crwdns2934065:0crwdne2934065:0: 73
2
2
Normal light keeps flashing on Whirlpool Gold Quiet Partner III. Tried resetting by cutting electric. Comes back on. Is there a sequence that works to run diagnostics?
crwdns2934109:0crwdne2934109:0
crwdns2934065:0crwdne2934065:0: 688crwdns2936485:0crwdne2936485:0
3.6crwdns2936485:0crwdne2936485:0
1.1crwdns2936485:0crwdne2936485:0
2.6crwdns2936485:0crwdne2936485:0
CHECKING KEYPAD OPERATION
A rapidly blinking LED over one of the keys of the keypad (or sometimes a “dead” keypad/console)
indicates one or more key switch lines are stuck or shorted on either the control or the keypad.
To determine if the control or keypad is faulty, do the following test:
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Open the dishwasher door.
3. Open console and disconnect the keypad ribbon connection from the control (at P1).
Make sure all other connections are made.
4. Put console back together. Do not close the dishwasher door.
5. Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power.
6. Wait 5 seconds.
7. Close dishwasher door.
8. Monitor the control’s response:
➔If the control is OK (no longer sees shorts with the keypad unplugged),
it will respond by turning on a Drain Motor for 2 minutes.
Check and/or replace the keypad if the control responds OK.
➔If the control is not OK (still sees shorts with the keypad unplugged),
then the drain motor will NOT respond and will remain off.
crwdns2934105:0crwdne2934105:0
Thanks Mayer! I will try this in just a bit. I anticipate P1 is pretty easy to find if I unscrew and get to the heart of the control panel? (Have done work with ribbon cables on my Samsung microwave before.) Will let you know how it turns out!
Followed your steps and put everything back together and it works! Thanks!
Thank you Mayer. This post had helped me twice now. I followed your steps and drain motor did ran for 2 minutes. That confirmed control was OK, then (on my first attempt - few months ago) I started examining if any button feels stuck, I noticed all buttons except Cancel produce a small pop up sound when you push and then release. So I thought I've found the culprit. I tried a workaround by inserting a thin needle behind that button and tried to pop it up manually. Then I put the cable and everything back and turned on the dishwasher (followed your steps 4-7 before turning it on). And it started working!!!
It continued to work for 3 months and today the quick flashing lights came back again. The first thing I try is to pop up the cancel button again but it didnt't helped. Then tried resetting dishwasher following key press sequence methods you suggested in other posts before opening it but eventually tried these instructions and it worked again!!!
Now I am wondering what the real issue is. Is it really the Cancel button that was stuck before and today but it require the whole sequence of undoing the cable and running drain motor to reset the dishwasher. Or the Cancel button has nothing to do with it, just your steps 1-8 made it worked both time? Should I get a new key panel anyways otherwise this issue will keep repeating?
Appreciate your guidance.
Same problem. I followed his steps and mine started working too. I didn’t try popping out any buttons even though my cancel button felt and sounded different too. I believe it was just the steps that solved the problem.
I found this post when looking for solutions to the Normal light fast flashing.
I went through the steps; the drain motor did NOT come on with the keyboard disconnected. Once I reconnected everything the Normal light was not flashing anymore and I was able to start the dishwasher.
If/when the Normal light starts up again I'll have a good idea of what to do. I may just go ahead and look into ordering the Console.
Mayer, thanks for a great article!
crwdns2934065:0crwdne2934065:0: 1
1
Problem with Whirlpool Gold Quiet Partner II —> Constantly blinking ‘Normal’ light. Turning power off and on does not solve (or modifies) the issue. Btw, two other buttons (i.e. light and rinse) their lights are lit but very dim, I had to be REALLY close to notice that. Is this an indication that I have “stuck” buttons and the console but not the control panel needs to be replaced. Where can I download a service manual for this appliance. Whatever it takes I can definitely tackle myself, my problem is that I do not have a methodical way of trouble shooting. I certainly do not want to call for a repairman (ABT in the NW suburbs of Chicago) they charge an arm and a leg just to show up to your door, parts are of course extra and it is usually something so stupidly simple such as a part replacement or a disconnected wire. Please help if you can, thanks!
