I suspected moisture in touch panel so I removed, put in a warm dry place for 3-days and reinstalled. Issue returned after a few hours. I noticed there is a common power line specifically for those three (3) LEDs. Similarly there's a common power line for the switches and each switch has its own ground .. apparently the switch and LED share this ground. It seems logical that the problem is within this control panel / ribbon cable and not likely in the PC board. Anyone with similar experience have an opinion ??
I'm pretty sure the last two sockets in the 14 pin connector are slightly shorted to each other internally. I actually clipped pin 14 on the board so its no longer connected to board. As long as pin 14 is inserted, power from 13 bleeds over and leds are back on dim. So, my new request is .. anyone know how to remove cable from connector ? It looks like a single-use connector with barbs/ hooks to bite cable. Not sure I should pry open, possibly destroy or try to slide in a credit card or similar on either side to release the barbs ? Appreciate a ribbon cable connector expert advice. Thanks
Kinda surprised I got NO responses or comments whatsoever but, thats fine. I'll update my saga for the benefit of others. I have since removed the pin-14 portion of the ribbon, I pryed open the corner of the connector to get a better look inside and the corner broke off. Was actually good since I could now see the method by which the ribbon conductor attached to pin (actually a socket contact). I removed that one and sliced ribbon to double-back that one conductor, now without a contact. Bogas LEDs have stayed off for a few weeks. I see this as a confirmation that the one-time-use cheapo connector was indeed the source of a short. I know I can reconnect 'around' the connect if we want to (not-pretty but functional). Frankly we don't need .. we know which button(s) we hit, if in doubt we can start over (button sequence). Working fine & no more bogas LEDs.
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Update (7/09/2025)
***Another LED has been occasionally lighting, then goes off by itself, specifically the HEAT/DRY one. Didn't think much about it but then we went to use it and it wouldn't come on at all. I took off the control panel and checked with my meter. All the buttons read about 900 ohms when pressed and open when released except NORMAL .. this one shows about 2000 ohms when released and of course that's what we hit before START. I'm still on the fence as I can rig a 2-way momentary switch to actuate NORMAL one way and START the other way and it'll run the cycle, we think, there are random indications along the way. It seems we can't get one of these control panels anymore and if we could it isn't gonna be cheap. I hate these darn touch panels. Will likely start looking for a new DW.
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