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Repair and more information about the GE Refrigerator GFSS6KKXASS, a bottom freezer model with an ice dispenser, offering both drawer and door access for flexible storage, and using automatic defrost.

Freezer not cooling, fridge section normal.

G'day chaps/chappesses, I have a GE GFSS 6KK, been working fine until recently. As is common with this model it iced up when the drain tubes froze or blocked with stuff - not for the first time. Left it off to defrost and now when I switch on, the compressor runs, compressor fan runs (but not continuously) fridge evap fan runs normally, fridge evap cools rapidly and the space starts to cool. However the freezer evap does not appear to be cooling, which is strange as I thought they were common to the one condenser, both freezer evap fans run normally. I have a blinking segment on one of the digital displays, freezer side and if my info is correct it's the segment F1 e, which is not listed as a condition or fault in the sheet I have. Currently have the fans loose so I can see them running normally, all thermistors and heaters that I have tested so far appear to read normally, thermistors change value with temp. Now here's the big problem, I'm located in Brazil which makes parts and information very hard to come by. Any help or suggestions, preferably anatomically possible, would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Paul

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Hi @cabecabranca

Does the refrigerator compartment reach normal operating temperature e.g. 37°F - 40°F

What is the temperature in the freezer compartment?

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@jayeff Hello, thanks for replying. May have found one problem, purely by chance and not by a flash of genius, the condenser fan seems to have an intermittent connection. That fan seemed to run OK after finding that and the freezer section started to cool. Left it running overnight empty, no shelves etc. Set temps to the recommended -2F / 38F. Checking with a known good Fluke with temp probe shows when freezer displaying -2F it is actually about 10F, got the fridge set to 34F and measuring the temp at 40F, so guessing the thermistors may not be reading right. Going to leave it a while longer to see if the real temp keeps coming down, but guessing if the thermistor is telling the control it is at -2F when it is actually a lot warmer, then it aint going to try to cool it any more. I've set the freezer control now to -12F to see if it starts to bring it down any further. After about an hour the 'real' temp is 4F and the front panel indicates -12F

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@cabecabranca

Faulty condenser fan wouldn't help that's for sure.

What info sheet are you using?

Just asking as the mini manual is GE p/n 31-51743 but I can't find it available anywhere online.

If you haven't got it (part number is on the sheet) then here's a link that shows where it may be located in the refrigerator or if not, you can get it.

It will give you the resistance values of the thermistors at certain temperatures i.e. 0°F, 37°F & 77°F so at least you can verify if they are OK and that it isn't a control board problem.

If you can access the thermistors, usually one lead connected to it will have +5V DC on it coming from the control board. Perhaps check if this "supply voltage" is OK and not less than this value as this may affect how the control board behaves. The other lead will obviously be less than +5V due to the voltage drop across the thermistor.

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@jayeff Sheet is (probably) the one that came with it, I scanned it at the time but it is in pretty bad shape, we often run in the 80 - 90 % humidity range here and paper doesn't do too well. Thanks for the link, I should be able to get a replacement there. Looks like the freezer thermistor is toast, dug it out and resistance is way out around the 32 degree area. My data sheet says around 15 - 16 k ohms, this one is about 11.5k. 5v supply is normal. Seems that these are re-badged Samsung's, which may explain a few things and I have found a Samsung thermistor available locally, should be here in a couple of days. It's on test overnight again with the freezer setting set to as low as possible, so will see how it is in the morning. Thanks again

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@jayeff Got a thermistor that is reasonably near, GE parts are very difficult to get here, got the equivalent Samsung one which measures pretty close to the spec. Put it all back together and have had it running a few days. But here's as funny thing, I powered down to put panels back etc and when I plugged it in, it wouldn't start, the display flashes with code F1b on the second from left digit, that is listed as "Freezer fan High" on the sheet I have. For some reason or other after a while it started and ran normally again. Today, stupidly and with utmost trepidation I powered down to replace a fridge lamp. And on powering up the same thing happens. Compressor doesn't start, I hear a click, which may be the compressor motor start or possible hi pressure. No idea where to go from here, when it does run it works perfectly so there can't be a major fault.. I tried GE for the mini manual, but it seems like most places are reluctant to send stuff outside the USA at the moment. Any ideas ?

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@jayeff Main board looks OK, I've done all the poking and tapping of connectors. Cleaned every connector as well even though they all seemed OK. The initial problem was it had iced up, I was away for an extended period and it was iced up for a good while. After defrost and cleaning the drain tubes when I powered it back up this started. I tested all the evap fans on the bench and all were OK, as was the condenser fan. Powering up gives the F1 b code. Holding the energy and alarm buttons for a few seconds clears that, the freezer set point then reads -25, but can be adjusted to normal. Compressor temp is about 45 C, condenser about 35 C. After clearing the fault code at some point afterwards the compressor starts and it works normally. Today I have tried it three times , and between 5 - 7 minutes later, after cancelling the alarm, it starts. So it doesn't seem to be an intermittent fault as it can be reproduced. Other things that are probably not relevant, one of the two lamps in the fridge part stopped working, though the lamp and socket are fine - this looks like it is fed via a relay on the main board. Freezer lamp as well, same thing, lamp and socket are OK. Something, somewhere is holding off the start. If you leave the F1b code flashing it never starts. Think I'm going to take up knitting, must be easier :-)

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