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Dishwasher Fills with water, but water arms wont spin

Hi!

I have a Whirlpool WDP540hamz4 with the 4-3 error. I've replaced the pump and motor combo unit (with W11613479 I believe), but I still get the same issue. I've also opened up the front and inspected the wires; several seemed to have burn marks. I replaced the one that had the worst of them, but it still has the same issue.

For reference, what's happening is that the 2 internal water fan blade things are not spinning or adding water (at least no water from the top one), but the dishwasher is still having water added to it, and the drain is working.

Thanks!

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It turned out that my replacement motor/pump assembly included a diverter module, which wasn't supported by my exact model, and it defaulted to the closed position, which blocked all water that was meant to go out the 2 arms. I removed the top of the assembly from the inside of the dishwasher, removed the disc inside, closed it up, and it worked!

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Hi @king_doge

Here's the tech sheet for the dishwasher that may help.

Run the diagnostic service mode tests as described by the sheet and check what error codes are being shown.

A description of each error code is also shown.

If you find the problem and its a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the parts list that is useful.

Locate the wanted part in the list and note its' part number. Search online for the wanted part number only, to find suppliers that suit you best.

If you search on YouTube for (insert wanted part number) replacement, sometimes if you're lucky there'll be videos that show how to remove/replace the part in the machine.

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Hi!

Thanks, tho the errors codes appearing are those ones in my initial comment, and the recommended part fix didn’t work

Thanks!

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@king_doge

Check if the fuse on the control board that supplies power to the wash pump is OK and not blown.

It's shown on the wiring diagram in the tech sheet but is not designated, so you may have to trace back from J5 connector pin 2 on the board to locate the correct one. Although it may be hard to access the actual board as it is enclosed in a case (image of the board for your model). Perhaps check if 120V AC as getting to the wash pump motor terminals when required.

Given that there were burnt marks, something got hot, probably caused by excessive current flow and it may have blown the fuse as well.

Did you test the old wash pump motor to see if it was open circuit or short circuit windings?

The wash pump motor should measure 5-15 Ohms if it is OK

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@jayeff

Hi!

Thanks! That led me down the rabbit hole to find the problem! The replacement motor/pump assembly included a diverted assembly that wasn't on the original one. I opened it up and removed the diverted disc inside, as it was blocking the water arms, and that fixed it!

Thank you for your help!

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