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A collection of repairs for on-ear, over-ear and in-ear headphones, earphones and earbuds.

Montblanc MB01 - Battery Replacement

I'm trying to replace the battery in a pair of Montblanc MB 01 over-ear ANC headphones (2020, discontinued). The cell is dead — about one hour of runtime against a rated 20, and it collapses from 75% to zero in one step. Montblanc no longer repairs them and won't supply parts. There is no teardown, guide or forum thread for this model anywhere I can find, including in Chinese, Japanese and Korean.

I've been careful and stopped rather than force anything. Here's what I've established.

Ear pad side (right cup). The pad comes off cleanly — it has its own plastic carrier ring that clips into the housing, no adhesive. Underneath is a black bezel carrying the regulatory markings: Model MB 01, Montblanc-Simplo GmbH, Made in China, INPUT 5Vdc 0.72A, FCC ID 2AENP-MB01, IC 20163-MB01, CMIIT ID 2019DJ11415. Around the bezel perimeter are eight or so openings, all identical rounded rectangles, evenly spaced — as far as I can tell these are all sockets for the pad's clips. I can find no screw heads anywhere on this face, including under raking light. Inside the bezel is the driver behind a fabric dust cover. The only central feature I can feel through the fabric is the driver's dome, so nothing structural there.

Outer face. A smooth silicone dome with the Montblanc emblem. No seam, no lip, no step I can feel with a fingernail anywhere around its edge. There's a pinhole mic port through the silicone itself, which suggests it's bonded and registered to a mic capsule behind it rather than being a removable cover.

Chrome band. Carries the buttons, USB-C, 3.5mm jack and another mic port. I tried gentle leverage here with a plastic pick and the metal deformed very slightly before anything released, so I stopped immediately.

So: no fasteners visible on any of the three surfaces, no seam that takes a pick, and thin polished trim that bends before it gives.

My questions:

  1. Has anyone here ever opened one of these? Even a partial attempt, or a failed one, would be useful — I've found nothing at all online, and I'd rather learn from someone else's dead end than repeat it.
  2. Does anyone recognise this chassis? The build is almost certainly ODM, so the same shell may exist under another brand with a documented teardown.
  3. Is a bonded outer cup the likely construction here, and if so is this a heat-and-adhesive-cutter job rather than a pry job?
  4. Am I missing an access route — under the yoke fitting, or through the headband attachment?

Thanks in advance to the community for the help! Those are not perfect but they feel super nice I would like to keep using them wirelessly.

Update (08/31/26)

Thanks, that's really helpful — and good to hear the driver side is still the likely route. Photos below.

1 — Driver and dust cover, close. The fabric across the acoustic opening with the printed R ring. One of the perimeter openings is visible at the edge for scale. (Serial number blanked.)

2 — Bezel edge and chrome band. Shows the relationship between the black bezel, the pale ring around it, and the polished band. The small oval in the chrome is a mic port.

3 — Bezel at a shallow angle. Best view of how the black bezel sits relative to the pale ring and the outer shell, and of the openings in profile.

4 — Bezel, full view. Regulatory markings, and four or five of the perimeter openings visible at once. This is the face where I can't find any screw heads — these openings are what I've been reading as pad clip sockets, all identical and evenly spaced.

5 — Outer face and chrome band. The silicone dome with no seam or lip I can detect, and the band carrying the buttons, USB-C and jack. Leverage here made the metal flex slightly, so I stopped.

Two additional points: The dust cover isn't moulded into the baffle — the fabric is soft and moves under a light touch. And looking at how it meets the black ring, it appears to be glued and sandwiched between that ring and the assembly underneath, with the ring trapping its outer edge.

If that's right, the black ring is a separate part rather than part of the housing, which would make it the way in.

Questions:

Does that read correctly to you — is the black ring a removable retaining piece with the dust cover captured under it?

If so, is it clipped from behind, glued, or both, and where would you start? I'd rather not lever blind with the diaphragm sitting right there.

Are all those perimeter openings really just pad clips, or have I misread one of them as a clip socket when it's actually a fastener well?

Happy to take more shots or measurements of anything specific.

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crwdns2947414:01crwdne2947414:0:

Hi!

You've done a really good initial job! The standard for basically all headphones is access through the driver side, and I would still bet on that the driver side is the correct access route.

Could you take a couple pictures in good light and update your question please? Then we can easier help guiding you further. Check out this guide for how to update a question with pictures.

I want to wait until I see the pictures to make further judgment, but preliminarily the insides are probably held with clips and/or glue, it is not super common, but a likely contender in this case. Then I'd second that the outer cover is held by clips/adhesive.

Add some pictures and we'll be sure to give a better answer.

Cheers

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crwdns2933313:01crwdne2933313:0

Hi!

Thanks for the pictures, really well done!

I am by no means an expert on this topic, but by looking at the pictures I can tell for sure that he manufacturer had zero intent on you getting inside them.

The different means inside

So, do I think this is secured by clips? No I don't. Unless the whole white outer ring with the black ring on top (sandwiching the fabric) has a certain amount of play, I do not think this is secured by clips. If it were, then there should be an amount of play to allow you to remove the clips, not to mention it being an unconventional way of doing things. Sure, be sure to fiddle with it, try pulling and twisting everything just to be sure.

About the outer perimeter openings, I have no clue what they are for. But I doubt that they would be used to open the headphones, once again that would be a very unconventional way of doing things especially when there are much better, easier, and cheaper methods (i.e. screws). You can of course always take a flash light and see if you see anything fun inside of those holes.

I think you are to disassemble by the driver side. I think the outer ring is glued down. This is based on that there is no seemingly obvious other way to open the headphones. And, by looking through the attachment holes for the ear pads, there is a shiny textured surface that looks a lot like a kind of glue or adhesive. I would not remove the black ring that sandwiches the fabric, but aim to remove the white ring that the fabric and black ring is probably glued on.

Disassembly Process

There is a small lip between the white outer ring and the metal housing of the ear cups, that is where I would try prying the ear cups open (see the red line in the pictures below). You can make an attempt without any heat, without pushing hard, just to see if there is any results or any play (and would this be clips and not glue, this action would probably make you feel the difference). But more than likely you will require heat to soften the adhesive, and would then be able to separate the white ring from the metal housing, opening the ear cup. When opening the ear cups, be careful as the driver/element could be attached to the outer ring to not rip off any cables (I don't think this is the case, but better safe than sorry.). You may need to use some force when prying open the white outer plastic ring, but you should not require extreme force!

Whether you'll use a hair-dryer or a heat-gun, you'll probably want to protect the driver from the heat. If you have kapton tape, you can make a shield of aluminum foil, and then secure the aluminum foil shield with kapton tape as that tape is quite heat resistant (electrical tape will react badly with the heat), otherwise you might be able to secure the aluminum foil shield by jamming the ends in the holes for the ear pad clips. Otherwise, be creative! You could additionally use ceramic (e.g. a mug or a small plate) to block the air-path from the heat-gun towards the driver.

If you use metal tools, just be aware that they have a higher risk of scratching the chrome finish and the plastic, and it should be okay if you tried with sturdy plastic prying tools after having applied the heat.

I think that covers most of it. Of course, all of this is just my guesses, so you can only try to know if it works or not. Let us know how this went when you're done!

Comment any response or if you have any further questions!

Take lots of pictures while you work. Once you're done, upload those pictures and create a guide, this will help the next person who has the same issue.

Good luck in your endeavor!

Cheers,

Images:

Where I would try to separate the ear cups, marked with the red stroked line.

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