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Repair and information guide for the GE Refrigerator GFE26GMH****—a French Door style refrigerator with bottom-mounted freezer, automatic ice maker, and through-the-door service feature, introduced in 2014. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern GFE26GMH****.

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No water, no ice and no freezer light, suggestions?

Model GFE26GMHFES, French Door, Bottom Freezer

I have no water, no ice and no freezer light. I no longer have the option/display on the front control to turn on/off the ice maker. It all happened at the same time. I have good water pressure. The water does not flow past the water valve in the back bottom of refrigerator. I replaced the water valve. Still does not receive the signal to send the water. I have tried everything here to include Sabbath mode and all the other “pressing/holding” buttons.

I have replaced the board for controls, water/ice valve inside left door, freezer light, and freezer door switch. I am bypassing the water filter with the bypass plug (tried a new filter also). Everything else is working fine.

When this happened, my fridge wasn’t cooling as well as it should. I had a repair guy come and look at my fridge and he replaced the fan in the refrigerator section. He spent the next hour trying to figure out the rest. He was frustrated and couldn’t fix it. Any ideas?

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I have the same problem. No water or ice will dispense and the freezer light went out all at the same time. All this started working again about six weeks later for about a week before going out again and has been out since. Repair man could not find the the problem.

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@ojohnson98257

What is the model number of your refrigerator?

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Hi @dzdrojewski ,

Was it working OK except for the cooling problem, before the repairer replaced the fan?

Check the main AC/DC door board to see if the -12V DC and +12V DC voltages (pins J3 /20 and J3/17 respectively) and also the 3V DC for the freezer led lights, pins J3/3 (-ve leg) and J3/5 (+ve leg) are there and correct.

If both of the 12V supplies on the door board are OK check that there is also -12V DC and +12V DC on pins J2/4 and J2/6 of the dispenser board. If not, there may be a problem in the harness wiring somewhere.

Here’s an image from the section in the mini manual for your model showing the boards’ pinouts and a part of the wiring.

Block Image

(click on image to enlarge and then click on the image again to further enlarge it).

Be safety aware as the is also lethal AC voltage on the door board

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I have this exact same problem on my GE fridge. Repair person has been out 3 times and replace the door switches and most recently 2 boards. It works intermittently then stops. Any thoughts?

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@johnwacker

Please confirm the model number of your refrigerator?

If it is the same as above then it may be a wiring problem i.e. fractured wire or loose connection somewhere.

See the answer above what to check

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Hi Jayeff,

The model number is, PFE28KYNFFS

Thank you so much for your help, I really appreciate it. It will randomly work, then stop.

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@johnwacker

The lights and dispenser function power supplies are provided by the door board at the top of the dispenser door but presumably since it has been replaced it may be as I suggested a wiring problem. (scroll right through the diagrams to find the dispenser parts - part #195)

It could be that the main AC power supply to this board is intermittently open.

Unfortunately I cannot find the service manual online for your model (GE p/n 31-1000526) as it may have the wiring harness layout diagrams showing how the wiring is run in the refrigerator.

It could be a problem with a harness through connector as presumably all the other functions that rely on AC power in the refrigerator are OK, but this is only a guess

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SOLVED! Late to the party but I had this exact problem. Model GFE28GYNHFS. No ice or water and freezer door light out. Replacing the door board, main board, fridge door switches, and freezer door switch did not fix. Following @jayeff's suggestion, tested the 12V supplies to the door board and was only reading 3V (pins J3 /20 and J3/17 respectively). This narrowed it down to a poor DC power supply to the door board. Followed the wiring diagram to the DC power supple connections off the main board in the back and these read 12V so the problem was in the DC wiring from the main board to the door board. Checked the wiring harness under the plate above the door for the connector that runs through the door arm and it was loose. Tightened the wiring harness up and got a nice 12V reading DC to the door board and everything works good as new!

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