How do I change the water pump?
Grand am SE model. 2.4 L
The best and easiest way to find out is through Autozone.com
"Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the cooling system.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Do not rotate the flex coupling more than 4 degrees or damage may occur.
Oxygen Sensor (O 2 S) electrical connector
Exhaust manifold heat shield
Coolant inlet housing bolt through the exhaust manifold
Exhaust manifold brace-to-manifold bolt
Manifold-to-exhaust pipe studs
Coolant inlet housing-to-water pump cover bolt
Exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold by pulling it downward
Coolant inlet pipe from the oil pan
Brake vacuum pipe from the camshaft housing
Exhaust manifold from the cylinder head
Heater hose from the heater outlet pipe
Timing chain cover and tensioner
Water pump cover-to-engine bolts
3 water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts
Water pump and cover assembly
Water pump cover from the pump
Install or connect the following:
Water pump with a new gasket to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight
Water pump cover-to-engine bolts and tighten finger-tight
Water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts and tighten finger-tight
Coolant inlet pipe into the water pump cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight
With all gaps closed, torque the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:
Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Pump cover-to-pump assembly to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
Water pump cover-to-engine bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Coolant inlet pipe assembly-to-water pump cover bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
Install or connect the following:
Exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. Torque the nuts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
Brake vacuum pipe to the camshaft housing
Coolant inlet pipe to the oil pan. Torque the nuts to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Timing chain tensioner. Torque the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm.).
Front cover. Torque the bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Exhaust pipe to the manifold. Torque the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Exhaust manifold brace to the manifold. Torque the bolt to 41 ft. lbs. (56 Nm) and the nuts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. Torque the nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Heater hose to the heater pipe
Exhaust manifold heat shield. Torque the bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
O 2 S electrical connector
Negative battery cable
Refill the cooling system.
Start the engine and check for leaks."
If you go to you tube they probably have a video that will show you
I was figured out about leaking water from somewhere over belt and leak out long time and I wonder it's water pump or manifold but I check it drip under the pulley round belt.
I remember reading that there is a weep hole at the top of the water pump and if the bearing goes out, wears out, fails, etc, that coolant will indeed leak out. My car is a daily driver, I need her to get me to work...She's got over 101,000 miles and I haven't ever had to replace the original water pump. It's got to be getting old by now....and sinse I should get a new water pump, why not replace the timing chain while I'm at it? But I hate to think about how far you have to break it all down to get to where I want to go...I think I feel a bit lightheaded!
To much work just change the water pump.
The water pump is a pain because u have to take apart the motor pretty much ....unbolt motor mount ugh!!