal. Can I ask does anyone think that changing the logic board will work?

Emma - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

The tutorial was Fine, and it worked for like 1h. And then my macbook don’t charge $@$* anymore.

BENBACHIR YASSINE - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Yess!! I made it thanks to this tutorial.

My reason to replace this MagSafe DC-in Board is that it wasn’t charging anymore. This happend when I had a short circuit on my MacSafe power adapter cable because it was broken.

Hertzberger - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

It worked well. The strip connectors were a pain to remove/replace but it functions properly. It was disconcerting for a while as the fan ran at full speed for about 10 minutes after logging in the user account again.

magawk - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Súper happy!!! All good!!!! Got my replacement parts and tools and work like a charm. Perfect fit everything!!! Didn’t took me that long not even an hour and also cleaned a bit on the inside!!!! Thanks so much!!!! Love to see the insides of my computer!!!!

Cecilamor Ares - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0



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