GE Monogram Refrigerator Freezing Up

Hi @cruiseman ,

What is the model number of your fridge?

Have you checked that the damper from the freezer to the fridge is not stuck in the open position, allowing the freezer air to travel into the fridge?

It should do this normally but when the set temp is reached in the fridge it should close off, preventing further cold air entering

Model number is ZISS420DMCS

I removed the upper panel to check the damper unit, and I cannot find it. What is really weird, is when I replaced the panel (4 screws), closed the door and re-opened the door, now the 2 halogen lights are out! I looked at the wires and they are fine.

As you can see in the photo on the original post, all my lights are working, even the back light and the 2 halogens are not working now.

Not sure where the damper assy is. I took a photo and will try to post it to my original question.

UPDATE: Just checked the fridge again, and the lights are working. Maybe there is a temperature shut-off?

Thanks!

Hi @cruiseman ,

There is a air damper part #367 shown in the fresh food section diagram

here is a link to the spare parts for your fridge.

In the 'fridge section (shown in the freezer exploded view diagram) it shows a rear duct (part #733) but that is all and a couple of baffles around the evap unit.

EDIT:

There is also this which may be of some help, unless this is the one you 'd already changed

Jeff,

I removed the silicone holding the Styrofoam "box" around the damper unit so I could see the damper. When I removed the foam box, the damper door was CLOSED. I turned the temp down to 40, closed the door and in a few seconds, checked again, and the damper was OPEN. This indicates to me that the damper door is functioning, at least the door mech is not frozen open.

I am a little stumped at this point. Something must be keeping the damper door open.

Hi @cruiseman ,

Try placing a thermometer in the fridge at the bottom (and the freezer if you have that many) to verify that the temperature indicated by the control panel, when viewing the actual temp, is what is actually in the fridge (freezer) within a degree or so anyway

Wondering if the control board is out and therefore thinking that it is warmer than it actually is. With the freezer it wouldn't be so noticeable as you mightn't be able to physically distinguish between 5F or 0F, whereas between 37F and 32F in the fridge you would if you get my drift

You've replaced the thermistors so I'm assuming that they are sending the correct resistance reading (relative to the temp) to the control unit, but maybe the problem is there.

Does the compressor run continuously? It may be a bit hard to know, what with normal activity of the doors opening and closing and cold is lost from the fridge. Check first thing in the a.m. as the fridge has had all night to get to the correct temp, so the compressor shouldn't be running trying to get it colder (unless an auto defrost has just finished and it is trying to get the freezer cold again)