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Yo folks, anyone knows (certainly a universal problem) why handmixer does not start immediately, but takes several minutes until turns on, then works normally? Has 3 speeds, this only occurs on 1 speed. Other speeds work normal. Any components I need to replace?
This is a German vintage handmixer ABC-MIX (1960s)
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@henriko Hello again!
I hope I remember well, it has been years when I did this. This linefilter has four leads, right? Two coming from the power plug and two from the motor!? What I did: Remove the linefilter e.g. by desoldering it. Solder the first one from the power line to one from the motor (Which one doesn't matter). Insolate the connection well with shrink tube. Repeat for the other two leads.
By the way: my old mixer still is in function after years. But my wife doesn't like it, well, yes the plastic is old and looks a little yellowish, but this has no impact to the function. We had to buy a new one from Bosch... (Anyway, its not a bad device).
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Yes, correct. Four leads, two on the left side, two on the right side. My problem was to figure out how these are (circuitry) connected, do they pass through the filter, or do the "make a U-turn" (as we know now they do somehow) so I should connect the same wires on the same side together.
Very, very good you mentioned about insulation: I do know the shrink plastic wraps that shrinks with a heat gun, but do I need them if I have secure screw connectors (that have plastic around them anyway)?
Hey would be great to see your mixer! Can you make a short YT vid? You can check mine (this mixer in action): @missmixyyt.
We'll see, if I continue with the adventures of Mixy, all depends, if I can eliminate the cracks, pops and smoke from that broadband filter now this way, but also, I need to ensure it's health-wise safe to use although it gets very hot (as it does) and can emit health hazardous fumes. Do tell your wife (you can watch together) about my Mixy creation on YT : )
And don't worry, mine is worse : )
VauWeh you should earn a medal, thanks so much for support, removed the broadband suppressor line filter, connected the two mains wires to the motor speed selection PCB the same way the broadband filter ended up to, tested it in cellar (to be on the safe side if a small explosion would occur :D :D :D ) and yes, good friend, it works totally without any flaws or difference - Thank You ! Now I will enhance the security with the new connection and do a proper endurance test in safe conditions (heating up well). Seems the mixer just got a new life although extremely worn out already. I hope you could explain to your gf about your mixer: it's environment friendlier to recycle and repair than buy new, so you did an excellent job. Also, the charm of a mixer that's has history marks and seen its best days has so much more charm than a new silly made-in-China-plastic crap cheap mixer that breaks sooner or later because of all plastic construction. My vintage German quality was built in the 60s and is of sturdy metal.
I'm glad, that it works. By the way: probably there is engraved on a sticker or metal plate, maybe only engraved somewhere on the housing the letters "KB 5 min" or similar. This means "Kurzbetriebszeit 5 Minuten", (Short time use 5 minutes) typically the time these devices can work without getting too hot. It's enough for preparing some pudding...
And yes: Repair is war on entropy!
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You should use a safety capacitor: X1, X2, Y1, or Y2 with a capacitance of 0.1 uF or 100nF.
Here's some from RS Components-UK or Germany
If you're in the US you can get the capacitors from DigiKey or Mouser
Note: On DigiKey, shipping for packages under 14 ounces is $4.99. During checkout, choose "Priority" shipping (it will have a note that it is only available for packages under 14 ounces)
If you're in a country other tham the US, the UK, or Germany, select your country from this list and copy and paste 201-1948 into the search bar, then select the search button.
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Highly appreciated Andrew, absolutely brilliant know-how! Will spare all your info for future use. This mixer is surely one unique beast, actually German quality, unbreakable - it has survived from 1960s to this day with God knows how many working hours! They made them to last in those days - mostly inner construction all in metal - compared to modern cheap plastic plague crap.
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@henriko, you mentioned that two of the three speeds work. Is the non-working speed the slowest one?
I'm thinking that capacitor has simply gotten so old that it's not working as well as it should. It's going to take more current to start up the motor at the slower speed, whereas at the higher speeds there's still enough current to turn the motor. The weakened capacitor can't store enough current to drive the motor in its high current demand, but still has enough to run them at lower currents.
I had a similar situation with my air conditioner. The fan wasn't running, but if I turned it on and manually started the blades it would spin up and run fine. Replacing the startup capacitor fixed the problem. If there's a way to do it without risking your fingers, can you try spinning the beater(s) manually and see if they start running on their own?
That is almost certainly a paper capacitor, commonly used in antique radios of that era. In those days, the paper worked fine as long as it wasn't exposed to moisture, which is why they were encased in wax.
From antiqueradio.org:
A paper capacitor may look gooey or melted, yet test OK. Conversely, it may look perfect, but test bad on a capacitor checker. The leakage is internal, caused by water vapor that invisibly penetrates the wax or plastic coating over time, no matter what the exterior looks like. Melted wax is often the result of decades of normal operating temperatures inside the radio.
