Airconditioning not blowing cold air

@zoma123

As @ruggb says, it's not a DIY repair.

First you need to have UV safety glasses and a UV light to check if you can detect any signs of a leak. There's no point recharging the system if it is only going to leak out again

There's a special leak detection dye in with the refrigerant and it shows up green under UV light.

If there is a leak found you will need to have recovery/ recycling/recharging equipment so that you can safely remove any remaining refrigerant so that you can repair the leak.

After the repair you would need to pressure test the system to make sure that it is airtight and then create a vacuum in the system so that you can pump the correct amount of refrigerant back into the system and then test it to make sure that the pressure is correct and then run it to make sure that the correct temperatures are being achieved.

A lot of specialized equipment is needed by you, for just a one-off repair. Probably cost you more than getting it fixed by a professional.

If you do decide to repair it yourself, ensure that you use HFC-134A refrigerant and not CFC-12 as using this will damage the compressor.

As also mentioned above you may not even be able to get any refrigerant to recharge the system. Where I am you need a license to buy it.

Hello, generally if the AC doesn't work it's because there is not enough refrigerant, if you don't have the necessary equipment then what you can do is to verify it visually, there is port located in the engine compartment where mechanics use to recharge your car with refrigerant, remove the cap and push a screwdriver inside the port, if you don't see any gas coming out then you don't have refrigerant inside the ac circuit.

This procedure is very easy to perform, it's like removing air from a tire, but DO NOT INHALE the gas coming out, just a quick tap.

Cars can lose refrigerant if you don't use it for a long period but that doesn't mean you have a leak.

I had this issue as well, but the first thing to check is the fuse and whether the AC compressor is engaging. Depending on what AC control system you have (Normal or Integrated Control Unit, ICU for short) the issue may be a little different. The fuse you should check is F15 in the driver side fuse box (left, second from the bottom, it should be a 10 amp fuse)

The IPDM E/R controls the AC compressor's magnet clutch, it also contains a self-test which will activate all the systems it controls in this order:

1. Rear window defogger for 10 seconds
2. Front wiper motor, Low for 5 seconds then high for 5 seconds
3. Parking lamps, License plate lamps, Tail Lamps, Side marker lamps, and Front fog lamps all for 100 seconds
4. Headlamps, Low for 10 seconds then High and off five times
5. AC compressor magnet clutch (what we are looking for), ON an OFF five times
6. Cooling fan, 50% duty for 5 seconds then 100% duty for 5 seconds.

To activate the test make sure the car is off. Turn the car on (except the engine) and within 20 seconds press the driver door switch 10 times and then turn the car off (make sure the passenger door is closed when you do this). Then within 10 seconds turn the car back on and you should hear a honk, signaling the IPDM E/R self-test is starting.

If the Magnet clutch DOES engage, then check your AC system for leaks then remove the old refrigerant and charge the system with new refrigerant. the process is the same as what the others are describing, but If you need more information, the service manual is available for free on https://www.nicoclub.com.