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Information and repair guides for dehumidifier repair, an appliance that removes humidity from the air in your home.

Hisense Model DH-35K1SJE5 does not switch on | Diagnostic Help Sought

UPDATE 30 Jun 2025: There is no power in the red wires (circled in green). Also, the fuse (circled in orange) is blown … we only just discovered the fuse this time around. Ref. Photo 9. We can readily replace the fuse, of course, but wonder if it is pointing to failure of another component? Thoughts?

ORIGINAL POST:

When we switched on our plumbed-in Hisense dehumidifier this season, it worked initially, but had stopped working (control panel had gone dark) when we checked on it the next day.

We found a manual online but it does not address how to diagnose issues.

Seeking help with how to troubleshoot/repair.

Thank you

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Hi @drillbit

Is there also a power board in the unit?

No display is either a faulty control board or no power getting to the control board.

From the images you posted I can only see a step down power transformer (see 4th image you posted) where it shows 115V AC input and 10.5V AC output.

Check when power is connected that there's the correct voltage into the transformer and out of it.

If there are the correct input and output voltages measured at the transformer, then disconnect the power to the unit and check where the transformer output wires connect to, so that you can start checking what happened to it at that point e.g. if the cables end up on the power board then the board may be faulty, although I couldn't see any obviously visible component damage on the board. Faulty Power button idk?

If there is no input voltage at the transformer, then disconnect the power to the unit and check where the input cables to the transformer connect to. It may be a faulty power cord for example

If there's an input voltage at the transformer and no output voltage, then the transformer is faulty.

Bit roundabout way of testing, but without a wiring diagram or a service manual (I couldn't find either one) it's about the best that I can think to do.

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Thank you so much @jayeff for such a detailed and helpful reply. Apologies for the delay … we were only able to get back to it today. The update is that there is no power in the red wires (circled in green). Also the fuse (circled in orange) is blown … we only just discovered the fuse this time around. Ref. Photo 9. We can readily replace the fuse, of course, but wonder if it is pointing to failure of another component? Thoughts?

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@drillbit

Fuse has flash burn marks, probably something else caused it to fail

You would need to follow where the other side of the fuse connects to. Between AC input and Power button or transformer perhaps?

One side appears to be the blue wire connected to the component above - is it the capacitor seen in image #5?

If it is then given its value (and size) it may be the run capacitor for the compressor motor or fan perhaps.

Perhaps check if the compressor motor windings and fan windings are OK i.e. not short circuit (although they may be very low resistance in the case of the compressor) and also that they're not short circuit to earth i.e. chassis.

If the dehumidifier also has a pump and if the fuse is on the AC input side of the transformer (assume that the transformer is used to supply low voltage power to the control board only) then check if it's OK also.

Check what the specifications are on the end caps of the fuse so that you get the correct replacement. Apologies if you knew to do this already

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Thank you again @jayeff, we’ll check these out (hopefully tomorrow) and get back.

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@drillbit

Another option is to disconnect the power and short out the fuse and then use an Ohmmeter to measure across the Active (hot) and Neutral pins on the power cord plug and check that it doesn't show 0.00 Ohms i.e. short circuit.

If it does then the trick is to find out where the short is.

Most probably one of the components that require the full AC supply i.e. 120V which means the compressor, fan and pump? and/or any associated components connected to them e.g. capacitors, any switches (if any) not on the control board etc.

Could also be wires touching frame but they'd have to be pinched or bare

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