LG Washing Machine WM2501HVA will not turn on.

Question

LG Washing Machine

General repair information on LG washing machines.

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S Johnson @sjohnson00

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crwdns2931729:0crwdne2931729:0: Ndz 7, 2025

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LG Washing Machine WM2501HVA will not turn on.

LG Washer Machine WM2501HVA.

Initial Problems:

About 2 months ago, my washer began turning off in between the wash and rinse cycles with increasing frequency. It would give error code PF (power failure) each time it was turned back on. This past week it stopped turning on at all. It is direct drive, but even turning the tub manually from the inside does not cause it turn on, even momentarily. Also, turning the tub manually now requires significantly more force. It used to spin freely and now it does not. Also, I found this gasket laying inside the tub at some point. I am not sure if it belongs to the washer.

Tests / Diagnoses :

I tested the Power Cord, Noise Filter, Cold Water Inlet Valve, and Hot Water Inlet Valve for continuity. The PC and NF passed, the Valves failed. Additionally, the Valves had a lot of buildup in them. From another post I read, I assume it was melted resin from my old water heater that I recently had replaced. The Control Board has a blown component on it.

Repairs Attempted:

I replaced the Valves and the Control Board.

"New" Problems:

The same as before – the washer will not turn on and turning the tub manually does not cause it to turn on, even momentarily. The replacement Valves did not test positive for continuity, but I went ahead and installed them anyways. There is a light on the Control Board that I assume turns on when it is receiving power, but it is not turning on even when everything is plugged in.

I don't think the User Control and Display Board is the problem since the Control Board is not receiving power. Even if the replacement Valves are bad, that should not prevent the washer from starting. The wall outlet is indeed putting out 120 volts by the way. If the replacement Control Board is not bad then I am at a loss as to what the problem could be at this point.

I do not have the kind of money to hire someone to fix this or to buy a replacement, so any help would be a life saver!

Edit 1: Out of desperation, I removed the replacement Control Board and tested continuity of the fuse – negative. I'm 99% sure ShopJimmy sent me a bad Control Board! Unfortunately, you cannot just remove and replace the fuse – it is epoxied into place and I do not want to mess with it since it is still returnable/replaceable. I will edit again when I have an update.

Hi @jayeff and @michealinglis, thank y'all so much for your answers. It's taken me awhile but I've taken apart my washer and taken my multimeter to it following the guide on page 22 of the manual. Here is that page with my notes: WM2501H Copy

I'm not really experienced with anything electrical at all, so I'm not sure I'm using my multimeter correctly (I found the user guide for it but am still not sure). At this point it seems like I will need to replace some, if not all, of the wiring at this point? I haven't looked up the cost for other parts yet, but at that point, for me, it is no longer worth trying to fix it if I have to pour any more money into it. Similar used models in my area are cheaper than the CB replacement.

Let me know what you think. Thanks!

Also the tub spins freely now. I did undo the whole stator/rotor assembly for testing. Not sure if that fixed it or if it had something to do with it being plugged in with the shorted initial CB replacement.

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score 2 · Answer 1 · 2025-09-07T20:56:22-07:00

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jayeff @jayeff

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crwdns2931729:0crwdne2931729:0: Ndz 7, 2025

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Hi @sjohnson00

It might not have been a faulty replacement control board.

It could be that there's a fault in the machine that causes the fuse on the control board to blow as soon as power is connected to the machine.

Here's the service manual for the model that may help.

There's a very basic wiring diagram on p.17 that shows where all the components e.g. motor, pump, valves etc connect to the control board.

You may have to check that there's no earth (or short circuit to earth) connection on any of the leads connected to the board when there shouldn't be

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The 0V for the lamp would be correct as this correlates to the OL measurement on the Test point near the input line filter.

You said that the fuse on the control board was open circuit so if no power on the board there won't be any 16.5V for the lamp either.

If you can't get a refund on the replacement control board, since you now have two controls boards, original and replacement (is this correct?) I would replace the blown fuse on one board and check if it now works.

A partially jammed motor could cause an increase in current to flow through it which may have resulted in the fuse blowing.

Nothing much to lose by trying. If the problem is still there hopefully the fuse will just blow again

crwdns2934271:0Ndz 25, 2025crwdnd2934271:0 jayeff crwdne2934271:0

Hi Jay. I was able to return the first replacement with a blown fuse for a refund. I ordered and now have a second replacement. Since there is indeed something wrong with the wiring (I'm guessing this is what you called a "fault to ground") from the white out that connects to the noise filter to the yellow in that connects to the CB, I don't want to plug in the second replacement CB if that could cause it to short. The fuses are epoxied into place with the CB in a plastic housing. They are not meant to be replaced. I would have to read the PartsJimmy return policy to see if I can tamper with it and still get a refund if I blow a fuse and then replace it.

crwdns2934271:0Ndz 27, 2025crwdnd2934271:0 S Johnson crwdne2934271:0

@sjohnson00

Probably the only thing to do now, is to disconnect the harness cables from the control board and then check each wire in a harness cable for a short circuit to earth - chassis, i.e. 0.00 Ohms on meter.

If you find any find out what the wire is used for and then disconnect it from what ever it is connected to at the other end and check again. If the short has gone, check the component, if it is still there check the wire path e.g. pinched wire against chassis etc.

crwdns2934271:0Ndz 27, 2025crwdnd2934271:0 jayeff crwdne2934271:0

Alright, did that. I couldn't find anything of the sort. All testing with components plugged in returned the values expected from the diagnostic chart or 0 ohms. Not sure what else there is to do then.

crwdns2934271:0yesterdayNhl 4, 2025crwdnd2934271:0 S Johnson crwdne2934271:0

@sjohnson00

Just confirming that no component tested 0 Ohms with the component still connected to the wire i.e. testing on component lead at the control board end (disconnected from the board) and then measuring 0 Ohms and then disconnecting lead from component and testing again to make sure it is OL and not 0 Ohms when testing between the wire and chassis?

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Micheal Inglis @michealinglis crwdns2934065:0crwdne2934065:0: 1 2 · Answer 2 · 2025-09-09T02:56:05-07:00

Your LG WM2501H washer shows two main issues: electrical and mechanical. The repeated PF errors and now a dead control board (fuse blown, no LED) point to a shorted load such as the drain pump, motor, inlet valve, door lock, or heater, drawing excess current and killing the board. The service manual’s wiring diagrams and resistance tables help isolate the culprit: each load should measure within spec (pump ~10–40 Ω, valves 1–3 kΩ, motor windings 5–15 Ω, heater 10–30 Ω) and always be open to chassis ground. Any low or grounded reading means the part is bad.

The second problem is mechanical drag. Your basket no longer spins freely. This could be a failing bearing, a jammed object between the tub and basket, or rotor/stator issues. That drag may have overworked the motor, contributing to the electrical failure.

To fix it unplug the washer, disconnect all loads from the control, and test them individually against the manual’s specs. Replace any shorted parts before installing another board, or you’ll blow its fuse again. Free the basket by checking bearings, seals, and obstructions. The gasket you found likely belongs to the tub or door seal; confirm via the exploded parts diagram.