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A desktop fridge or cooler that fits around 4-6 canned beverages. Designed to appear like a classic Coca Cola fridge.

Coca Cola Koolatron soda can fridge blinking, not starting up

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SPECS

Model Name - KWC-4C AZ

UPC - 059586510137

ASIN - B08SMQCNGX

Model Number - KWC-4C AZ UK

Brand Name - Koolatron

Refrigerant - R290 or R600a

Cooling Method - Thermoelectric

Power Plug - Type A - 2 pin (North American)

Lock Type - Electronic

Defrost System Type - Manual

Voltage - 12 Volts (DC)

Inverter Type - No Inverter

Compressor Type - solid-state compressor

Item Weight - 1.84 Kilograms

Item Dimensions - 25.4D x 17.8W x 25.4H Centimetres

Annual Energy Consumption - 235 Kilowatt Hours

A few years ago, I got my roommate this little desktop fridge to put his drinks in. After a few months, it stopped working.

When switched on, the light will blink once around every second, at the same time the fan attempts to start turning but only 'flinches' lightly. Every time it 'blinks', there's also a very tiny and soft 'zz' noise.

I've opened the fridge up, and the sound seems to be coming from the motherboard somewhere but I can't tell where exactly, or what the exact problem is. It was a bit dusty inside, but nothing really out of the ordinary and even after air dusting it, it behaves the same way.

I do see some bits that look kind of rough. The soldering job in some places looks like something I would do (weird and messy).

Any idea what I should look for or do to fix it?

EDIT: I don't know why I didn't think to do this before, but I did find my voltage tester, and found that the blue wire coming from the AC power socket does not seem to be emitting any power. Since I'm very new to this, I admittedly don't really know that much...

The question is now how should I go about fixing this, assuming this wire is the problem? I have pretty limited tools. I don't think I even have a de-soldering tool.

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Note: Since there was no entry on this device, I made a stub. I've never made an article for a device before, though.

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Hi @jacklumber

How did you measure the voltage on the blue wire?

The blue and brown wires are the 110V AC voltage input wires so if presumably if you had the mini fridge's AC power cord plugged into a wall outlet and then measured between the blue and brown wires you should measure 110V AC,¹ assuming that your location has 110V -120V AC mains power.

There's also a 12V DC input socket on the mini fridge so if you had the 12V DC power adapter plugged into the mini refrigerator and operated the switch to DC (away from AC) then there should be power on the board.

Are you testing the refrigerator using 110V AC or 12V DC connected to it?

If 110V AC try the 12V DC option and check if that works. If it does it may be a problem with the 110V AC power circuit in the refrigerator. Most probably it converts 110V AC down to 12V DC

¹ Be safety aware when measuring AC voltage as it is potentially lethal if you don't know what you're doing.

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Hey @jayeff

Apologies for the horrifically delayed reply, I've had a lot happening.

I got the result by using my electricity detector pen to test what nodes and wires were functioning. The blue wire didn't set it off.

I actually don't have a DC cord, but I could look around and let you know if it changes something.

For safety, I'm pretty cautious, although I don't have a board to test things on (can't afford much right now).

I'll get back to you after I try out your suggestions!

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I had the same problem with the same power supply, after a lot of testing I came to the conclusion that the PWM was defective but the part cannot be found, so I decided to buy a power supply on Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CSD5GWHS?ref=...

First cut the two wires coming out the power supply

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black and red (cut close to the power supply )

Second strip the ends of both wires and connect them to the female terminal connector ( included with the power supply )

Third connect the power supply to the female terminal

Fourth be carful

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