Troubleshooting; Broken Vibration Wire and Screen not Powering on
First off let me say I am not super knowledgeable about how delicate certain parts can be. None of the self help videos I watched warned what might happen when attempting to pull difficult wires. My ignorance of this resulted in one of the problems listed below. I needed to repair a cracked LCD in the gamepad but I hit a few problems along the way. After putting in the new screen when I press the power button on the gamepad the display will not turn on and a little blue light shines under “Battery” and slowly fades out. That being said I can turn my Wii U console on and off with this power button. The console itself can also be controlled with the gamepad and all buttons function normally with the exception of anything needing the touchscreen. The sound also does not function on the gamepad.
- Issue #1
- As soon as I removed the back of the case I ended up yanking the vibration motor’s two cables right out of their seats, leaving behind the cream colored plastic part still stuck inside the mainboard. I tried a lot of things to pry that piece out but got it in the end, that sucker did not want to come out. I feel it’ll be easier just to buy a replacement for that unless it’s possible to hot glue those pieces back in? It’s really difficult to align those cables back in and there’s no way I’m going to worry about soldering. If there might be other ways to fix this I’m all ears, but I never used the vibration function so I am perfectly fine if I can be without it. Would there be a way to bypass this and make the gamepad think it’s still connected?
- Issue #2
- The sound control slider doesn’t want to stay nice and tight like it used to. I can’t exactly figure out why it is doing this but it’s extremely loose and just wobbles freely back and forth after closing the gamepad back up. I have it fitted perfectly into the slot it’s supposed to be in. Is it supposed to be connected to something?
- Issue #3
- Gamepad display will not turn on now. I feel this could be for one of two reasons. Either it’s the fact the gamepad doesn’t detect the motor plugged in and just refuses to turn on because of that or I got a DoA LCD. I’m hoping it might be the former. I’m wondering if a properly working motor will fix this issue. I know how Nintendo likes to brick entire systems if one benign part stops working in them. Since it was such a hassle I don’t want to put my old LCD back in to test if this new one is DoA before getting some answers here.
I do have a few other questions as well regarding the ribbon cables for the LCD and digitizer. The two very tiny ribbon cables confuse me exactly how they are held in. Is there nothing really keeping them held down? The other ribbons have those clamps to keep them in place but these just get shoved in and hope for the best? I’m afraid to pry around them since I feel I’ll cause irreparable damage. Is it possible I missed something with those two and I just don’t have them plugged in? How exactly can I tell if I even have them in right?
Finally somewhere down the line I got my screw locations mixed up and a few just seem to be missing, even though I know I lost none as I took them out. I have 4 tri-point that I have no idea where they go. I did not realize there were three types of screws inside: Tri-point, larger head phillips, and smaller head phillips. I did not notice this until I was putting it back together and some screws weren’t fitting quite right. So I’m not sure where these should all be in the end. Everything is securely seated and nothing feels loose so I’m thinking this isn’t really causing my problems.