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Repair guides, disassembly, and troubleshooting information for the second generation Sony PlayStation 5 DualSense controller. Identified by model number CFI-ZCT1W and motherboard model BDM-020.

Hall Effect Upgrade Now The Triggers And Sticks Are Twitching

I have a spare genuine DualSense V2 which had a damaged right stick. Everything was working fine, just the right stick had severe stick drift. It was collecting dust for a while sitting aside so I decided to upgrade to hall effect and see if I could learn how to install using this spare controller (and maybe make it playable again).

Interesting result, so after the hall effect sticks were soldered in, this is what happens: (it alternates between the L2 R2 triggers being pressed and sticks going up-left and back again)

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When the PS button is pressed, the blue lights come on and flashes. When connecting to a laptop, all the buttons seem to work, with the white light coming on indicating the controller is connected however, every now and then you hear a click coming from the L2 and R2 triggers. The sticks seem to be rapidly inputting up-left and right-down inputs and the L2 and R2 buttons seem to be cycling between on/off even though hardware-wise they feel fine and weren't touched in the process (the motherboard was completely removed and separated from the rest of the controller when removing and installing the hall effect sticks).

Also when attempting to connect the controller to a PS5, you get three orange light flashes.

This is the state of the motherboard - it seems a couple of these ribbon connector ports melted a little during the install process (front mic and L1/2 connector) (both do still fit the ribbon cables just about) - I have a feeling these may be causing it but wanted to see if anyone had any other suggestions/thoughts?

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UPDATE: Ok so the ribbon connector port for the front mic actually fell off, it seemed when it melted, the solder connection also got loose too:

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No real change to the symptoms as a result of this port falling off - seems like this might be the primary cause?

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Hi!

Usually caused by broken traces. Please check if the traces are OK under the solder (it's hard to see with the solder already on it).

Controller should work without microphone connected. So I'm afraid broken traces it is... Sorry!

If you need any guide or anything, please let us know!

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Thank you for your answer, I’ll remove the solder and will check the traces, much appreciated!

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

My pleasure! Good luck with the repair!!

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