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Repair guides, troubleshooting information, and service help for refrigerators manufactured by General Electric (GE).

Intermittent temperature fluctuations in fridge and freezer

My fridge/freezer (GE model GDS20KCSAWW) has intermittent changes in temperature. Here are my fridge/freezer temps over a 4 day period. Please note, I live alone and work Friday, Saturday 10 to 5 and Sunday 12 to 4 so absolutely no usage during those times and minimal usage when I am home outside of dinner and breakfast time.

Day/Time; first number is Fridge, Second number is Freezer/degrees in F

Friday

8:05a 39, 11

8:45a 35, 0

Saturday

7:15a 32, -8

8:20a 38, 0

8:50a 38, -5

5:15p 38, -2

Sunday

 8:15a 32, -10

11a 38, 2

11:10a 38, 8

11:15a 38, 20

11:25a 38, 12

5:20p 32, -8

6:55p 30, -8

7:30p 32, -5

Monday

 7a 35, -2

2:35p 40, 8

6:40p 42, 20

7:30p 30, 8

8:15p 42, -5

I do have a small freon leak but the freon has been tested and is fine. I feel like the refrigerator is running all the time as is the fan. I did notice a brief period today when the fridge was idle and the fan was not running…assumed it was the defrosting time?? The coils are clean, there are no obstructions and the seals are intact. Just throwing all this out there to help diagnose the potential problem. I have had 2 technicians out on 3 occasions and they can’t figure it out. The last one said lets wait and see….I’d like a more definitive answer lol After all, Labor Day is coming up and if I need a new fridge, I need to catch a sale lol

Thank you for any input!

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Hi @krp663

Has the refrigerator an ongoing small Freon leak or has it been fixed?

If it hasn't been fixed this can cause inconsistent temperature fluctuations to occur. It should really be fixed first and then check what the temperatures are like.

If it has been fixed, I assume that the service techs ran the diagnostics to check if they showed up anything and nothing was shown?

The mini manual for the refrigerator shows that is uses the adaptive defrost cycle method i.e. occurs once every 60 hours (accumulated compressor run time) and lasts for 40 minutes if the doors haven't been opened during this time. If they have it occurs more often.

To me it seems as though it's the freezer temperature sensor (thermistor) that may be the problem or it's the control board, as the refrigerator temperature seems to mainly vary between its upper and lower preset values although occasionally it is too cold but not the freezer as it gets colder and warmer than it should.

If the freezer gets colder than it is supposed to, this may also impact on the refrigerator temperature as can be seen on the air flow diagram in the mini manual..

According to the mini manual, the temperatures can be varied between 32°→ 42° (Fridge) and -5°F → 5° (Freezer). However, the compressor should be stopped when the temperatures reach their pre set minimum temp values and only start again when they exceed their pre set maximum temp values.

If it continues to run once the minimum temperatures have been reached you may have to check the thermistors (I would check both, refrigerator and freezer) to see if their resistance value is reflective of the actual temperature.

Here's the technical service guide that is also applicable to your model. On p.37 it shows the resistance values for the thermistors at given temperatures.

On p.53 it shows how to enter the diagnostic tests. Run test # 0 7 to check if the thermistors test OK. To me a "pass" may mean that they fall within a certain tolerance range but this may not be that accurate. The only way to know is to actually test them with an Ohmmeter on the control board J1 harness cable plug pins with the cable disconnected from the control board. The mini manual shows which pins are used for which thermistor. (FF = refrigerator, FZ = Freezer).

Note the temperatures in the compartments, disconnect the power from the refrigerator, unplug the J1 harness cable from the control board and then measure each thermistor's resistance to see what "temperature" they're signalling to the control board

If the thermistors test OK i.e. resistance value = temperature as indicated just before testing, then it may be the control board

If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the parts list that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the list and note the manufacturer's part number shown for it. Search online for the part number only, to find suppliers that suit you best.

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Thanks for all the info! It is over my pay grade but I will definitely share with my technician. Perhaps an opportunity for some learning or perhaps I need a new technician? Either way i appreciate you. When you say "run a diagnostic" is that like when they plug your car up and look for codes? I haven't seen either of the technicians do this they just asks questions and I provided the temp chart. He did check the freon and it was good. But 3 weeks ago, it was low and the technician charged it. Prior to that it was charged 2 years ago. The leak has never been found as I'm told it's too small🤷🏻. Thanks again, you wouldn't happen to service Houston TX lol

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@krp663

Yes.

A lot of appliances have an inbuilt diagnostic test that can be used to check if most functions are working OK or not.

They're intended for service personnel use and not owners so they're not shown in owner manuals, only service manuals.

No special tools are required to run them you just have to know what sequence of buttons to press on the control panel to enter the diagnostic test mode see p.53 of the service manual linked above.

I'm not a refrigerator repairer but I've never heard of not fixing a leak. Normally the leak is found and fixed if it can be, unless its in an inaccessible place e.g. in the insulation lining the walls.

I realize that it may not be the cheapest option doing this as it involves pumping out and storing the old Freon, and then pumping in a dye to find where the leak is, fixing the leak, pumping out the dye, creating a vacuum in the sealed system and then pumping in the Freon again and then checking if there's sufficient Freon to achieve the correct operating temps.

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Vacuum the condenser coil and purchase some coil cleaner at Lowes. Clean the condenser coil at the back of the refrigerator and use a spray bottle also to get the dust off in hard to reach places.

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Thanks for the suggestion but as noted in my post, the coils are clean😊

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