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Repair and additional information for the Whirlpool GD5RHA*N*0* refrigerator—a 2004 side-by-side model with an ice dispenser through the door. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern GD5RHA*N*0*.

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Refrigerator cycling on and off every 5 to 10 mins

I'm looking for some troubleshooting advice for my Whirlpool refrigerator (Model: GD5RHAXNQ00). Here's a breakdown of the issues and what I've tried so far:

Initial Symptoms:

  1. A while back, I noticed the compressor was knocking against the metal inside.
  2. Around the same time, the fridge seemed to be running much more constantly than usual.
  3. My power bill showed a noticeable spike from the kitchen.
  4. I timed the fridge cycle and found it was running for 6-10 minutes, shutting off for 6-10 minutes, and then repeating this cycle continuously (short cycling).
  5. Despite the running issues, the fridge was (and still is) doing a fine job keeping things cool.

Initial Troubleshooting Steps:

  1. I managed to stabilize the compressor to stop the knocking.
  2. While checking things, I cleaned the condenser coils.
  3. I verified that the condenser fan was running correctly when the compressor was on.

Attempted Fixes & New Problems:

  1. Thermistor Replacement: I suspected the thermistor (this model only has one). After replacing it and reinstalling the temperature control unit, the fridge would no longer start running at all (it was clearly getting power, just not kicking on).
  2. Reverting Thermistor: I put the original thermistor back in, but the fridge still wouldn't start.
  3. Temperature Control Unit Replacement: Believing the control unit might have been the issue all along, I ordered a replacement unit from eBay and installed it.
  4. Current Status: The fridge now runs with the replacement control unit, BUT the original short cycling issue (6-10 mins on, 6-10 mins off) persists.

Additional Information:

  • Ice Maker Issue: Around the time the initial problems started, I was also having trouble with the ice maker (cubes were getting stuck and water was constantly running, freezing down the side of the fridge. It also got the infrared control unit wet and that stop functioning. I removed both and wrapped off the cables they were attached to.
  • New Control Unit Glitch: With the "new" (eBay) temperature control unit installed, it generally works, but after several hours, I'll find the two LED number displays blinking. This stops if I unplug the fridge and plug it back in. I've removed the unit and re-checked that all cable connections are snug.

My Question:

Given that I've replaced the temperature control unit and the short cycling issue still persists, what should my next steps be? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

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Hi @jacob44368

Wondering if there's a problem with the compressor (is it hot to the touch after 6-10 minutes?) and the overload protector is kicking in.

It could also be a faulty overload protector/start relay I suppose.

The overload protector's function is to monitor the current flowing through the compressor motor and if it senses excess current it breaks the circuit to the motor preventing more damage.

It resets itself (once its cooled down)

Here's a link to the overload and start relay from the parts list for your model, showing where it's located.

If you think that it may be the problem (and not the compressor) search online for WP2154697 to find suppliers that suit you best.

Not sure if it is applicable to the start relay in your model, but with others if you remove the relay and then gently shake it and it rattles it is faulty and should be replaced.

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Hi @jayeff

I just took the overload protector/start relay off and it rattles inside when shaking it. Ordered one and will give it a shot. Worst case I send it back, best case it works and I can sent the $100 control board back instead :)

The compressor is hot to the touch after running for 10 mins, so who knows, maybe it's just on it's way out...

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@jacob44368

You said before that you found that the compressor was knocking against the metal so it might be that one of its windings may have become damaged etc.

If you have a DMM (digital multimeter) here's a video that gives a guide on how to test all the windings (there are 3) to see if they at least have the correct resistance value.

My thinking is that if one winding were short circuit (or lower resistance than it should be) this could be a cause for the overload to kick in. The resistance values shown for the 3 windings in the video may not be exactly what the ones in your compressor are but none of them should be low resistance or short circuit (or even open circuit) i.e. OL or 0.00 ←→ 2.00 Ohms shown by the DMM.

Be safety aware and disconnect the power to the refrigerator when performing the tests.

If you suspect that the compressor is faulty then given the age of the refrigerator (I think it was first released in 2004?) it may not be economically viable to replace it. This is besides the problems associated with replacing a compressor as specialized equipment is required (refrigerator repair services have it, but usually not DIY'ers). Also depending on your location you may have to use the repairers anyway, due to the environmental regulations regarding the handling of refrigerant gases. Where I am you can't even buy refrigerant gas without an appropriate license

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Jacob crwdns2934231:0crwdne2934231:0
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