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13" aluminum unibody, 2.0 or 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo processor.

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Hard to explain but no power I guess.

Basically, when I try to turn on the MacBook nothing happens no fans, no screen. NOTHING!

I already tried a NVRAM and SMC reset. But no luck. I tried the no battery option with just the cord plugged in no luck still. The cord is brand new bought yesterday. And the light on the cord doesn't light up.

The BIL on the laptop flashes 1 green light multiple times past 5 times and just stops. When pressing it.

I tried so much thing to get it to work but no luck could y'all please help. This is technically the first ever MacBook I bought for $20 at a flea market. I may never afford a new MacBook at all.

EDIT: I forgot to write that the battery already was tested. It's voltage was high so it's good ad working.

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Sounds like you could have an issue with your logic board. If the system has a known good battery and charger, and you've performed an SMC reset, and it is still unable to power on, it is likely due to a hardware issue with the logic board or another component attached to the logic board. You could try disconnecting components and then attempting to power on in different configurations to see if you can isolate the failed component, but if it doesn't power on in any configuration then you probably have a failed logic board. At that point you could inspect the board for signs of damage or you could consider replacing the board. Good luck!

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Additionally, it would be a good idea to confirm that you are using the right wattage charger. 13-inches and 15-inches use different wattages, and if the battery is fully drained the device might not power on with a lower wattage charger. Good luck!

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@zpl - Good Catch!

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@ramenzack I think we just at least give you some things that you can /should check, to see which way you are going with this. Use these guides to work on your MacBook MacBook Unibody A1278

I suggest that you follow the Apple flowchart on how to test for the No Power Issues. After all, even an issue with the DC-In Board could be causing your symptoms. Check the Functional Overview and you see which part could be the culprit

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Here is what Apple recommends to check:

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Do a close inspection of your DC-in board and your logic board. Check for anything that looks odd. You can always post images of what you see, or need to know more about, with your Question. Adding images to an existing question Let us know what you find out with all of this.

Also, you said that "that the battery already was tested." but did not tell us how you tested it. A bad battery may still show some voltage but breaks down when power requirements are needed. Do not assume it is good.

Even if everything should fail, you can still replace the logic board from reliable sources, for a fraction of the cost of a new computer. It ain't dead until you say it is.

Repair is War on Entropy!

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Hold on here! If the battery checker LEDs are blinking that’s telling us the battery is bad! Basically, the cycle count has exceeded it limit.

This system first needs a good battery, then the MagSafe LED needs to go from Amber to Green to have the basics covered. Then it’s a matter of does the system startup and you might need to use the power pads.

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That's the thing... The magsafe charger never had light coming on. The only lights were the BIL. I will try a new battery. I'm going to keep you updated in a few weeks

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I hate people who knock peoples answers down with out the knowledge!

For supporting evidence here’s a similar case I just did a basic search 2011 Macbook Pro 15", no power, battery indicator flashes 5x? Even the original owners pamphlet offered a statement on this as well.

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@ramenzack - I was only referencing the batteries state. It was late and I didn’t want you going down the wrong path.

You need to walk the pathway from the charger to the logic board checking the voltage along the way.

As OldTurkey stated the DC In Board can often fail in this series as the plastic can warp within the socket so the one wire contact fails to connect. Also the MagSafe charger cord often breaks down breaking the wire or the plug pin gets stuck.

There is a process you need to work through and you may need to inspect the logic board for liquid damage or burnt components! This series had static sensitive MOSFETs which are used in the power switching and the last issue is over voltage from knock-off chargers!

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@danj so it turns out i needed a 60w charger... i got it to turn on. but i need a new logic board since it dosnt do a chime or show a screen. when will the logic boards be in stock?

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@ramenzack - What do you mean it turns on? The chargers LED is now lit? What color is it Amber or Green?

If you get to green, press and hold the power button for a good 20secs, release and press again once, did it start this time?

Is the battery checker LED’s now all lit and on steady or blinking?

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