Pretty much comes down to 3 items:
1).Defrost heater
2). Defrost limit switch - Usually a bi-metal switch in series with the heater and shuts it down if it goes over a certain temperature.
3). Defrost timer - The "brains" of the refrigerator. Tells the temperature switch when it is allowed to tell the compressor to run. Takes the temperature switch's control away (every 8, 10, or 12 hours depending on the setup) and tells the defrost heater to work for 20 - 30 minutes (depending on setup). Then gives control back to the temperature switch after the defrost cycle.
Slim chance but, still possible, is an ice bullet in the freon line or a burnt wire.
I don't know how anyone could know which is the problem child without going to where the refrigerator is and testing it. I have over 25 years experience repairing refrigerators. If you are handy with a multimeter and mechanically inclined, it is a repair you could do yourself. The repair place isn't really steering you wrong, in my opinion.
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ABCellars answer sounds good but in the search for anytime similar for my GE side-by-side refrigerator #GSS25XSPABS in the freezer parts section I can only find a Refrigerator Temp Sensor and Defrost Thermostat. Would either of these be another name for a defrost heater, limit switch or timer?
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 CK crwdne2934271:0
Solution. Store your food in a good quality esky that will keep it cool or switch to non perishable food for a day or two-Turn the fridge off and make sure everything is out of the fridge and freezer including ice build up. If possible leave both doors open -take care if you have small children make sure they can't get into the fridge freezer spaces and close the doors-jam something in the space. Check the back to see if there is any dust on anything - vaccum this up-carefully not to break anything. Once the fridge has been off for awhile feel the outside fridge/ freezer walls to see if there are any cold spots-this is ice build up in the walls. Leave fridge defrost until this area becomes neutral-don't be impatient-this will take a day or two. Voila fridge is fixed. Get a fridge thermometer to check your settings when you switch it back on. Humidity is a bugger.
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 canlen crwdne2934271:0
How can the problem be fixed by just letting the refrigerator defrost on its owm for a day or two ???
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Bo Gregory crwdne2934271:0
I agree, Bo. I am now completely defrosting my GE every two weeks. All moisture out, completely dry, two days. Fire it up, and it frosts up in 10 days. Completely blown off compressor, coils, etc in back. A clue might be there is no drainage coming out to the evap pan, so I am suspecting the "defroster heater". The water in the door has never worked because the line freezes up immediately! This was an expensive frig and is only about 6 years old.
crwdns2934271:0crwdnd2934271:0 Jim Penson crwdne2934271:0
Same problem--mine is an HSM25GFTSA, and I started having to defrost it manually about three years after I bought it. I've replaced the defrost heater several times, along with the defrost thermostat and thermisters. No more GEs for me.
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