crwdns2933423:0crwdne2933423:0

Repair information for the Audio Technica ATH-R70X headphones

Right ear cup swiveling too far

I noticed a snapping sound a few weeks ago when I took off my headphones, I think the right ear cup retaining clip or something has broken. Nothing was broken at that point, but now a few weeks later, I can swivel the earcup further than my left side... Is there any way to fix this? I worry about further damage developing, eventually rendering the headphones useless.

crwdns2934081:0crwdne2934081:0 crwdns2934083:0crwdne2934083:0 crwdns2934093:0crwdne2934093:0

crwdns2934109:0crwdne2934109:0

crwdns2889612:0crwdne2889612:0 0
crwdns2934285:0crwdne2934285:0

crwdns2933315:02crwdne2933315:0

crwdns2934051:0crwdne2934051:0

I actually had the exact same issue with the right ear cup. Here's how I disassembled mine:

The good part is, the main assembly comes apart pretty easily and elegantly, you just need to undo the two screws (If you have an iFixit screwdriver kit, the "J0" cross head is the exact right size for the job):

Block Image

Here's a diagram piece that shows how it all fits together (Sadly, this cropped segment is all I have from an old email with AT customer support. It doesn't actually show the part where it connects to the earcup, but it paints a picture for getting there, at least):

Block Image

Now, once you take it apart, it may all come loose instantly (like in my case), or the earcup might stay connected to the #2 "Holder Joint" piece, depending on what the damage is. I was left with the pieces in the following image:

Block Image

I have labeled the ones that are shown on the diagram with the same numbers for reference, but we are interested in the earcup connecting pin (gold arrow) and the retaining clip that goes around it & keeps it connected to the headband assembly (white arrow). In my case, the problem was that the clip had come loose.

Here's an image from the other side, to show how it's supposed to stay together:

Block Image

Note that the exact orientation of the ring (which way the opening is pointing) does not seem to be important - All that matters is that it should sit snugly under the rim of the pin, with the points of the clip in the indents on the pin.

So if the earcup is loose or turning in a weird way, the issue is probably that the retaining clip has come partially or completely loose, or that this interface point itself (or the plastic around it) has worn away/broken.

If the clip has come off but is still in one piece, like in my case, you can put it back by placing the pin on the earcup back in the hole, forcing the ends of the clip under it, and then putting enough pressure on it to slip it back into place. This process is a very fiddly three-handed affair with small components, but possible. For the last part of pushing the clip, I suggest using a wider piece of metal that gives you better leverage than just using your fingers - I managed with the back-end of a set of iFixit pliers.

Block Image
Block Image

In my case, I was able to put the retaining clip back on, but the earcup is still somewhat rattly and loose. I suspect because one of the indents on the pin has worn away, and the end of the clip that sits there wants to slip off if there is any duress. The whole thing is certainly a pretty convoluted way of attaching the earcup, but I suppose they did it this way to give the whole system a little more sideways wiggle room so it can fit different head shapes more comfortably.

EDIT: I ended up taking it apart a bit more.

First, if you take the earpad off, you'll see 4 screws at the edges of the earcup. These come out with the same cross-head screwdriver as the ones in the headband.

Block Image

Once they're out, the speaker and the outer metal grille can be simply lifted out, which just leaves the frame and the pin.

Block Image
Block Image

The pin is only held in place by the cap on the end and friction, so it can be removed pretty easily. If needed, the same screwdriver works as a punch for this.

Block Image

Once it's out, you can get a better look at how it interfaces with the clip. Can confirm the issue with mine is that one of the indents has basically worn through, and if the clip is in the wrong position (which it will end up in inevitably, if it moves around enough), it will just slip off.

Block Image
Block Image

I guess the proper fix would be to replace the pin at this point, but it doesn't seem to show up among the orderable spare parts on AT's site. So one would probably have to send a request to their customer support to see if they can provide these.

