Use this guide to replace the trackpad.

    • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    When you say:

    Remove the following ten screws:

    Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

    Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

    Nerdily yours,

    Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ;-)

    larryleveen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

    Michael Welham -

    I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

    Allen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The magnetic mat is


    Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

    Frank O'Carroll - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

    Michael Mee - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

    Lilljedahl -

    I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

    It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.

    I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

    AMG - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)

    Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

    Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc:

    Hope this helps! -Dan

    danielwen -

    I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

    Robert Hermans - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi Robert!

    Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

    vensilver - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.

    Arthur Shi -

  1. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  2. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement, Battery Connector: step 3, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement, Battery Connector: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.

    When reassembling the connector wire needs to be bent to fit.

    GERARD SZAREK - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement, Battery: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

    Be carful with the torque when reassembling, these screws seem able to go a little too far and crack through the plastic of the battery.

    Daniel Schlaug - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    To elaborate on Daniel’s comment, particularly the middle 6mm screw seems to have a lot of range and can be over-tightened. I stopped and backed it off a little when it appeared to be deforming the cell to the left.

    Jeff Snider - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After replacing the battery (IF108-063-2) I found the trackpad click pressure to be noticeably higher. The plastic frame on the replacement bowed out some just above the logos below the center cells, pressing on the trackpad once the lower case was reattached. I used some gentle heat from a hot air gun (I used about 150º C) to soften the plastic and bend it back down. This reduced the pressure on the trackpad.

    Jeff Snider - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I'm having the same issue. I got the -2 instead of -1 battery also for some reason. iFixit is this advised??

    Amanda Silber -

  4. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    • If you're installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

    • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Next, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    The instructions that come with the BRTONG replacement battery state the following:

    1) Discharge it to 2% (quite specific) and then charge to 100% at the first cycle after purchasing

    2) Do not discharge the battery pack to 0% as that will damage the battery pack and shorten its life (this does not specify WHEN not to do it. Only during the first cycle?)

    This is very different from the ifixit instructions above , but ifixit could be referring just to the calibration, which could be done AFTER the first cycle, and the manufacturer could be referring just to the first cycle, and not to the calibration. I am not sure what to do. But I guess I will follow the manufacturer instructions during the first (and second, to be safe) cycles, and THEN follow the ifixit instructions for calibration.

    Fernando - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Discharging the battery all the way to zero does shorten the battery life slightly, but it’s necessary for a proper calibration. Without calibration, the 2% reading is kind of meaningless, since the system can’t get an accurate % reading until after calibration (that’s the whole point of calibration). I’d follow the iFixit instructions (which are also Apple’s instructions) and ignore whatever that battery vendor sent you. You can find more background on calibration here.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What do I do with the old battery?

    John Hammer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Good question! Please take the old battery to an e-waste facility.

    Arthur Shi -

    Does it matter what OS is running on the computer during battery calibration? (my laptop is dual boot Linux and MacOS)

    John Haiducek - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  5. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement, Trackpad: step 6, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement, Trackpad: step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the ZIF connector retaining flap on the trackpad data cable.

    • Gently slide the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

    • Adjust, but do not remove the T5 Trackpad Sensitivity Screw to change the trackpad's depth sensitivity.

    The Trackpad Sensitivity Screw in this model is a T6 Torx screw

    andresaldana - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Need a description of why and how much to adjust the sensitivity screw. Do you need to put the screw back to its original position?

    blairweaver - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I agree with andresaldana - it feels like just about all the T5 Torx screws in this model are actually T6 - a much snugger fit. Is there a more official record of whether these Torx screws are T5 or T6?

    ROBERT MOORE - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If your problem is that clicking the trackpad is inconsistent from side to side (one side clicks and the other doesn’t), adjusting this tension screw may be all you need.

    matt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Use the T6 to adjust the Trackpad sensitivity screw: The screw adjusts the 'travel' of the trackpad button and the force needed to register a click successfully. Turning the screw clockwise reduces the required travel, and dampens the sound of the click itself. But be very careful not to turn it too tight. Turning the screw counterclockwise increases the travel, and makes the click louder.

    mulkey - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  6. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • With one hand, push the keyboard ribbon cable in slightly to access the ZIF connector beneath it.

    • Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap.

