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Circuit Board traces are fried, looking for suggestions

Hello all, first time posting to these forums. I've got a general Circuit Board fixing question, and a Ribbon that's been cut.

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TOP

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BACK, also rotated 180 deg so "Photo Bottom" of the circuit board is the same on each photo.

So looks like some water/snow/ice got in and fried the circuit board. The location is indicated on the TOP image by the screwdriver. It look like the Capacitor traces jumped across to the next and caused a short. Well, those traces are now completely dead. Also, the Capacitors I believe to be fried, because the whole unit won't function. The other trace that is fried, runs to a test port on the right side, and otherwise through a series of Resistors and Transistors, they all seem fine; also visually nothing else looks "shiny" or singed.

So I think it is just the Capacitors that I need to replace. Since they are surface mounted, I am looking for alternative ways to achieve this.

  • TOP photo you can see 3 THRU holes in the board, I figure I could solder the Cathode through these. (on the BACK photo, these are a little "Upwards" from the screwdriver)
  • However, looking for the Anode connection point, and the current traces don't run very far. Would it be advisable to drill through where the screwdriver is on TOP photo, and remove (scratch/sand away) any of the trace on the BACK of the unit?
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This got cut by a razor blade (maybe by me, maybe not), and wondering what a good way to go about reattaching the leads in the most permanent way. It's a surface button, under a sticker and you can see the housing. Ideally I'd like to retain the Ribbon style, as if the button part of the label cracks open (due to over use) it will prevent water from entering the unit. (These units are used outside).

  • I was thinking just use some sandpaper to expose the leads on each part, then carefully lay some super glue on the non-contact parts and press together. Then case in Clear Nail polish.

EDIT: Re-uploaded images for full clarity

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@dedevo nah, don't use things like super glue etc. That is just not right :-) If nothing else and if you have issues with soldering, at least use something like a conductive ink pen. Chemtronics has a decent product and so do others. Here is how to use that.

Of course, I would suggest just to solder some bridges across the damaged traces. I prefer Wire Wrap Wire since it comes in very thin size. After that apply some UV solder mask instead of nail polish, which may have metal in it and may create a short circuit :-).

As for your capacitors etc. your images are not the right size to enlarge and see/find traces. Try to add some new, larger and well focused images.

Update (02/27/25)

@dedevo yep. Just run a wire as a jumper for the burned out traces. Looks like you could solder one end to the SMC component and the other one to the connector and/or the Via before that

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@oldturkey03 you're totally right about the image quality, I have re-uploaded so you can see the burnt out traces.

Where they connect to over on the right side, is just to a couple test points, so they don't actually need to be repairs per-say, though that test point is where I would put the Anode for the capacitor.

- I've tried soldering traces before, and I don't think I can get that narrow of a trace when it is so close to the next trace. Is there a technique to maybe lay flux and have it go only in a small line like that?

Also you may notice that there is a surface mount 1003 resistor that just fell off when I accidentally nudged it with my Multimeter probe, but this only connects to the ATE port, so I figure it's fine to just ignore and not replace. Though maybe it's some practice in surface mounting on a bench?

EDIT: Actually now I re-read what you said, you're saying to solder a piece of wire to connect at each end of the broken trace. So a long length of thin wire?

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If you cannot repair the trace just connect the closest parts with a new wire. Same with the ribbon cable, you can spice a few wires in or since it is only 3 wires just put all new wires to the connector end. Now the bad news... you have a multi layer board and there is obvious corrosion damage. you may not see more damage on the inter layers of the board.

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