crwdns2934065:0crwdne2934065:0: 109
2
2
Need info on my LT2000 Craftsman riding mower. On adjusting the brake/clutch pedal. The tractor will not stop any longer when you push the pedal all the way. It also is having trouble on hills like the belt that drives it is slipping and needs to also be adjusted, or does one adjustment take care of both, Any help greatly appreciated.
crwdns2934109:0crwdne2934109:0
crwdns2934065:0crwdne2934065:0: 25
1
Brake pads may be worn-out. Look at the transaxle diagram on Sears partsDirect.com for your model. The brake cable spring should be compressed to 1 1/2" (at rest) to be properly adjusted.
crwdns2934105:0crwdne2934105:0
I have the same exact problem, My cable spring is compressed to 1 1/2" (at rest) and it still won't stop when I push the brake, my brake pads are good.
Everytime I put it in gear and hold the brake down it moves. Can this problem be the drive belt?
@anth30 no. the belts do what they are supposed to. Move your mower. your brakes are not doing what they are supposed to which is stoping your mower.
I removed my deck, treated it with POR15, replaced spindles,pulleys, belts and blades. When I remounted it, it does as stated above. In gear, it moves. Brake/clutch pedal has little or no effect. Shifter won’t come out of gear. Had to shut it down. help, please and thank you.
My mower powered down with brakes applied does not move. When it is running, will not stop. Looks to be an adjustment that can be made to the clutch assembly, before the brake assembly, but have yet to adjust it any.
Link posted below with a diagram, Ill attempt this at a later time.
crwdns2934065:0crwdne2934065:0: 13
2
There are two small 1/4” pins inside the “caliper” they get rusted up. Jack up the rear of mower between rear tires. Remove the right rear wheel to access the brakes, you may need to use a heat gun to get the dust cup off to remove the washers and clip. Remove the washer and cotter pin from the brake line. Remove the two outer bolts (on either side of the caliper) and slide /remove the caliper from the mower. Place the brake pad and backing plate off to the side. On a workbench remove the spring, and center nut — then slide the washer and armature off the caliper. Clean dirt, grass, and goop off the caliper with brake cleaner. Soak pins with penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Use a hammer and tap the pins with a scrap/spare bolt, and gently work the pins back and forth until you free them from the caliper. They will be rusted up. Use steel wool, penetrating oil and some 500 grit sandpaper to clean the pins and the inner holes on the caliper. Clean the entire unit. Then apply a generous brushing of anti-seize compound onto each pin, and tap them with the bolt and hammer back into the holes. Reassemble center armature and put spring back on. Put the backing plate and brake shoe back into place and reattach to the mower. It should work as it did beforehand. You can also replace the brake shoe before putting back on. It took me about an hour to do this myself.
crwdns2934105:0crwdne2934105:0
My craftsman lawn tractor 2000(grey)I cannot press the clutch pedal as it is solid? Would anyone know the problem and could comment,thankyou so much joe south lakes?
Why will my clutch pedal not press down it is stuck solid,would anyone know please it's a craftsman 2000tractor?Thankyou joe south lakes cumbria.
Is there a mobile fitter in the south lakes area that could do this as I'm 70yrs old and cannot do this thankyou so much joe?
I searched and searched the web for all the wrong things.
My mower was running fine, then I heard a gentle "clunk" noise and suddenly my lt2000 wouldn't stop its forward motion (except by way of the tree I was trimming around). I put it in reverse to back away from the tree and then it wouldn't stop it's reverse motion. After searching the web for which part of the clutch I must have broken, I stumbled upon this site. Then I figured it out.
The rear drive shaft (located below the seat) engages when the belt is firmly seated inside the pulley woth full tension. Without tension, the belt loosely circulates around the pulley and there is no drive action initiated. When the belt goes bad, it stays engaged on the pulley and keeps the mower in drive. It can also happen if the tensioner pulley or spring goes bad.
So if your mower won't disengage from a drive motion when you have the brake/"clutch" pedal depressed, it most certainly has something to do with your drive belt or tensioner pulley.
crwdns2934105:0crwdne2934105:0
crwdns2936751:024crwdne2936751:0 5
crwdns2936753:07crwdne2936753:0 65
crwdns2936753:030crwdne2936753:0 275
crwdns2942667:0crwdne2942667:0 27,876
crwdns2944067:06crwdne2944067:0
I think the clutch and brake are both adjusted at the same point, at the rear brake assembly. There are some belt adjustments, but I'm not sure they apply for this.
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Jim Mike crwdne2934271:0
when i let out the clutch i get a grinding sound, i do have brakes
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 victoriawinters14 crwdne2934271:0
I have to have my brake halfway in then push the lever forward for the mower to go forward or reverse its gotta be something broken inside the transmission the lever does nothing when the brake is off but the mower will move when you push the brake pedal halfway down on the craftsmen 917.271080 model. I think my problem is inside the transmission not no simple spring on the outside
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Turtle Frog crwdne2934271:0
Recently I bought a Lt2000 Craftsman Briggs Stratton 17.5 42”, just change the drive belt on and now started problems with the new belt jumped it out of the guide pulley and not clutch return, so the mower keep running and to stop it I have to turn off it.
Thanks in advance,
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Juan Jirau crwdne2934271:0
When I push the brake clutch pedal in and then release it it makes all kinds of npines of noises what is causing this
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 William Johnson crwdne2934271:0
crwdns2934273:01crwdne2934273:0