Dead spot after digitizer replacement?

I agree w/ one of the other posters. You probably had a bad digitizer on this, unless of course, one of the input connectors for the digitizer got damaged during the teardown, when you were removing the old digitizer connectors. If that's the case, soldering a new connector (whichever is broken) onto the board will work, but those are hard to find, and that's a particularly hard job to do.

I have a similar issue after digitizer replacement. When the screen/iPad gets hot (i.e. after gaming use especially), the top and bottom of the iPad, about an inch or so, become very difficult to press. If I hold the iPad in hands though and squeeze slightly, (pressing left and right edges toward each other slightly as I type with thumbs in landscape mode) I can get it to press the Q A Z and "ABC" buttons. It's inconsistent, but It seems that re-seating the digitizer, it sometimes fixes it temporarily. In home button to left configuration, the issue is with the four left most buttons, backspace, right shift, Hide keyboard. It's just the left nd right inch while In landscape mode. Also note I expect it's the same while in portrait mode but in that configuration it would be the top and bottom inch of the tablet that do not work) The sides of the tablet, aside from the corners, (the top and bottom while In landscape mode) work great.

Just to be crystal clear, the issue is ONLY one inch below the front facing camera, and one inch above the home button, and only SOMETIMES, but heat seems to cause it to worsen substantially. What's even more odd, is turning screen on and off for a second seems to cause some sort of recalibration and it will function fine for a moment before acting up again. Does this point to the digitizer, an electrical short somewhere ( I know electrical short cases ghosting, which was issue with my first replacement digitizer), or something else?

I am very knowledgable about tablets and electronics in general, and have replaced a dozen screens on iPads alone, But this has me stumped. Who has knowledge of the internal workings of the calibration of the screen? Clearly cycling the power on the LCd by tapping power to lock it causes some sort of calibration to take place. Anyone who is an expert on the iPad air (a1475) with thoughts here? I've got tons of theories, but need something I can confirm using the scientific method, not "replace the digitizer again and hope" responses. Any educated hunches here are appreciated.

Finally, Sorry for hijacking the question, but this is the thread that came up when I searched for my problem specifically, so I assume others will find this page also that are experiencing the same issue.

Thanks,

Michael

Product Specifications:

-A1475 revision 1

-JB via pangu 8.1.2 (too lazy to go to ios9 right now)

-Tablet is out of warranty due to time since purchased.

This sort of thing just happened to me on an iPad 4 digitizer swap. I know the digitizer worked beautifully—right up

until the final reassembly. I tested it numerous times by dragging an icon all over the screen. And it was removed from a well-working iPad (that was on someone else’s account whom I can’t reach, so its usefulness was limited.) The digitizer worked well before removal, after motherboard swap…everything except the final step of sealing it up.

I took it back apart and re-seated the cable, but no good.

So I’m very interested to

any answers to Michael’s question, or the original. The most likely thing I can come up with is a very slightly damaged cable. I’ll test it with the broken glass digitizer next, if I can do so safely. It’s taped together and essentially intact. For that matter, I can also test it in the other iPad, to see whether I’ve caused a digitizer or motherboard problem…

Its a bad quality digitizer buy this one iPad Air Screen Digitizer and thats the answer to your problem.