crwdns2933423:0crwdne2933423:0

Powered/Active studio monitors. Released around 2002.

Dead Mackie HR624 MKII measurements... check my work?

I have a dead Mackie HR624 MKII part of a pair I got for free. The other one powers on, but emits only static.

I want to use this as a learning opportunity to do test measurements and diagnosis and hopefully fix the problem.

Schematic: https://www.audioservicemanuals.com/m/ma...

I am starting with the dead monitor first. Like I said, dead, no power light, no sound. Fuses checked and are good. A visual inspection does not reveal anything obvious. no leaking, bulging capacitors. no shorts or burnt parts of the board. the grounding wires look ok at the connection point, no corrosion, but maybe they could be cleaned up anyway.

I did a Transformer AC Output Test and got ~31V AC from the center wire to each outer wire and ~64V AC between the two outer wires, so it seems power is being correctly delivered to the main circuit board.

Next I did a Main DC Power Rail Test and measured 0V DC on both test points.

So that led me to the bridge rectifier. I got the correct forward voltage drop (~0.6V) and an open circuit reading in reverse.

So I did some point-to-point continuity tests

  • AC Path (Transformer to Rectifier): PASSED. There was a good connection.
  • Ground Path (Center Tap to GND): PASSED. There was a good connection.
  • Positive DC Path (Rectifier + to Capacitor C39): FAILED. Showed "1" (no connection).
  • Negative DC Path (Rectifier - to Capacitor C48): FAILED. Showed "1" (no connection).


I'm guessing there is a physical break in the copper traces on the PCB? If so, reflowing that is beyond my knowledge and skill probably. But I could do small jumpers?

Or am I misunderstanding the result of the measurements?

I can share pictures if anyone can help me see the issue the measurements are pointing towards. But now i feel a little over my head.

Thanks.

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First and foremost: You are working with live circuitry. The touching hot side of the power supply is electrically identical to touching the wiring inside your power outlet. This is not a safe thing and you should not attempt to diagnose live wiring or live 120v/220v AC circuits.

Ensure it is not plugged in:

  • to be clear, test points J13 - J17, +41, +15, -15, -41v are what you measured as 0v?
  • You cannot measure the individual diodes in a bridge rectifier while in circuit.
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  • The bridge rectifier has failed.
  • When you remove it, check the condition of C56, 57, 58, C59. They are probably fine, but check them.
  • Check the condition of C48 and C39. If there is anything weird, they may need to come out to check again.
  • Since we're replacing the B.R, replace C43, C45, C73, C72, at the same time. Don't put them in backwards, they will explode.
    • I'm not joking.

Reassemble, take your fingers out, try powering it on again.

  • do a voltage test at the low voltage side only, at the same +41 +15 -41 -15v test points.

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I really appreciate the guidance and am being extremely careful. All my component and continuity tests are being done with the unit completely unplugged.

I started by confirming the transformer was good (I carefully measured ~31V AC on the secondary windings). Was that the right first step? As you suspected, the main +/-41V DC rails were dead at 0V.

Your suggestion to look at the bridge rectifier (BR) was spot on. A diode test on the BR component itself showed ~0.65V forward and open reverse, so it didn't seem shorted. But I take your point that in-circuit tests can be tricky.

The real breakthrough came from a continuity test: the path from the BR's +/- DC output pins to the main filter capacitors is completely open. It failed the test.

This makes me think the BR component itself might be okay, but the solder joint or a PCB trace right at its output is broken. Does this sound like a plausible diagnosis to you?

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

No, it does not.

I do not know how to attach images to this comment, so I amended my original response to contain another diagram with instructions to measure voltage at 4 points on the cold side, and to confirm 4 readings that you have already supplied.

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

@littlegreenrock

FYI

You can't add images to Comments in ifixit, only to Answers and Questions.

What you can do is instead of editing your answer to add images is to provide a new answer with the information and when submitting it, select the update existing answer option.

This will take you to an Edit page where you can make last minute alterations etc but it will also insert an Update sub title in your original answer informing the OP that there's more information rather than you have to inform them about it

Cheers

moderator

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

crwdns2934285:0crwdne2934285:0

Thanks for the updated diagram.

Before performing more live voltage tests, I did a full point-to-point continuity check with the power off. That test revealed the core issue:

There is a confirmed open circuit between the bridge rectifier's +/- DC output pins and the main filter caps (C39/C48).

This broken pathway is why I'm measuring 0V at all downstream test points. Since the power physically cannot get past the rectifier, any voltage test after that point is moot until the traces are repaired.

Furthermore, I believe I've found the original root cause. The U2 power amp IC (TDA7293V) is shorted to ground. Pin 14 measures ~0Ω, while the same pin on U1 measures correctly as an open circuit.

My working theory is that the U2 failure caused an over-current event that vaporized the PCB traces. I have already reflowed the joints to repair the open circuit, and the immediate shutdown/red flash on the next power-on test confirms the protection circuit is seeing the shorted U2.

My next step is to replace the failed TDA7293V.

Thanks for your input.

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