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Learn about the skills that you might need to work on your device.

Grounding and Attaching Antistatic Wrist Band

I have a question about grounding and using an Antistatic wristband while repairing a cell phone or laptop computer and where to attach the other end of an antistatic wristband that has an alligator clip.

I have ruined electronic devices because of insufficient grounding.

Many articles say that the metal chassis is not suitable to attach the Antistatic wristband for the purpose of grounding.

I have personally seen electricity arc out of outlets and for clear and obvious concerns any reasonable person has, in order to be sensible and respect life which I cannot replace I will not attach the Antistatic wristband to the metal screw on an electrical outlet or a dedicated plug and plug it into an electrical outlet.

Is there a safe, economical, practical, and sure and unquestionable method which will fully guarantee proper grounding while working on a cell phone or laptop?

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Here in the US, the ground plug on an electrical outlet is required by code to be, well, literally grounded, meaning it is connected to a wire that leads to a stake in the ground, so that any electricity that gets into that wire has a path to the earth so it can dissipate harmlessly. When a metal outlet box is used, the frame of it should be connected to that ground wire as well, which is why using the metal screw on an outlet can work, but won't if it's a plastic box. So your instinct to not use the screw is okay, but not sure it's based on the right premise.

Any grounding strap in use should indeed be connected to that third pin on the electrical plug, the big round one; of course that will vary depending on which country you're in. If you really don't want to do that for whatever reason, then you need to go outside, pound a good length of rebar into the ground and hook up a wire to it. Run that wire to where your grounding station is and you're good to go!

Update (06/01/25)

I'll answer as best I can, in the order you asked, Johnathan.

A stove outlet box would make a fine ground, assuming it's metal. This is just me, but I'd probably verify for myself by turning off the breaker, unplugging it and taking the cover off. I'd be checking that the bare ground wire going to the outlet is also connected to the frame. On standard outlets that's accomplished because the ground wire connects to the metal housing of the outlet itself, which is screwed down to the outlet box, ensuring that the box is grounded. I assume you'll find a similar setup on an oven outlet as well.

Water faucets are a little trickier; if they're made with iron or copper pipe (technically lead pipes would work as well, but we're hoping you don't have those) then you've got a great ground, but many if not most modern houses are plumbed with PVC or PEX plastic pipes, which won't give you a good ground. It can get tricky; for example my house was built in the early 1980's and has copper pipe throughout, which would in itself make a good ground, but unfortunately it's supplied by plastic PVC running from the street up to the house. So I've only got a very short length of metal pipe that's actually in the ground; not enough to make my plumbing a suitable ground. If you have an older home with iron pipes coming out of the ground then you've probably got a decent ground there.

On a coaxial cable the outer sheathing is grounded, so yes that should work too. the nut on the end connects to the sheathing so clipping onto that would make a good ground.

I can't say you'd be good working outside. It depends on the conductivity of the soil; for instance dry sandy soil isn't a very good conductor so you wouldn't necessarily get a good ground even barefoot in the dirt. You need a really good connection to the earth as you'll see in the next answer.

With regard to the proper depth of a grounding rod, the National Electrical Code (NEC) specifies that a good grounding rod must be buried no less than 8 feet into the ground. This helps ensure the soil is damp enough to provide good conduction.

Hopefully that'll give you some food for thought.

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Thank you for your detailed reply. I have a few questions about this topic maybe you can also answer.

Would a modern in good condition plugged into a US wall outlet frame of an electric stove work to connect the alligator connector of an antistatic wristband band to?

Or a water faucet; would this require a test with an electric multimeter

Or the alligator clip connected to a cable television coaxial cord that is connected to a cable wall outlet

Or if all else fails and because I need to get this right and do not work on electronics every day would working outside on a nice day about 80 degrees Fahrenheit barefeet on the ground at a lawn table unquestionably work?

How deep does a rebar metal stake have to go to ensure proper grounding?

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Thank you,

I misunderstood and thought that I would be notified by email with replies to my second question and I went and after disconnecting the battery worked on the laptop outside and kept my bare foot on moist soil at a picnic table in a humid environment. I temporarily put my shoe back on and forgot and may have accidentally touched the circuit board for the lcd.

I am glad that the cable outlet is sufficient because I can’t imagine plugging myself in to an electrical outlet.

I may consider finding out if the stove outlet is grounded however the cable outlet because it is simple might save time and unnecessary research.

I will do some research to find what is exactly required for a standardized ground rod if I decide to use this unless you have a definitive reference maybe by the NEC.

I am now waiting on an anti-static wristband since I now see that I can use it before I start to work on the laptop LCD again and finish the work.

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Johnathan crwdns2934231:0crwdne2934231:0
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