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Use this repair guide to replace the screen if it has been damaged.
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Remove the back battery cover by pinching down on the tab and pulling outward.
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Remove the six back panel screws using a Y1 screw driver.
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Remove bottom back panel screw with a Phillips #1 screw driver.
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Remove the back panel by pulling away with one hand and the front secured in the other hand.
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Remove left and right triggers by lifting and pulling them away from the system.
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Do the same for side panels.
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Remove the gray On/Off Switch by pulling up and away from the unit. Replace with another switch if necessary.
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Remove the three screws on the circuit board with a Phillips #1 screw driver.
some motherboards only have 2 screws holding it in place. keep this in mind if you cant find one
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Pull circuit board away from the front panel by pulling up at the bottom of the circuit board, keeping the top ribbon still connected.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Remove the rubber button pads from their pockets.
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Remove the plastic buttons and the D-pad from beneath the rubber pads with tweezers or by hand.
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Use a spudger/tweezers/fingernail to unlatch the LCD ribbon port by pulling the grey tabs on the sides upwards (towards the top edge of the PCB).
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Once the LCD ribbon port has been unlatched, the LCD ribbon should very easily slide out and can be removed with zero force using fingers or tweezers.
Guide does not indicate that the ribbon cable port should be UNLATCHED before attempting to remove the ribbon cable, I strongly suggest revising this as someone unfamiliar with these style of ports may assume that the ribbon cable is a compression fit and just needs to be "pulled" free of the port.
This is a terrible idea that will potentially result in tearing the ribbon! Please consider revising guide to add a step to indicate the proper method/detail for unlatching the LCD ribbon port! Thanks :)
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Use the spudger to lift the screen from the front panel. Place the spudger in the space directly left of the D-pad.
This is a BAD place to pry on a functioning LCD. I used this exact method, slowly and carefully, and my LCD shattered.
Instead, remove the lens (it’s worth it to sacrifice the lens adhesive to save your LCD), and gently and slowly press with a gloved thumb on a corner to push it through from the front of the Game Boy. Let the adhesive release itself, don’t force it. If the room is super quiet, you should be able to hear a faint peeling sound, even if you can’t see anything moving. That means you’re doing it right; just wait and it will release.
Actually you can just pry under the ribbon cable. The LCD has a metal frame there that allowed me to slowly and carefully pry from that point without (re)breaking my LCD.
Yep. Same thing just happened to me :(
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Use the tweezers to remove the black tape if needed.
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Cal Poly, Team 16-29, Maness Winter 2010 crwdns2935289:0Cal Poly, Team 16-29, Maness Winter 2010crwdne2935289:0
CPSU-MANESS-W10S16G29
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Doesn't say where you can get new screen !!!!??
Doesn't say where to get screen from !!!??
Do this with the Game Boy Advance SP please!
It does not say where you can get a new screen
DONT DO THIS LIKE THAT!!!. The area of the screen in the space beside the D-pad is the only area where the LCD glass is completely exposed. It’s Literaly the WORST place to apply pressure, 99% chances for the LCD to break. There is a notch on the top right corner and another under the ribbon cable. Making your way from the top right to the left is far more safe.
To @flyingmcintosh, this happened exactly as you said it to me. Really wish I had seen your comment first but as soon as I applied the smallest bit of pressure where they outlined I heard the crunch; really frustrated with ifixit here.
