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The original Xbox is Microsoft's first widely popular video gaming system. It has an easily identifiable black case with 'XBOX' emblazoned on the top and front. Repair is easy with common tools.

Help identifying power supply components

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This is a 1,0 model original XBox using a Foxlink FTPS-0001 Rev B power supply.

I've been casually attempting to repair this XBox for a few months now and I think I finally found the culprit. One of the glue blobs on the power supply hiding underneath one of the heatsinks was rather discolored, and after cutting it open I found these two little guys at positions C5 and R6. The board itself was also discolored underneath. I can't find a schematic for the power supply so I'm asking here as a gut check.

C5 - This is the ceramic capacitor to the left, I believe this is the part that has failed as the pad on the bottom of the board showed some corrosion and started to lift. Testing on a multimeter shows no results. Markings lead me to believe the values are 2.2 nF, 1000V, +-20%.

R6 - This is the resistor to the right, whatever happened under the glue discolored it so the bands are not totally clear. Testing it returns 21,640ohm, 3V but that doesn't seem right so I'm assuming this then failed with the capacitor. My research says this should be 39ohm +-5%, but my eyes see red/black/brown/gold which would would put it at 200ohm +-5%. However, if it is red/brown/orange/gold then my testing was actually correct and put it at 21,000ohm +-5%. Really at a loss here.

Am I on the right track here and are any of my values correct? Is there anything else I should probably test on the supply while I'm at it?

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usually, resistors go bad because of too high a current. A high percentage of times power supply problems are shorted diodes, followed by bad caps. The diodes shorting create problems for other components. Color code reading on overheated resistors is tough. However, measuring 21,640 and reading 21k is a good sign it is 21k. However, 21k is a high value for a pwr supply, but not impossible. The cap being next to the resistor could be colateral damage. Those caps rarely fail. You have to wonder why that resistor didn't burn up totally.

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I think you were right in wondering that something else on the board may have failed leading to this.

The diode labeled D1 in the image is shorted and looking at the underside of the board shows it is directly connected to the transformer, which I assume is also now bad. At this point I'm now way beyond my depth to where I'm feeling like "fixing this has now become really dangerous". More so since we have no schematic.

At this point I just decided to order a replacement power supply of a different brand which is more reliable. If I was an expert with more training I imagine the cost of the correct transformer here alone would be pretty close to what I just paid for an entirely separate unit. Thank you so much.

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