LG Washing Machine WM2501HVA will not turn on.

Question

LG Washing Machine

General repair information on LG washing machines.

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S Johnson @sjohnson00

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crwdns2931729:0crwdne2931729:0: masiku 5 agoNdz 7, 2025

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LG Washing Machine WM2501HVA will not turn on.

LG Washer Machine WM2501HVA.

Initial Problems:

About 2 months ago, my washer began turning off in between the wash and rinse cycles with increasing frequency. It would give error code PF (power failure) each time it was turned back on. This past week it stopped turning on at all. It is direct drive, but even turning the tub manually from the inside does not cause it turn on, even momentarily. Also, turning the tub manually now requires significantly more force. It used to spin freely and now it does not. Also, I found this gasket laying inside the tub at some point. I am not sure if it belongs to the washer.

Tests / Diagnoses :

I tested the Power Cord, Noise Filter, Cold Water Inlet Valve, and Hot Water Inlet Valve for continuity. The PC and NF passed, the Valves failed. Additionally, the Valves had a lot of buildup in them. From another post I read, I assume it was melted resin from my old water heater that I recently had replaced. The Control Board has a blown component on it.

Repairs Attempted:

I replaced the Valves and the Control Board.

"New" Problems:

The same as before – the washer will not turn on and turning the tub manually does not cause it to turn on, even momentarily. The replacement Valves did not test positive for continuity, but I went ahead and installed them anyways. There is a light on the Control Board that I assume turns on when it is receiving power, but it is not turning on even when everything is plugged in.

I don't think the User Control and Display Board is the problem since the Control Board is not receiving power. Even if the replacement Valves are bad, that should not prevent the washer from starting. The wall outlet is indeed putting out 120 volts by the way. If the replacement Control Board is not bad then I am at a loss as to what the problem could be at this point.

I do not have the kind of money to hire someone to fix this or to buy a replacement, so any help would be a life saver!

Edit 1: Out of desperation, I removed the replacement Control Board and tested continuity of the fuse – negative. I'm 99% sure ShopJimmy sent me a bad Control Board! Unfortunately, you cannot just remove and replace the fuse – it is epoxied into place and I do not want to mess with it since it is still returnable/replaceable. I will edit again when I have an update.

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score 2 · Answer 1 · 2025-09-07T20:56:22-07:00

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jayeff @jayeff

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crwdns2931729:0crwdne2931729:0: masiku 5 agoNdz 7, 2025

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Hi @sjohnson00

It might not have been a faulty replacement control board.

It could be that there's a fault in the machine that causes the fuse on the control board to blow as soon as power is connected to the machine.

Here's the service manual for the model that may help.

There's a very basic wiring diagram on p.17 that shows where all the components e.g. motor, pump, valves etc connect to the control board.

You may have to check that there's no earth (or short circuit to earth) connection on any of the leads connected to the board when there shouldn't be

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Micheal Inglis @michealinglis crwdns2934065:0crwdne2934065:0: 1 2 · Answer 2 · 2025-09-09T02:56:05-07:00

Your LG WM2501H washer shows two main issues: electrical and mechanical. The repeated PF errors and now a dead control board (fuse blown, no LED) point to a shorted load such as the drain pump, motor, inlet valve, door lock, or heater, drawing excess current and killing the board. The service manual’s wiring diagrams and resistance tables help isolate the culprit: each load should measure within spec (pump ~10–40 Ω, valves 1–3 kΩ, motor windings 5–15 Ω, heater 10–30 Ω) and always be open to chassis ground. Any low or grounded reading means the part is bad.

The second problem is mechanical drag. Your basket no longer spins freely. This could be a failing bearing, a jammed object between the tub and basket, or rotor/stator issues. That drag may have overworked the motor, contributing to the electrical failure.

To fix it unplug the washer, disconnect all loads from the control, and test them individually against the manual’s specs. Replace any shorted parts before installing another board, or you’ll blow its fuse again. Free the basket by checking bearings, seals, and obstructions. The gasket you found likely belongs to the tub or door seal; confirm via the exploded parts diagram.