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SSL 2 is an USB audio interface released in January 2020. It uses high quality components and is very easy to use.

Passive Speaker Output Fried Interface

Hello everyone!

So today I failed to use my brain - the following happened:

I tried to connect my vintage sony Hi-Fi-System to my SSL 2+ interface. Since it only has the red and black connectors for passive speakers as an output, I figured I'd simply make a makeshift cable and connect it to my interface. In the two inputs of my interface I plugged a double mono-jack to cinch cable. At the end of the cinch cable I wrapped around a wire so I could plug it into the output of the Hi-Fi player. It worked for 10 seconds, then a pop came through the speakers as if I had just unplugged them and the interface stopped working. For the most part at least.

What works:

-Power LED is on

-4k Buttons light up

-Gain LEDs work (on startup, shows gain when pushing the 4k button, blinks when dis-/enabling +48V)

-miscellanious buttons (I think)

-USB connection (is recognized by the PC, able to reset and update firmware)

What doesn't work (anymore sadly):

-input (not via mic, not via line)

-output (not via speakers, not via headphones)

What's weird:

-4k buttons glow very bright red when disabled (should be off), when enabled they glow slightly dimmer red

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4k button engaged

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4k button disengaged

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back of the board

Question:

Since part of the electronics seem to still be working I'm hopeful I could try and repair it. However, I lack the knowledge to identify which part might be faulty. Where do I start looking? How do I do it? Is it even doable (maybe too small of a part to replace by hand?)

A few quick inspections don't seem to reveal any obvious faults like undone soldering spots or popped capacitors.

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Balanced to unbalanced connection might be your problem.

Depending on the balanced audio device output design and the ability to current limit active devices in the case of output short circuit, the following scenario may develop:

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This is clearly not desirable, especially for active device outputs. Permanent damage may occur. If unsure, don’t do it. You have been warned.

read more here

I don't see any signs of magic smoke release, and without a schematic it would be very technical and time consuming to find the problem.

The issue is likely a blown output IC. You would have to figure out which IC that was and scope its i/o to verify.

All this is assuming the problem isn't something overloaded and blown in your HiFi.

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