That's right, @johnrobins41607, you are reading the meter correctly. The meter is measuring Ohms, or units of resistance. Zero Ohms does indeed mean no resistance, which is what you should see when a switch is closed.
What's going on with your dryer that you're checking the lid switch for? We'd be happy to help, but the model number of it is needed if you want some assistance.
@johnrobins41607 The model number is usually on a silver plate just inside the door jamb; you should see it when you open the dryer door. Here's where Whirlpool says it should be.
Ah, okay. Appliance Parts Pros has a page specific to your dryer with troubleshooting steps and causes for each particular problem listed.
Whirlpool Dryer LER3624EQ1 Repair and Troubleshooting
You'll want the section titled "LER3624EQ1 Won't start". In it, they list the most common faults in order of occurrence. Here's what they say to check.
- Dryer Thermal Fuse - 66% of the time
- Dryer Drive Motor - 10% of the time
- Door Latch Kit - 5% of the time
- Whirlpool Dryer Belt - 4% of the time
- Start Switch - 3% of the time
- Switch-Door - less than 1% of the time
- Female Dryer Door Catch - less than 1% of the time
- Terminal and Wire Kit - less than 1% of the time
I'm assuming the last item has to do with a bad wire terminal that needs to be replaced on some connector somewhere.
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Where do i read the model number? I have a skematic. Its electric maybe 10+ years old. Its in great shape. I plan to replace several switches next, they only cost $11 for set.
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