[I can be reached at this email: R1100RA(at)gmail(dot)com]
crwdns2934105:0crwdne2934105:0
@mayer Having similar issues with my older model, purchased in 2008, Quiet Partner II. The Normal and Cancel button lights are flashing while the Soak & Scour light is on constantly, no flashing. Would greatly appreciate your advice.
Hi @C. Lawrence , did you able to resolved your dishwasher (Normal and Cancel button lights are flashing) issue? Because, my Whirlpool Quiet Partner II is behaving exactly as you described. I tried to unplug the power, but it didn't resolve this issue.
Try this method. https://youtu.be/zqin1b1gmNk
I tried to turn breaker off and checked all connections and it tuned out to be a capacitor that was bad on the board. So before you spend $200 on a new board give this a try.
crwdns2934105:0crwdne2934105:0
crwdns2934065:0crwdne2934065:0: 1
1
I also had this problem with my Whirlpool Quiet Partner II. Mine also suffered from the pesky issue where the thermal cut off (TCO) fuse inside the control board compartment trips halfway through the cycle cutting power to the dishwasher and all that for no apparent reason.
The first issue as very correctly Mayer above has already explained is either a control board or a front console malfunction. The method suggested for troubleshooting and identifying the problem is very sound.
My experience is that if the control board fails first that's usually one or two bad capacitors that can be easily replaced. However a capacitor will fail because the ambient operating temperature is higher than what it should be. This is where the TCO comes in. If the operating temperature inside the control compartment is too high the fuse will trip and stops damage to the control board. But sometimes the damage has already been done.
In my opinion the front console could also be the culprit if there are any stuck buttons or even if the foil inside the buttons gets corroded it will produce spurious connections/voltages which can damage the control board.
In my case I discovered it was both: I had a bad front console AND a damaged control board. If you look around long and diligently enough you will be able to find replacement parts. Do not buy brand new OEM directly from Whirlpool they're too expensive go for refurbished or used from Amazon or ebay, etc. In my case I was able to find both parts spending less than $200, which was worth it, since my dishwasher has been working flawlessly for the past 3-4 years now.
Final note, if you are experiencing the TCO fuse blowing up all the time, there is a working safe solution for that as well, feel free to email me at R1100RA(at)gMail(dot)com and I will send you very detailed instructions at no cost.
crwdns2934105:0crwdne2934105:0
crwdns2936751:024crwdne2936751:0 4
crwdns2936753:07crwdne2936753:0 50
crwdns2936753:030crwdne2936753:0 207
crwdns2942667:0crwdne2942667:0 57,448
crwdns2944067:05crwdne2944067:0
My quiet partner I, stop working, START AND CANCEL/DRAIN button won’t light on(work). opened the console, found that green ribbon has two line broken, tried to use thin copper wire to connect the broken point, but cancel/drain light is always on, any suggestion?
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Ben K crwdne2934271:0
I tried all the buttons on the front panel after trying the heat dry button suggested for weeks.... when I finally was giving up and decided I couldn't break what was already broken to open the panel ... my phillips screwdriver didn't work so I took the handle and started lightly tapping across the top of the panel and the light went off immediately. I opened the door closed it again and it allowed me to start a wash cycle... praise the LORD... Oh I forgot to mention I prayed over it....
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Linda Whetstone crwdne2934271:0
Normal button flashing and heat dry will not go on. Press cancel and it’s now flashing. Tried removing ribbon etc. and it did drain for 2 min. Reinstalled and normal still flashing nothing lease happens.
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Mike crwdne2934271:0
OMG. Worked like a charm! Thank you so much (8 years later!)
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Dan Proskauer crwdne2934271:0
So if pump comes on whitout P1 ribbon canle and when reassembled normal light still fais, I need to replace the outside control panel WPW10459139?
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 PatD crwdne2934271:0