As an intermediate fix, I noticed that the pin is actually basically just an M4 screw in diameter and form factor - It's just smooth, and slightly longer than the standard 12mm long M4.

Block Image

So, if you had a 13-14mm long M4 screw and a matching nut, you could probably improvise a pretty durable (if more rigid) replacement. A similarly long M3 with some washers would probably also do the trick, while retaining some of the "wiggle factor" of the original attachment solution.

To illustrate what I mean, here's an assembly with a longer 19mm M3 screw. I can verify that the headband connection pieces will fit in place over the screw head, and the nut will fit between the speaker assembly and the earcup frame basically exactly. But, the screw needs to end where the nut ends - There is no more viable space below it.

Block Image

crwdns2934105:0crwdne2934105:0

crwdns2889612:0crwdne2889612:0 1

crwdns2944067:02crwdne2944067:0:

I disassembled my earcup and my ring was in place. I can see what looks like brass speckles/shedding on the plastic, and it looks like my brass retaining pin is definitely wearing in some way... Additionally, I found that I can swivel my ear cup further when I point it outwards. So I can see the brass on the inner-cup side vs the plastic pieces being completely flush, if that makes sense.

Is there a way to upload videos/pictures as a comment? I would like to demonstrate what I've seen/explained.

In my case it doesn't seem to happen if I try to "force" it, but rather only happens when I do the tilting of the earcup. So I guess I've diagnosed the issue, and found a probable cause in the brass pin, but still am without a solid solution yet. I could probably try to look into replacing that pin.

Thanks!

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

Sadly, it seems you can't put images in these comment replies, so I edited my original post with some more notes and images.

The short of it is, yeah, you'd probably need a new pin (or you could make a substitute out of DIY parts, if you have the right bits lying around).

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

crwdns2934285:0crwdne2934285:0

Big thanks to Harry @hk47 for helping me initially disassemble/diagnose my problem.

Fixed it with a $1.75 Shaft and $4.44 Holder Joint (x2 because I did both sides at once, and one side Holder Joint was damaged) from the Audio Technica parts department. I emailed them and they got back to me within a few days. Shaft was on backorder, but over-all experience was wonderful. Also upgraded my earpads while I was at it to make the $10 shipping cost more worthwhile... Feeling like brand new!

Block Image

If your brass rod doesn't want to come out due to burring like this, you can try cutting it with a jeweler's saw, rubbing it with sandpaper, or as a nifty trick, carefully rubbing it on concrete sidewalk/curb to deburr it and let it slide out naturally. You can see in the photo below where I accidentally rubbed the plastic bit for a second or two... Be very careful! Concrete is very abrasive, it doesn't require much! Just try to rub the burrs themselves, not the top or plastic. I used the curb on the side of the road to make it easier.

Block Image

When assembling, if you're having trouble getting clearance inserting the metal clip into the brass shaft, use something in between the shaft and the frame to temporarily push it up. I used a few pieces of sticky note paper that I cut up, about 3-5 layers deep. It made inserting the pin MUCH easier, as the hole as fully out of the plastic holder joint, and was easy to take out after.

Block Image

Here's what it looks like assembled, in my case there is no longer ANY play with the headphones besides the swivel, as intended.

Block Image

You can reference these numbers when ordering from the parts department. They should help you out parts@atus.com. I worked with Kim Netzband according to the signature, and they were absolutely wonderful!

crwdns2934105:0crwdne2934105:0

crwdns2889612:0crwdne2889612:0 0
crwdns2934285:0crwdne2934285:0

crwdns2934229:0crwdne2934229:0

Jackie crwdns2934231:0crwdne2934231:0
crwdns2936625:0crwdne2936625:0:

crwdns2936751:024crwdne2936751:0 4

crwdns2936753:07crwdne2936753:0 11

crwdns2936753:030crwdne2936753:0 67

crwdns2942667:0crwdne2942667:0 117