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Repair guides and support for all types of building materials.

Need to replace a door sill/threshold

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Our house was originally built in 1908. The cement steps in front that you see the top of, do not have your typical landing, since this was originally built as an open porch, and what you see was a step to the landing in front of the main door. In the 30's it became an enclosed porch, so the sill/threshold now acts as one more step without any landing in front of it. It is exposed to New England weather. One end is now beginning to rot and come loose. The original storm door was finally replaced in 2000 to an aluminum storm door, but instead of opening outward as you would expect, we could not do that by code (no landing), so the storm door was installed on the inside of the frame and opens inward. You will notice in the photo, the sill/threshold does not extend under the storm door frame. This causes all the rain and snow to seep under the door, since the door only hits the back side of the board. We are now starting to have trouble with the porch flooring.
The sill/threshold that is there now is shown below. It's a 2" x 8" (1 1/2" x 7 1/4" nominal) Oak Sill Nose Molding:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandr...0...
Unfortunately, the board is actually too narrow, and the door stops at the rear 1/2". In order to correctly fit a threshold, so the door rests on the high section as it should, it needs to be 8 1/2" (actual) width i.e. find a 2x10 board.

I need to replace the current sill/threshold with a wider board that will fit under the installed storm door and frame. I need to replace the wood that is there (7 1/4" wide) with a board 8 1/2" wide. That will allow the storm door to close on the top of the threshold. Originally I wanted oak, but it is only available as special order, even at hardwood suppliers. I've purchased 8/4x10 soft maple from them, but I'm not sure it would hold up.

I need to use something that will take the abuse of being stepped on, on a daily basis.

I'm hoping someone can give me some ideas.

Thanks

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crwdns2933315:02crwdne2933315:0

@recruiter you've got a planer/jointer (or a friend with one ;-) If so you could consider get 2 oak boards and joining them together. That way you could stay with your oak. Your maple is really not a bad choice. since it is actually harder then your oak but less resistant to decay. I am certain that if you keep it treated it will wear just as good if not better than the oak.

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crwdns2944067:02crwdne2944067:0:

I do have a jointer and planer, so I can mill my lumber to size. For many species, it's a matter of availability and cost.

I've thought of using mahogany, but that's even more costly, and again not available in 8/4x10 locally.

I am able to get 3/4x10 oak. I've considered taking out what is there, install a new oak sill 8" wide, then put in an oak threshold that correctly fits under the storm door frame.

The problem is, since the current board is 1 1/2" thick and is fits under the jamb, the threshold itself would probable be about 7 1/4" wide itself to fill in the height of the jamb.

It's possible, but seems awkward.

Also, will the 3/4" nose of the sill take the beating of being stepped on every day, even if it is oak?

Thanks

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

@recruiter you are right it would be awkward but you are already dealing with an awkward situation, of the door opening to the inside. That means you can't have anything on the storm door like additional gaskets etc. I'd go for it since that will at least prevent further water damage in the future. I'd think that the oak will hold up to the wear and tear of daily use just fine. Remember that necessity is the mother of invention. You got to do what you can to stop the ingress of further water.

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Door Threshold Replacement - Essential Techniques

  1. For a lasting threshold replacement, follow these pro techniques honed in extreme climates:
    1. Precision Removal
      • Cut old fasteners with an oscillating tool (use a carbide grit blade for rusted nails)
      • Preserve the sub-sill by prying upward, not outward
    2. Material Science
      • Aluminum thresholds need thermal breaks to prevent condensation
      • Solid wood requires end-grain sealing with epoxy before installation
    3. Weatherproof Installation
      • Achieve a 7° downward slope (verify with a digital angle finder)
      • Shim every 12" to prevent deflection under load
      • Seal with elastomeric urethane (3M 5200 or equivalent)
  2. Critical Tip: Test drainage before final sealing—pour water across the threshold and verify it exits completely within 10 seconds. Any pooling indicates improper slope.nal sealing.

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