Wont start after replacing starter solanoid assembly

Question

1990-1993 Honda Accord

The fourth generation of Honda Accord covering model years 1990 through 1993 available in coupe, sedan, and wagon chassis.

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Nicole Krauth @nikkimarie

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crwdns2931729:0crwdne2931729:0: Sun 16, 2016

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Wont start after replacing starter solanoid assembly

I have a 1991 honda accord ls automatic. Replaced the starter solanoid assembly (all in one piece) after trying to start the car and got nothing but "click,click,click" when turning the key to the start position. Still had that issue when i replaced it, my grandfather "jumped" the starter (as he called it) by using a screw driver to connect the wire that goes from the key in the ifnition to the other wire, it made a really loud grinding noise and started after that, we let the car run for a few minutes then shut it off to try and start it again, "click click click" so he did it again. Anyways, now we cant get it to start even when doing that. I think my grandfather fried the starter doing that. What can i do to figure out what is causing this? And yes i checked the battery.

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crwdns2947414:01crwdne2947414:0

Similar Problem. New stater. checked all cables, seems ok and new battery. At time it start at times its just a click, and does not start or takes a few seconds then starts while i hold the key on

crwdns2934271:0Nhl 5, 2018crwdnd2934271:0 royhla crwdne2934271:0

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Noah Ackerman @nack

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crwdns2931729:0crwdne2931729:0: Sun 19, 2016

crwdns2933897:0crwdne2933897:0

Go back to basics - check that battery, cables, and connection are all good. If so, then replace the solenoid again (make sure you are using a NEW solenoid, the high current contacts in the solenoid are the primary failure point in almost all nippon-denso starters). Do not assume that the battery is good just because no-load voltage is OK, please test that voltage does not drop below 9v when a 300 amp load is applied.

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Oops i should have taken this down. We did exactly what you said. Replaced the starter again and then had the battery load tested and it failed so we bought a new battery too. After spending a couple hours putting it all back we got the dang car to start right up. Thank you!

crwdns2934271:0Sun 19, 2016crwdnd2934271:0 Nicole Krauth crwdne2934271:0

I did this, and my car still won't start, the light bearly come on, acting like it's a dead battery...

crwdns2934271:0Kho 2, 2018crwdnd2934271:0 dustyhernandez99 crwdne2934271:0

I replaced my starter sylnoid and it still click click click. But after a little bit the car starts. Even after the new starter assembly. I'm confused as heck

crwdns2934271:0Kho 13, 2018crwdnd2934271:0 jamesbevins18 crwdne2934271:0

The starter needs quite a bit of electrical power, make sure the battery is fully charged and load tested. Make sure the battery cables are clean and tight at both ends. Make sure the solenoid receives something very close to battery voltage when the key is turned to the start position. If those 3 are true and the battery voltage under load (about 200 amp test load) stays above 9v you should be OK.

If the battery fails a load test, replace it.

If the cables have any corrosion or are loose, clean or replace them as necessary.

If the trigger voltage to the solenoid is dropping, it could be the ign switch, or a safety switch or relay that is sitting between the ign switch and solenoid.

If none of the above, you may have gotten a dud starter... try bench testing it.

In the Jamesbevins18 case, I think ign switch with marginal start contact is quite possible.

Also note that you can kill ign switches pretty quickly by hanging ten pound key rings off of them.

crwdns2934271:0N'w 19, 2018crwdnd2934271:0 Noah Ackerman crwdne2934271:0

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Similar Problem. New stater. checked all cables, seems ok and new battery. At time it start at times its just a click, and does not start or takes a few seconds then starts while i hold the key on — royhla
Oops i should have taken this down. We did exactly what you said. Replaced the starter again and then had the battery load tested and it failed so we bought a new battery too. After spending a couple hours putting it all back we got the dang car to start right up. Thank you! — Nicole Krauth
I did this, and my car still won't start, the light bearly come on, acting like it's a dead battery... — dustyhernandez99
I replaced my starter sylnoid and it still click click click. But after a little bit the car starts. Even after the new starter assembly. I'm confused as heck — jamesbevins18
The starter needs quite a bit of electrical power, make sure the battery is fully charged and load tested. Make sure the battery cables are clean and tight at both ends. Make sure the solenoid receives something very close to battery voltage when the key is turned to the start position. If those 3 are true and the battery voltage under load (about 200 amp test load) stays above 9v you should be OK.

If the battery fails a load test, replace it.

If the cables have any corrosion or are loose, clean or replace them as necessary.

If the trigger voltage to the solenoid is dropping, it could be the ign switch, or a safety switch or relay that is sitting between the ign switch and solenoid.

If none of the above, you may have gotten a dud starter... try bench testing it.

In the Jamesbevins18 case, I think ign switch with marginal start contact is quite possible.

Also note that you can kill ign switches pretty quickly by hanging ten pound key rings off of them. — Noah Ackerman