Stuck Throttle Cable

Control cables on bicycles, motorcycles, mopeds and motor scooters are subject to wicking rain water if the machines are left outside in the weather or operated in the rain. This can promote rusting of the cable and the outer spiral-wound housing. If the temperatures drop below freezing, this can also cause ice formation in the sleeve and will make the cable stick, a potentially hazardous situation if discovered while riding. If one is unable to keep the machine out of the rain, the next best thing is to periodically disassemble the cable for maintenance, if possible. If you have access to an air compressor, blow out the housing with a rubber-tipped blow gun. Wipe off any moisture from the cable, lubricate it with a light coating of approved grease and re-thread the cable into the housing. It may also be helpful to inject a generous amount of light penetrating oil, such as WD-40, to displace moisture from the housing.

Hi, Here is a URL for the owners manual that you can download. Ralph

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3829218/1986-S...

This used to happen a lot with the speedometers in old cars.

I would say some 3-in-1 oil, liquid wrench (or other rust buster) inside the cable sleeve, where IMnsHO, your problem is.

Though it might be cheaper and faster in the long run to just replace the cabling.

N.

did you put it together right?

and what do you mean by 'immedialtely shutoff as soon as I apply the throttle?"

yes that sounds like what was required.

for anyone else with the same problem of a stuck throttle. (it is a common problem too)

the little brass cyclinder should be installed with the biggest,longest gap that runs from the top of the cyclinder to the bottom of the cyclinder- facing the right hand side of the bike.

that is to say that the sleeve can fit into the carby two different ways, however only one of those two ways will correct the stuck throttle problem. easy once you know how :-)

oh and by the way the needle has 6 little notches on it.

the single C clip holds the needle at a required position, which can be adjusted as required. ie. lift the needle up and it will make the engine run richer (more fuel goes into the combustion chamber). drop the needle down a few notches andnit will run leaner.

this helps the motor perform to its best ability in various heights above sea level.

Looking at at exploded view of the carburator on suzukiparts.com it appears that the "SEAT, THROTTLE VALVE SPRING" (the M shaped clip) should lift the throttle needle/ needle clip with the stop at the end of the throttle cable lifting the whole needle assembly. The setup looks similar to other slide carburators I've seen on the larger honda keihin scooter carbs