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Dryer is not heating

I tested the thermomist, thermal fuse, thermastat, the coil, and the moisture sensors. All tests come back that the parts are good. So I replaced the control board, and the dryer worked for about 10 loads, and now it won't produce heat again. Is something frying my control board? If so, what would that be? Any ideas on how to fix my problem?

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@elizabethrincon what make and exact model is your dryer?

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@oldturkey03 Maytag med7230hc2

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Hi @elizabethrincon

Have you checked that the fuses (or breakers) for the dryer in the house power box are both OK.

Looking at the owner manual, it requires 2 x 120V supplies for the dryer to operate. One for the motor/controls etc and the other for the heater element.

If a fuse has blown (or breaker tripped) replace (or reset) it and check if the dryer now works OK.

If the fuse/breaker blows/trips again, there's a problem in the heater circuit in the dryer.

Check the heater wiring path for any frayed or pinched wires that may be touching the chassis etc.

It should be that the thermal cut-off operates or the supply fuse blows before there's any damage occurring to the control board but since you have replaced the thermal cut off and if the control board has again suffered any damage then it could be the that there a wiring problem between, the thermal cut off and the control board or the fuse/breaker. What is the fuse/breaker rating? It should be 15A

Here's an image of the heater operate circuit that may help.

Block Image

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@jayeff Yes, breaker was one of the first things we checked. Both are good.

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@elizabethrincon

With the power totally disconnected i.e. trip both breakers and unplug the dryer, you can check most of the heater circuit using an Ohmmeter - function found in a DMM (digital multimeter) and doing point to point testing using the wiring diagram as seen on p.13 of the tech sheet for the dryer.

The only path you can't test this way is through the relay contacts on the control board as the relay will not be operated. This also applies to the centrifugal switch in the motor as it will only be closed when the motor is running.

If you prove most of the heater circuit is OK by doing this static test i.e. no power, then you can reconnect the power and with the dryer turned on, use the voltmeter function of the DMM and check if there's voltage being applied to the heater element and if it's not trace it back both ways i.e. towards motor and control board to find out where it stops.

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Elizabeth Rincon crwdns2934231:0crwdne2934231:0
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