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Quick question about Power adapters.

So my issue is that I got this router after replacing one (this is the older one) and the power adapter for it will overheat after 30-60 minutes. then I have to unplug it for 15 or so minutes. Can I use a different one with a slightly different output? I used the slightly higher one for 1 minute and it seemed to work fine. I can't use the old one it still overheats with a thermal pad and heatsink taped to it.

Router input:

12 Volts .5 Amps

Original router power adapter:

12 Volts .5 Amps

Power adapter from a Police Scanner:

13.8 Volts 750 MilliAmps

would this be fine?

UPDATE

Hm. Now that I think about it, I don't really want to try to open the power adapter. I don't feel confident enough in my skills of soldering to solder a new part on a adapter that handles 120 Volts and 15 amps. I've seen what happens if outlets short. (one time my little brother stuck a multimeters prongs into an outlet to see how much power comes out of it. He was okay though. Can't say the same about the outlet or the multimeter. the outlet looked something like this.)

UPDATE

Okay so I found a 100 milliAmp 12 Volts DC power adapter, while the router .5 Amps (500 milliAmps) 12VDC would this be Okay? or would the router put too much stress on the power adapter since the power adapter is 4x less amperage?

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Hi @captainsnowball ,

Being 1.8V higher than the requirement might or might not pose a problem. It depends on the design characteristics of the router, whether the components are able to work with a 15% higher voltage supply. It might place extra stress on the components that may shorten their lifespan. If the router doesn't seem to get any hotter than normal it may be alright.

I'm assuming that the 13.8V adapter supplies the same type of voltage as the faulty adapter. i.e. AC or DC - you didn't say,

With regards to the faulty adapter overheating, what is its' voltage output? If it is not as specified (especially when it has heated up) then open it up and check it out. In a lot of cases I have found that it is one of the capacitors inside that has gone faulty (domed or leaking).

The simple way to open an adapter which has been plastic welded and not screwed closed is to get a paint scraper (usually with a 1"-1.5" blade) and placing the blade in the weld "seam" give it a sharp tap with a hammer. This usually will crack the case open along the seam. Of course if you tap it too hard you will smash the case. After the repair you can just tape the case shut again.

Update (12/17/2017)

Hi @captainsnowball ,

A 12V 0.1A adapter wouldn't work as the requirements for the router are 12V 0.5A.

Also where does the 15A figure come from?

The adapter plugs into an outlet that handles 15A but its' design ensures that it doesn't have that much current flowing through it (unless it developed a s/c or something)

Aiden, It's not working anyway so open it up, that's how you find out about things. You may be surprised at the wiring gauge used.

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crwdns2944067:07crwdne2944067:0:

Ah yes they were both DC. Let me give your answer a shot. (this is an old router about 10 years)

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Its not budging

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

Hi @captainsnowball ,

What's not budging?

If it's the adapter, check for a screw under the label.

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No screw. as far as I can tell

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

Hi @captainsnowball ,

It it has a seam all around try tapping on different sides or since it doesn't work properly anyway, tap a bit harder ;-)

If you have a vise, try gently squeezing it along the seam line in the vise

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.

The original was 12v x 0.5a = 6W.

The new one is 13.8v x 0.75a = 10.35W

Honestly, if its almost double the wattage, it may cause damage.

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Hi @avanteguarde

The voltage is more the problem than the current.

Just because the adapter can supply 0.75A doesn't mean that it will supply that much to the router. They are usually a constant voltage source not a constant current source.

I =E/R if E increased but R stays the same then I increases but whether it increases enough to harm the components depends on their tolerances and the design of the circuit

Cheers ;-)

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Yes, I know. But the Amperage is still higher.

Also, regarding disassembling plugs. US plugs are not as easily disassembled as UK ones. There is no simple screw or seam you normally can take apart to see if the wires came loose. All US plugs come from the factory already assembled and not intended to be disassembled. I know the UK ones were self assemble until about 1994, but thats not the case in the States.

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Hi @avanteguarde ,

It's the same here in Aust.

But everything nowadays seems to be made in China anyway so it varies as to the manufacture. Some adapter cases have screws (with anti-tamper screws and deep narrow shafts so specially sized drivers are needed), some are plastic welded cases (with or without screws hidden under label) and others are molded so that the only way to open them is to destroy them.

Cheers ;-)

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The power rating on an adapter is the maximum power that it can deliver. If you have a 12V 1A adapter, it can be used in this situation. I CAN deliver more power if needed, but WILL deliver the 0.5A that the router requires since that is what the router will request. Think of it this way: In your house, each circuit CAN deliver either 15A or 20A depending upon the breaker for that circuit. When you turn on a TV, does it use 15A or 20A, NO. It uses the power it requires only. Similarly here, the router will only use what power it requires, so using an adapter than can deliver more is OK.

In regards to the different voltage rating: That will depend upon the router itself. Many devices have a voltage regulator as one of the first components on the power line to regulate the input voltage to what the device wants. If this is the case with the router, using a 13V adapter should not be a problem. In general however, I would not recommend using a different voltage adapter. It is too risky. Higher current capability is OK, higher voltage not OK.

Dan

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