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Door switch configuration - Donga switches marking

Hello, I have a GE Profile Microwave, PEB 9159SJ2SS. Turntable and light continued to run when door open (but obviously not heating - no loud hum). Ran this way for several months. Now unit not heating. I'm buying a new one but for fun pulled the switches out to examine. Three DONGA switches. 2- prong. First question is the labeling on the switches ALL show a wire/conduit COM-NC, but when I test them the top 2 (primary and monitor I think) were NC but the bottom latch (secondary?) was NO. It did not show continuity until I pressed the button. I opened the switches and the internal structure matched my multimeter finding. Also, the terminal on the NO switch (lowest one in the plastic frame) was physically lower on the case of the switch and abeam the NO label, but again the stamped label showed same as the others COM-NC. Is this normal? that the labels don't match the internal setup? and more importantly, when I look at the official parts list/diagram on GE's website, the MIDDLE switch shows different. Everything on YouTube says the middle (monitor) switch is different. Now, I did find some arcing and damage in the top switch - perhaps this switch is SUPPOSED to be NO and it damaged itself so it tests NC and I got confused by the labeling (which perhaps is meaningless). Anybody know how this model is supposed to be configured?? recap, my config now seems, from top to bottom, NC, NC, NO. If the to switch should be NO but it failed to NC, would that cause the turntable to continue rotating with door open? in this case, the fail safe would still work. Thanks SO much in advance for you guru's out there!. Scott

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Microwaves typically use both NO and NC switches. Mechanically they are very similar, and as you've seen, you can differentiate them by the position of the terminals. So no, they won't reverse their function when they fail; what'll happen is they either won't open or won't close no matter which style they are, or they can be slow to operate when they get corrosion or contamination, or the resistance can be too high when they're closed; these are all common failure modes for them.

Those switches are cheap enough that I'd suggest you just go ahead and replace them all. One pro tip I figured out is that you can buy switches that have both functions, NO and NC and use those for either. This kind will have three terminals instead of just two, so when you go to wire them up, you just have to be careful to put the wires on the two terminals that were used on the old switch.

On the ones I'm familiar with, one terminal is labelled COM; that'll be the same for either NO or NC. If you look closely at this picture, you can see which terminal is NO, which is NC, and which is COM.

Block Image

On NC or NO-only switches, they just have the COM terminal and the one corresponding to their function, NO or NC. On this style, you can use the NO or NC function by just plugging the wire into the correct terminal. I've seen some that have both connectors molded into a single plug; in that case all you have to do is just plug it in, and it'll be in the right position.

Anyway, I'd go ahead and buy some new switches; if you prefer you can get yourself two NC and one NO, but as I said, it's a lot easier just to get three NO/NC switches and you can use them for either function.

Short of that, you could try cleaning them with something like electronics contact cleaner or even brake cleaner; anything that will act as a solvent and evaporate completely. I've had microwaves where the switches just got gummed up and their action ended up being delayed, causing it to blow fuses. Cleaning helped in that case, but just to be safe I replaced them anyway.

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