Battery won't charge.

@oldturkey03 yeah. I did some asking with an AI yesterday and it basically said that when the batteries went bad the vacuum sendt a "red flag" to the batterie's PCB EEPROM. And that this is a known problem with large manufacturers like Samsung, Apple and Nikon. And in order to remove the "red flag" one needs specialized hardware and software and an high understanding in coding in order to reverse engineer the code to remove the "red flag". Changing the cells and doing a "hard reset" of the robot isn't enough. Also the AI scanned the SparkFun forum, that does theese kind if things, and it came to the conclusion that many have tried, but no one has been successful yet.

But hey, maybe we can crack it together 😁

Here are the markings on the IC's.

1 (48 legs):

240080

10610G

D

2 and 3 (8 legs):

6N3R4C

04934E

4 (2 wide "legs"):

GFR

There us no other marking than this, like an brand mark or anything, Indicating theese are custom made for Samsung, atleast according to AI (i used Gemeni).

@oldturkey03 Also the link to the hardware I sendt in the original comment you made on the post, is not what I need since that one is for completely rewriting the code on the IC (meaning i then need the original code, somehow, in order to "roll back" the code), atleast according to the AI I asked:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHHnFSY

But the AI said this is the hardware I need (this just reads the code and I, with the right software and code understanding, will be able to unflag the "red flag":

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQmcZoy

Or

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EG5brYy

Is the AI trolling me? Or is this right? 😅

Also if u want I can put the battery under the microscope and take higher resolution pictures of the IC's if you'd like 🙂 Maybe you see something I don't 😄

@oldturkey03 Will you look at that, I missed something 😁 It was GFR not CFR on 4, and 1 had a small D in the bottom left corner 😅

https://imgur.com/a/TXk6b7u

I edited the first post to be correct.

Also this is what Gemeni said about what the guys on the forum that has attempted what we are trying to do:

"Advanced users on sites like the SparkFun forum have attempted exactly what you are trying to do. They have identified pinouts and tried to force a reset by connecting various pins (like RESETOUT and AFE), without success. It is a highly complex chip that doesn't give up its lock easily."

@cyrex86 #2 and #3 are indeed N-channel MOSFETs #4 is a TVS diode #1 is still a mystery. The "D" is most likely a makers mark. Time to do some snooping. Why do I think that this is somehow solvable by using the SDA/SCL pins :-) We need to find a way to "read" the board.........

@oldturkey03 Oh are those mosfets? I thought mosfets had a big drain to ground, but maybe I'm mixing it with something else. As i said I'm still in the learning phase on this stuff 😁 hopefully i get some more experience next year since I then, hopefully, start my studying to become an electrical engineer 😊

Yeah, im also wondering how we can read theese pins 😅 should I just go and order any of the three items I linked? If you don't want to press the links, then that is understandable. If you want, I can post the items "headline". I can also confirm that the last two items I posted has SCL/SDA connection headers.

@lalan45 Hi and welcome to the discussion 😊 Yes, we figured as much in the other answer. The plan was to try to communicate with the BMS with a CP2112 or a FT232H USB to SMBUS I²C communicator, but silly old me managed to bridge two pins on the RAJ240080 controller, when trying to remove the glue on the IC, and it burnt since i didnt remove the cells when fooling around with the BMS, so bye bye project on rewriting the controller. So next attempt will be to just replace the RAJ240080 IC. But do you think it would be possible to simply reset it somehow without a I²C communicator/replacing the IC? Like I don't know, like bridge two jumpers or something (like we usually do on a motherboard in order to clear /reset bios)?