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Why does my 1988 Toyota keep overheating?

Changed thermostat , hoses, flushed out radiator, changed oil.

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kim, if it is cooling related, the only real thing left to do would be to replace the water pump. Make sure that you have no other sinister problems that could cause it, like a cracked head etc.

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Check the hose that goes from just under the radiator cap to the coolant reservoir. It is a closed system and when that hose gets old it can collapse closed causing the engine to overheat. I replaced everything from water pump, temp sensor (swapped with an analog gauge which came with a sensor), rad x2, fan clutch, then fan (tried electric as well), unhooked and bypassed heater core (to make sure heater core wasn't possibly clogged), thermostat, and thoroughly went through the engine. That is when I barely noticed the hose pinched, I replaced it 2 years ago then drove it to Texas and back to Montana, My 30 yr ol’ 22RE D.D. and trail rig hasn't overheated since. Old post but so many still on the roads and trails, thought I'd add another possible solution. Long live the Yota pickups and T4

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sometimes thermostats are f'd up from factory . you can check it by taking it out and putting it in a pot of hot water on the stove. if it opens then its probably good.

also you have to make sure that it is going in the right direction with the spring side facing into the block.

also flushing out the radiator is good but did you check if you were getting flow through to begin with?

also a lower temp thermostat will do the trick sometimes, as it will open sooner and let the coolant through- thus keeping it cooler. however, if you live in a cold climate you would have to change out the 'stat seasonally.

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Are we sure it's overheating? You could possibly have a bad temperature sending unit. use an ohm meter, the sending unit should read from 0-5 volts, 0 at cold, 5v is overheat. so if that motor is barely warm but it's showing 5 volts the sensors bad. If it's actually running like it's overheating, and your sure it is, try retarding the timing if it seems like it's worse, then advance the timing. Easy to do, losen the holddown clamp on the distributor, enough so you can turn the distributor counter clockwise and clockwise while it's running. if the timing is too advanced it causes a lean condition, which will overheat it. as you turn the distributor back and forth, one way will cause engine speed to increase, the other will slow it down. Find a spot where the idle is reasonable around 5-700rpm tight the distributor and try it. I would say use a timing light, but since I also experienced this problem on mine, when it was timed according to spec it would run hardly, probably because the distributor was a tooth off, the points were bad, or the timing belt jumped a notch. hope this helps

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One other thing, if that motor has high miles on it, the piston rings are bad meaning that engine is working as hard as it can with very little compression. Time for a rebuild.

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kim crwdns2934231:0crwdne2934231:0
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