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Repair guides, troubleshooting information, and service help for refrigerators manufactured by General Electric (GE).

Puzzle for a refrigeration genius.

I have a situation that has me completely baffled.

It’s a 23-yr-old GE side-by-side.

Here’s what’s been replaced in the past few years:

• defrost heater element

• thermistors in both freezer and fridge

• thermostat in freezer

• evaporator fan motor

• main circuit board

The last repair was the last two items in that list.

After that, the fridge worked perfectly. Actually, TOO perfectly --- I had to turn down the cooling setting for the freezer from 9 to 4 because it was going down to almost -20°F!

Everything was fine for a few weeks after that. Fridge was between 34° - 38°. Freezer hovered around 0° or just below.

Then suddenly one day the ice cubes were melting and ice cream had gone soft. I cranked the freezer back up to the 9 and it was okay for a few days but then couldn’t manage to get below 32°. Fridge was at a steady 38° - 40° and that’s all.

I presumed the new board had failed so I put in a warranty claim and got a replacement.

Unfortunately, the replacement board did not change anything.

After 24 hours, both the fridge and freezer remained at the same temps they were at with the original board. Freezer at 32°; fridge at 38°.

Needless to say, I was very disappointed. But I was determined to investigate WHY it still couldn’t achieve the correct temp.

I stuck my hand in the freezer and noticed that the air flow from the evaporator fan vents didn’t seem to be as strong as it should, or as strong as I remembered.

I thought, okay, maybe there’s an issue with the defrost heater element (even though it’s only 4 yrs. old) and there might be an ice build-up on the freezer coils and it’s blocking the air flow.

So the next day I pulled off the panel that covers the freezer coils.

Nothing there. Totally ice-free, except for a few remaining icicles still melting off two rows near the bottom.

But I decided to leave the panel off for a couple hours and see what happened. The coils frosted up nicely and the freezer went down to 4°.

So I reassembled everything (but didn’t screw it in) and waited to see what happened overnight.

Next morning, freezer and fridge were AGAIN at 32° and at 38°.

I pulled the panel off again and waited longer this time. After about 3 hours, the freezer got down to -2°F!

So I think that definitely rules out a compressor or circuit board issue.

Since the only logical conclusion appeared to be an air flow problem, I did some more examinations of the fridge ...

1. Checked the vent and damper from the freezer to the fridge. No blockage and damper is opening and closing properly.

2. Checked the defrost drainage tube to see if maybe there was an ice blockage there. Nope; totally clear.

3. Checked the condenser coils next to the compressor. Still clean except for a slight, fine layer of dust.

The only other thing I can think of related to air flow – and I REALLY hope this isn’t it – is that the new evaporator fan is not running at the proper RPM.

But when I looked at it, it looked fine. The blades were moving fast and smoothly. I have no way of measuring the RPM, of course, but it looked like the right speed to my layman’s eye.

But WHY is it suddenly not able to get enough air through that space when the panel is in place but doing fine when the panel is off?

I am totally stumped.

Can anyone help me solve this mystery?

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Hi @jamesthean91304,

What is the model number of the refrigerator?

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@jayeff

It's GSS201BPAWW. BTW, that's a Canadian model number. The U.S. one is slightly different, I think.

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@jamesthean91304

Did you replace both of the temperature sensors (thermistors) along with the defrost thermostat in the freezer compartment? (see part #241 and #242 - defrost thermostat is part #240)

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@jayeff

Yes, all are practically new. Freezer thermostat replaced about two years ago. Still looks good; no bulging or cracks. New thermistor in the fridge last August and a new thermistor was included/attached to the new evaporator fan.

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The evaporator motor fan blade could have been put on backwards or the new motor wasn’t the correct one and the windings are reversed. I’d try flipping the fan blade. If it stays on, let it run for 24 hours, then check the temperature.

I have had the vent in the dividing wall down by the crispers, freezer up with ice, lots of ice. Check both vents for ice and air flow.

It sounds like the air is flowing backwards. If we could compare the old evap motor and blade with the new one, we’d know for sure.

I agree, it sounds like an air flow issue. Please keep us updated.

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Thanks for the input, LadyTech. That's a logical possibility but unfortunately, that's not it.

I had to take the blade off the old fan motor myself to put on the new one and I was VERY careful to make sure I put it on exactly as it was on the dead motor.

I did NOT want to have to do it a second time because the space in that freezer section is so cramped. (Only 9.5" wide and the fan bracket was more than 24" from the front. Kind of a nightmare to work on! Had to do most of it one-handed.)

Also, the breeze from the fan IS going upward, which is presume is what it's supposed to do?

So ... I don't know. This just doesn't make sense to me.

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@jamesthean91304 the fan blade may be on the same but if it's a small c frame motor (which is very likely) then there IS a chance the motor itself is running backwards. If that is the case then there are 2 screws, one to either side of the shaft, that you take loose. Then pull the plates off and shaft out, flip the frame, and put it back together with the shaft coming out the opposite side of where it originally was. This is how you reverse the motor. Verify first though.

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@brandon_k You explained that much better than I can. There are many techs that don’t realize they can reverse the windings by simply flipping the shaft. It also allows the bearing to be cleaned to stop any noise or drag.

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@brandon_k

Thanks for the explanation, but ... if you'll re-read my original post, you'll see that the freezer was working perfectly after the installation. In fact, I had to turn it DOWN a bit. It was about three weeks later that this problem started. That's what I find so puzzling.

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Check the door seal carefully. You may have to pull it off to verify the door will fully close. My sister's GE had that problem.

I couldn't tell just looking at the seals when closed. After pulling the seal off, it was obvious the door was hitting something.

The bottom drawer in the freezer was holding the door open ever so slightly. I pulled the plastic off the front of the drawer and everything was fine.

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