crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
Use this guide to replace the logic board in your MacBook Air 13" 2022.
To maintain Touch ID functionality, you must also replace your Touch ID sensor with a new one that's paired to the replacement logic board. If your new logic board doesn't come with a paired Touch ID sensor, you'll lose functionality. The MacBook Air's original Touch ID sensor is uniquely paired to the logic board at the factory—and without Apple’s proprietary calibration process, even a genuine replacement Touch ID sensor from another MacBook Air won’t work.
Note: This laptop uses a combination of standard Torx and Torx Plus (IP) screws. In the case that you don't have all the necessary Torx Plus drivers, you can use standard Torx drivers instead. If you do, make sure to use constant, downward force to avoid stripping.
crwdns2942213:0crwdne2942213:0
-
-
Power off your MacBook Air and unplug all cables.
-
Close the display and flip the laptop upside down. Keep the lid closed until you've physically disconnected the battery.
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0FixMat$36.95
-
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the four 6.4 mm screws securing the lower case:
-
Two screws with a short threaded portion near the hinges
-
Two screws with a long threaded portion near the front of the MacBook
-
-
-
Apply a suction handle to the center of the lower case's front edge.
-
Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a small gap between the lower case and the frame.
-
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
-
-
-
Slide the pick to the bottom right corner to release the first clip.
-
Slide the pick around the corner and up the right edge to release the next clip.
-
-
-
Insert the opening pick in the original gap created with the suction handle.
-
Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner and up the left edge to release the two remaining snapping clips.
-
-
-
Keep the lower case flat and firmly pull it straight away from the back edge, one corner at a time, to disengage the sliding tabs.
It's obvious once you know how, but I think that stating the direction of force you apply to the lower case (towards the front) to separate the sliding tabs would be helpful.
Thank you for the great instructions!
The back tabs are meant to slide down towards the track pad. Do not pull up on the back tabs
Using the iFixit opening tool from the toolkit and applying a moderate amount of force between the edge of the lower case and the inner lip of the main body (not the hinge!) worked better for me.
-
-
-
Remove the lower case.
-
Set the lower case in place and align the sliding tabs with the screw heads they slide over. Press down and slide the lower case toward the back edge to engage the tabs—it'll stop sliding as the tabs engage.
-
Once the lower case is flush with the frame, press down firmly along the perimeter to engage the four snapping clips.
I'd bet that if iFixit was to source upgraded replacement lower case 'feet' with a material like nearly any earlier macbook air or pros had--less hard and slippery--they'd sell a lot of them. I'd buy several sets. The OEM feet are horrible and not very 'Apple' in quality.
-
-
-
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the battery connector cover.
-
-
-
Use an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
-
-
-
-
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the trackpad cable cover.
-
-
-
Use a spudger or your fingers to move the trackpad cable cover out of the way so you can access the press connector underneath.
-
-
-
Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable press connector.
-
-
-
Peel up and remove the foam pad from the lower display cable cover to reveal a hidden screw.
-
-
-
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the fourteen 1.5 mm screws securing the various cable covers.
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
-
Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the six cable covers.
In step 16 (see here https://i.imgur.com/jbmTEsg.png) there are three screws retaining the inboard LCD connector cover. There is a piece of tape covering the centre screw, and it had me stumped for a minute (I am not vwery smart, am I 😂)
-
-
-
Remove the four screws securing the upper display cable cover:
-
Two 2.5 mm P2 Pentalobe screws
-
Two 2.5 mm 3IP Torx Plus screws
-
-
-
Remove the upper display cable cover and plastic securing bracket.
-
-
-
Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect both display cable press connectors.
-
-
-
Disconnect the microphone array press connector, directly to the left of the display cable.
Does anybody know what this connects too?
Is it part of the Holy Display Trinity (LCD LVDS, Backlight & Camera) or is this something else?Hi! Thank you for the comment. This is the microphone array connector. The guide has been updated!
-
-
-
Disconnect the left and right speaker press connectors.
-
-
-
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the the interconnect cable and the screw post.
-
Pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable.
-
-
-
Disconnect the MagSafe port press connector.
-
-
-
Disconnect both Thunderbolt port press connectors.
-
-
-
Use a pair of tweezers to grip the first antenna connector, as close to its base as possible.
-
Lift straight up to disconnect the cable.
-
Repeat for the second antenna cable.
-
-
-
Remove the nine screws securing the logic board:
-
Three 3.8 mm T5 Torx screws
-
One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw
-
Two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws
-
One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw
-
Two 2.7 mm 3IP Torx Plus screws
-
-
-
Grip the right side of the logic board and slide it towards the trackpad until it clears the overhangs near the speakers.
-
Remove the logic board.
-
-
-
Right speaker cable
-
Trackpad cable
-
Display cables and microphone array cable
-
Antenna cables
-
Battery cable
-
Left speaker cable
-
USB-C and MagSafe cables
Need to include the microphone array cable from Step 20 ;)
-
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or check out our Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting or check out our Answers community for help.
crwdns2935221:0crwdne2935221:0
crwdns2935229:05crwdne2935229:0
crwdns2947412:02crwdne2947412:0
Hi,
Is it normal that after replacing logic board and Touch ID, apple diagnostic comes up with 2 errors ndk001 als001.
One of which is ambient light sensor and the other is keyboard.
Upon testing all the keys on the keyboard all keys are working including Touch ID.
And by shining a flashlight in the light sensor the screen does get brighter.
So it looks like none of the error code is correct that apple diagnostic shows.
Is this a known thing or does this only happen to me?
Peter
For some reason keyboard error is now gone but light sensor issue persists.