When repairing antique radios, the first thing that is almost always done is to replace all the paper capacitors, and I see no reason why your vintage mixer should be any different. That last digit on the label is almost certainly "/ 4 A", which really doesn't matter in finding a replacement. Basically you're looking for a 250 V / 0.1 uF capacitor of most any kind except electrolytic. Electrolytic caps are polarized; the have a plus and minus side, where the paper ones don't, so you don't want an electrolytic. Here's an example of a kind that the antique radio buffs prefer.
uxcell 10 PCS 250V 0.1uF 2 Terminals Lead Rectangle Polyester Film Capacitors - - Amazon.com
Hope this helps; let us know how it goes!
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Actually, using a safety capacitor is important in this case, as the capacitor is connected to AC and doesn't pass through a transformer.
I was going to ask about this - do you believe there are any safety issues that could occur, with time, if the capacitor breaks (yes AC cords connected to this directly, no other components there). Appreciate highly if you believe there are any dangers or risks continuing use of this mixer.
Hi Henry,
In this particular case I'm going to go with the tried and true adage of:
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Given that the capacitor did not appear to be at fault, I'd be inclined to leave well enough alone. If it does eventually fail, it won't be catastrophic; more likely you'll see problems with starting it (again). I don't think there's a significant risk of danger even if it does fail.
Thanks Jerry for the big relief. Feels a little bit more relaxed now, sure, one would think and expect from the manufacturers that they know how the lifespan of that capacitor ends...Not giving any lady in the 60s a heart attack. Well I read this: "Capacitors should be silent. “Blown” capacitors my be silent, exhibits sounds of breakdown (humming, crackling), or — if they fail catastrophically — a very, very loud bang followed by deafening silence."
@andrewsawesome Very good point: do you think here is a significant risk of any danger involved if continuing use of this vintage mixer?
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Your mixer is a really rare device! There is one in the "Deutsches Kunststoffmuseum".
https://www.deutsches-kunststoff-museum....
Perhaps they can help you.
One piece is a "Breitbandentstörer", (broadband surpressor linefilter, often brandet ERO) containing capacitors. It is similar to this one: (use Google translate):
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You're a genius. So much info : ) Yeah I've seen this mixer in one YT channel too called Miss Mixy check it out : ) it's simply an unbreakable wonder, German quality, vintage devices mostly metal parts compared to the naive modern all-plastic plague...
I read about capacitors: "Capacitors should be silent. “Blown” capacitors my be silent, exhibits sounds of breakdown (humming, crackling), or — if they fail catastrophically — a very, very loud bang followed by deafening silence." So I'm not sure, if I can feel safe continuing use of this mixer. Do you have any experience, can they break with time in such a horrific way?
How much wires are connected to the line filter? Two, four or six? Its main purpose is - yes - filtering voltage peeks, e.g. not to disturb nearby TVs or radios. I think, the device will run without it. I have an old mixer branded ESGE, also a heavy design from the 60s, and removed the filter without any issues.
The other capacitor helps to start the motor. In former times they were made from (oiled) paper, I often replace them in old Kenwood mixers. And yes, when they burst, you can hear a loud bang and smell it, but in most cases its not really dangerous. Replace it with a modern one X2-rated tyype. Good luck!
The AC cord goes through it (1 cord on each side) so it should be 2 in total (in and out). Are you sure it functions without it and no safety issues? Did you then just cut off the filter and then solder the cords into eachother? Which other capacitor are you talking about? I can only see this broadband surpressor linefilter which contains capacitors as VauWeh says. But your comment here is utmost important: I do not want to risk hearing that loud bang in the future no matter me or a lady using the mixer.
You are right though: I read about the paper capacitor here
https://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm
Seems they are very unreliable - it's somehow though hard to believe as it has survived 60+ years now.
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Thanks! Actually found out myself the trouble - just a connection crack, could fix it! Marked with a circle : )
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Nice work, @henriko! Glad to hear you found the problem and it was something simple and repairable.
Thnx Jerry !
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Can you disassemble the mixer and take a picture of the components inside? Adding images to an existing question
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Andrew S crwdne2934271:0
Thanks Andrew appreciated. Sure, will do soon.
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Henry crwdne2934271:0
Took pictures and looked for any info inside, found these:
* on the big chunk that looks like a fuse: ...itbandentstörer / ...0,1 uF / 250 VAC 74 A or / 4 A (hard to see some of the info)
* metal case: 0463 45 / EH (?) 52 140W
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Can you see the pics? I cannot from here, do they show up?
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Henry crwdne2934271:0
@henriko On your original question, go to Options>Edit and add this after the question:
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In the future, when you want to post images, after you get into the edit menu, go to the end of the text in your question, select the image button, select the upload button, and add your pictues there.
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