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2.3GHz, 2.6GHz, or 2.7GHz quad-core Intel Core i7 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.7GHz) with 6MB shared L3 cache.

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Water spillage no backlight, fused fuse?

Hello,

I spilled some water on my Macbook Pro Retina Display 2012 15". I managed to turn it off and dry it for a week in rice. But now when I switched it on, the backlight is dead. If I put a torch right behind the Apple Logo I can see the login screen.

From what I read this means the backlight fuse might be fused. How can I test if this is the case? I'm going to buy a pentalobe screw and a multi tester but how do I know for sure with the multi tester that this is the right case? I'm no capable of changing such a small fuse but I first I'd like to know if my diagnostic is right and then take it to a specialized place to change the fuse.

Thanks!

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Hi,

I very recently bought a 2014 macbook pro retina 15 serial number

C02LPBG2FD56.

I bought it as faulty with no display backlight. The LCD is working as I checked it with a torch through the Apple logo.

I believe it has suffer a small amount of liquid damage as one of the warning indicators is red. One on the other side is still white.

I have tested the F9700 fuse and there is no continuity. For a moment, I thought I had found the fault but I started testing other similar looking components close by the blown fuse. I did not get continuity from some of these other components. Everything looks normal to me but I am no expert.

Bearing in mind that My knowledge at this level, is very hit and miss. Where do I check next after proving the F9700 has blown.

Thanks in advance....ritchy

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Fuse is pin 1 of LCD connector!

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There was no current running through the fuse. I soldered it to bypass it but apparently I &&^&@@ up everything. A saw a little spark in the connector with the LCD.

Did I &&^& up everything?

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There is still image but the lcd connector to the motherboard is a little but burned out

crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0crwdne2934271:0

Did you check for a short to ground on output before doing this? Why would you do this before checking for a short to ground? This is like not looking down before you jump off a chair - are you jumping two feet or off a cliff? LOOK BEFORE YOU LEAP! This was a $400 board, now it is probably a burned pile of junk.

As I said, fuse is pin 1 of the LCD connector. Remove your &&^&@@ up LCD connector, and measure for a short to ground before doing further damage. Multimeter on diode mode, red probe on ground, black probe on backlight output. Your short was inside the LCD connector all along. Remove LCD connector, and since you shorted the fuse you burned out the internal board via for backlight power. Replace LCD connector and run jumper wire from ppvout_s0_lcdbklt end of C9716 to pin 1 of LCD connector, replace solder blob with proper fuse, and replace the LCD cable that you burned in the process. It should be fine. PPBUS_G3H is a resilient rail so you didn't destroy anything beyond repair, it can be shorted to ground without destroying buck converter, it's just water that kills it.

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Okay, so just to be sure I don't &&^& up everything again.

I have to buy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-LCD-LED-LVDS...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LCD-LVDS-Cab...

C9716 is the chip right next to F9700 that I shorted am I right? I jump wire from there to pin 1 and instead of soldering it I add a F9700 fuse there right between the jump wire and pin 1.

Last thing, where can I buy a F9700 fuse?

Thanks for everything zzz

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Yes.

In terms of what cap is what, you need a schematic and a boardview. Find one online so you can troubleshoot properly. I have no patience for taking pictures and screenshots and making arrows to point things out, but I will help you if you can follow along. Make sure the PPVOUT_S0_LCDBKLT rail is not shorted to ground, which means putting multimeter on diode mode, black probe on PPVOUT_S0_LCDBKLT(anywhere on the board this shows up), and red probe on ground(a screwhole). You should get a number over 0.400. If you get 0.000 or 0.080 or 0.007 or some low number it is shorted to ground.

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Cristian, the fuse is reference designator F9700 and it is a #Amp 32Volt fuse in a 603 package. You need to test this fuse with a multimeter for continuity. For the rest of your question you want to check answers like this.

Block Image

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Sure sounds like it. that is the reason why you have that fuse. Most likely you had a short circuit that now messed up the rest of your circuitry. I recommend that you send it to somebody for a proper diagnosis and repair. Lessons to be leaned about bypassing and jumper applications.

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C9716 is a 2.2UF 100V 10% capacitor in a 1210 package.

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Yesterday I spilled diet coke on the upper left side of the keyboard. Shut it down and mopped it up and got it upside down immediately. Hit it with a hair dryer for around 30 minutes and then suspended the machine over a floor vent for our heating system overnight. The computer works fine, but the retina display is messed up. Page are bleeding through. Typing, if left long enough, stays on the screen even after if I close the page. It's dim with dark shadowing on the left. It's usable, but difficult. I'm using a remote screen and everything is perfect. Does it sound like the entire display will need to be replaced, or could a competent repairman fix it for a somewhat lesser fee? I don't want to go down the road to the intersection where Christian finds himself. : )

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