    • Gently slide the cable out of the connector.

    Be careful with the retaining piece on the ZIF connector, it released with a bit of a fight but then broke when I tried to close it after reinserting the cable. :(

    thea - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Mine popped off too but I managed to get it back on. The clip has two very small bumps on the side that goes down the way so look for them when trying to re-attach it.

    David McKeitch -

    Mine broke too when re-inserting the cable, had to order a new trackpad because of this. Couldn't get it back in and broke off a small piece of plastic trying to fix the latch. I ordered a new trackpad. I really don't hope this happens with the new trackpad.

    Markus -

    Note on the two ZIF connections. The smaller connection has it's ZIF lock toward the front of the laptop while the wider ZIF connection faces the KB. I busted the keyboard connections thinking the ZIF was in the opposite direction. Had to replace it with a new trackpad.

    I have found that I was able to wiggle the cables out of the ZIFs carefully. idk if this works for all ZIF connections and I'd love to hear anyone who has an opinion on removing ZIF cables. But this makes it much easier to remove and not break the ZIF connections.

    Tim - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I work with a Magnifier with a light. Blowing up the subject so you have it really magnified to a high degree helps enormously. I have removed and reattached many zif cables successfully without a hitch. Act like a surgeon.

    Paolo Alberto - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Worked fine. Even the keyboard ZIF Cable. Reinserting it was bit tricky.

    hschreiber - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had a bit of trouble getting the keyboard cable back in before noticing that it needs to be off the surface of the trackpad to slide in. The whole arrangement is awkward; just be patient and take it slowly.

    mrsharumpe - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  7. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the six 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the trackpad in place.

    • These screws are installed tightly and strip easily. Be careful as you remove them.

    Phillips #00 screwdriver should be added to the tool list

    brian - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The trackpad sold to me by ifixit did not come with the little hinge plates. I had to remove the six other screws and transfer these to the new trackpad. If this is based on using the part as sold here then the photo needs to be corrected to show the six red circles on the phillips screws that are on the trackpad and not on the Mac itself. These are installed quite tightly and I nearly destroyed two of them (on the body side as indicated in the photo) using the correct tool. The six that screw into the trackpad are much more gently installed. I don't think you are generally supposed to remove the six to the chassis of the MBA. Please update this to correct this - UNLESS THE PART FROM APPLE INCLUDES THESE TWO HINGE PLATES AND SCREWS. In that case, please INDICATE THIS difference in the text of the article. It added work and a bit of stress when the two screws were nearly trashed and I realized the new part did not come with replacements. Not good. However, this was otherwise a very easy project. THANKS!

    Wade Rackley - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    +1 On this comment. The trackpad replacement kit from iFixit does NOT include the hinge plates. The hinge plates must be removed from the removed from the old trackpad (and the additional six screws holding in place). There is the need to replace 12 screws total in this step AND the removal of the old hinge plates to re-use, and re-install on the new, replacement trackpad assembly. This is a critical miss in this step's directions.

    coryss -

    If someone could please respond ASAP, i was removing one of these screws from the above picture and it was completely destroyed despite my best efforts. The other 5 came out no problem but i have one screw that is stripped beyond use and i have no clue what do to with it at this point

    jed falone - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    PH#00 was a size too large in my case. Had to use PH#000 instead.

    Stewart Johnston - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When you’re putting it back together make sure that you don’t put the flatcable through the cutout and stick it between

    Dennis van der Pool - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  8. MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013 Trackpad Replacement: step 9, image 3 of 3
    • Open the device about 10 degrees.

    • While holding the bottom of the trackpad, press up on the side of the trackpad closest to the logic board to free it from the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad from the device.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.


Sam Goldheart


450,567 crwdns2915208:0crwdne2915208:0



iFixit crwdns2886886:0iFixitcrwdne2886886:0





Followed the instructions in order to adjust the sensitivity of the trackpad, nonetheless the screw I found was a T6, not a T5. But in any case, excellent guide, thank you!

andresaldana - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

any chance this part is the same for a mid 2012 11” ?

Lane Jasper - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

If you click the part at the top of the guide, you can see the compatibility listed, unfortunately they’re not the same, but we do have the 11” trackpad here. And the accompanying guide lives here!

Sam Goldheart -



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