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Summary: A high-end LED and under-eye cooling face mask released by SharkNinja. It features iQLED technology (Red, Blue, and Infrared) and InstaChill cooling, controlled via a tethered remote.

Replacement batteries for Face Mask?

I was recently gifted a Shark CryoGlow FW312UK Face Mask and I'm already concerned about its long-term viability. For a product retailing at £299.99, the repairability outlook seems bleak.

The issue: The unit is controlled via a wired remote which houses the battery. To my surprise, the firmware completely disables the mask if the remote is plugged into a USB-C power source. You cannot use the mask while it is charging.

This feels like a massive design oversight (or intentional limitation). Not only does it prevent you from using it if you forgot to charge it, but it also means that once the internal lithium-ion battery inevitably degrades in a few years, the entire £300 device becomes e-waste. Shark’s own documentation states the battery is not replaceable and the warranty is only 2 years.

Technical details found so far:

  • Model: FW312UK
  • Battery Specs: 9.62Wh / 2200mAh Lithium-Ion (housed in the remote).
  • Charging: USB-C (3-hour full charge).

Has anyone successfully opened the remote yet? I’m curious if the shell is clipped or glued, and if the battery uses a standard JST connector or if it's soldered directly to the PCB.

Beyond battery replacement, has anyone looked into a way to bypass the "no-use-while-charging" software lock? Being able to run this directly from a USB-C power bank would solve the longevity issue entirely.

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So I have managed to get the handset apart.

Hopefully these steps and pictures can get you to the same place I'm at and we can figure out the final step of removing the battery together.

  • Use prying tool to remove the lower cover on the back of the remote.
  • Unscrew the two screws.
  • Gently run a prying tool around the perimeter of the handset.
  • There are gaps in the metallic coloured rail which I could fit my pry tool under, I then slipped a spacer in-between to stop the clips from reattaching.
  • There are three clips down each side and one on each top corner.
  • Once these clips have been undone, the front panel should pop off.
  • Unscrew the two screws holding down the cable to the mask.
  • Unscrew the two screws on the bottom of the PCB. Lift up the rubber flap attached to the screen and unscrew the four screws underneath. The screen ribbon cable can also be pulled out.
  • Behind the screen there are two screws either side of the charging port. Remove these.
  • The back of the case should now be able to be popped off, then the guide for the cable should be able to slide up and be moved down the cable and the side rails can slide up and off.

This is as far as I got because the batteries seem to be glued in and I don't own a heat gun to try and melt whatever glue/epoxy is holding the batteries down.

Hopefully this has been somewhat helpful and we can figure the batteries out later on.

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I can't seem to see the pictures I added, if anyone can help me figure out why that would be great

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@samunwin

Here's how to add images, documents etc on ifixit.

The procedure is the same when adding images etc to a Question or an Answer. You cannot add images etc to a Comment on ifixit

Adding images to a new question

When looking for a replacement battery, if there's no make and model number on the battery look for the specifications on the battery and search online using that information to find suppliers.

There is usually the Voltage and Watts (Wh) (or sometimes the Current in mAH) values and also the dimension of the battery.

The battery dimensions are usually a 6 digit number (sometimes 7 depends on length of battery).

The first two digits are the depth (or height) of the battery in mm with a decimal point between the digits WHICH IS NOT SHOWN.

The next two digits are the width of the battery in mm.

The last two digits (sometimes 3) are the length of the battery in mm.

As an example a battery may have the marking of 3.7V 2000mAH 605060.

The 605060 = 6.0mm H x 50mm W x 60mm L

Apologies if you knew this already.

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@samunwin

To un-glue the battery, try applying small amounts of Isopropyl Alcohol 99%+ (available from electronics parts stores) using a syringe as best you can along the side or front of the battery.

Allow it to penetrate and soften the glue and then gently prise up the battery a bit (old plastic credit card or guitar pick etc perhaps) and apply a bit more IPA under the slightly raised battery wait a bit then prise it up a bit more and so on until you get it loose and can remove it.

Go gently so as to not pierce/damage the battery and then dispose of it responsibly afterwards. The environment will thank you for doing this.

Cheers

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