1.7 GHz dual-core Intel Processor (Turbo Boost up to 2.6 GHz) with 3 MB shared L3 cache

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MacBook Air not charging, turns on, no LED

I am using a third party power adapter I bought off of ebay to charge my Macbook Air. The LED will not turn on and the battery will not charge, however the Macbook otherwise functions as normal.

I have tried everything under the sun to get it to charge again. I have reseated the battery, SMC reset, warmed the charger, and ran Apple diagnostics with no faults.

I strongly suspect it is the charger and I'm anxiously waiting for a friend to get back from vacation to lend me his.

A bit of history, before the this happened, my original Apple official charger had a stress break at the T-connector. As a result, I don't believe the grounding wires were making contact. I suspect this could have damaged something.

Here's my current Power readout. If anyone has this happen to them, I want to know what I have to replace before I go out and buy a new battery, charger, etc. If it is the logic board I am tempted just to sell it AS-IS.

Battery Information:

Model Information:

Serial Number: [removed]

Manufacturer: SMP

Device Name: bq20z451

Pack Lot Code: 0

PCB Lot Code: 0

Firmware Version: 406

Hardware Revision: 000a

Cell Revision: 175

Charge Information:

Charge Remaining (mAh): 0

Fully Charged: No

Charging: No

Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4079

Health Information:

Cycle Count: 542

Condition: Normal

Battery Installed: Yes

Amperage (mA): 0

Voltage (mV): 5894

System Power Settings:

AC Power:

System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Wake on AC Change: No

Wake on Clamshell Open: Yes

Wake on LAN: Yes

AutoPowerOff Delay: 14400

AutoPowerOff Enabled: 1

Current Power Source: Yes

DarkWakeBackgroundTasks: 1

Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes

PrioritizeNetworkReachabilityOverSleep: 0

Standby Delay: 4200

Standby Enabled: 1

Battery Power:

System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10

Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 2

Wake on AC Change: No

Wake on Clamshell Open: Yes

AutoPowerOff Delay: 14400

AutoPowerOff Enabled: 1

DarkWakeBackgroundTasks: 0

Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes

Reduce Brightness: Yes

Standby Delay: 4200

Standby Enabled: 1

Hardware Configuration:

UPS Installed: No

'''AC Charger Information:

Connected: Yes

ID: 0x0000

Revision: 0x0000

Family: 0x0000

Serial Number: 0x00000000

Charging: No'''

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First I would download Coconut Battery, because it will present you the battery info in a more readable fashion. The key indicator to look for is "current capacity", because that's what your battery has left of the original capacity (assuming the battery is not simply dead or defective). Your load cycles are high, but that doesn't mean it's not still a good battery.

Did the original AC adapter stop working? Has the 3rd party AC adapter never worked? I wouldn't jump the gun and start buying parts, especially if you've only seen this behavior with the current AC adapter. Try flipping the connector over -- sometimes fidgeting with it a little makes a difference. Also, if there is something in the connector, like a staple, that can cause problems. Sometimes an AC adapter can have a "bad charge", and disconnecting it from the wall, laptop, and extension cable and letting it sit overnight can cause the light on the AC to come back.

But in any case, you're not going to know much until you have a light on the AC. If you have an Apple store in your area you can take it in and connect it to an OEM AC and hopefully you'll find out that everything is fine and you just need a new one.


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I believe this should give a similar readout to Coconut Battery. I'd be surprised at this point if it was the battery because everything seems, well, normal about it.

And yes, the original AC adapter did stop working all together. I had the stressed area held in place with bit of solder and electrical tape but it came loose in my back pack and then stopped working altogether. It's too close to the metal T-connector to re-attach.

The replacement AC adapter will produce a green LED if I press down on all pins with a conductive pad (I noticed this when cleaning it with alcohol and had forgot to unplug it).

It really just seems like the adapter and battery are not communicating. I did not remove the logic board, but from close inspection from just the underside view there did not appear to be any corrosion or burnt areas.

The red flag for me is the lack of any sort of information about the charger in the system profiler.


Yeah, the battery looks fine, and even if it was bad it shouldn't stop the AC adapter from showing a light. You're at a point where you don't have any known-good parts, so it's impossible to say anything definitive about anything. I would really go to an Apple store and ask them to try an OEM AC on it -- that will tell you really quick whether it's your 3rd party AC or the laptop. If it is the laptop, and it doesn't have liquid damage, a 2012 is probably still eligible for a $300 depot repair/replacement from Apple, and that would probably be a better deal for you than selling it and buying another. Before doing the depot repair I would probably remove the DC board and let it sit disconnected for an hour, and then re-connect and see if that makes a difference (similar to letting the AC adapter sit without power like I mentioned above, the DC board can "reset" itself when allowed to discharge as well). But test it with an AC adapter that you know is working -- that's the obvious next step.


There are no Apple stores in my area (Atlantic Canada). I am very tempted to dig deeper, but voiding the warranty seems like it would be quite easy to do.

You are right in saying that 300$ is definitely a much better option.

For future reference if a known to be working charging does NOT work, then that would rule out the charger and leaves the logic board and battery. Is there a diagnostic method to rule out the battery?


Yes, you can prove your computer is fine (or isn't) by connecting a known-good battery (one that you have SEEN working, not one that SHOULD work) and verifying that it works in your laptop. And you can prove your battery works (or doesn't) by connecting it to a known-good MacBook Air and verifying that it charges in that laptop. These are the ways to absolutely prove the situation one way or another. Unfortunately they require having the right spare parts, but there's really no other way around it. But in your case the battery issue is secondary -- for now you just need a known-good AC adapter, which will tell you whether or not your computer has a problem. Until you know that, it's not worth messing with the battery, because a battery does not cause the lack of a light on an AC adapter.


Did you ever find out what was wrong? I have the exact same issue what needs replaced?




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